Mike G
Petrified Pine
the bear":d15gejgr said:
Scrubbing brush and water, and 5 minutes of effort. No problem at all.
Yeah, from expecting this to take 6 or even 7 days, it looks like it will be done in 4 if I can keep ahead of him with scaffolding.
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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Mike's ext'n & renovation (solar panels)
- Thread starter Mike G
- Start date
Scrubbing brush and water, and 5 minutes of effort. No problem at all.
Yeah, from expecting this to take 6 or even 7 days, it looks like it will be done in 4 if I can keep ahead of him with scaffolding.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Halo Jones":dlk8l35l said:No pictures for me on my phone or computer
(all through chrome)
I've posted these in exactly the same way as all of the previous 3 years worth. If you can't make it work, drop one of the mods a PM.
Tusses
Old Oak
I bet you must be excited like a big kiddy Mike !
Such a huge difference happening so quickly
Such a huge difference happening so quickly
Malc2098
Sequoia
Mike G":c5lfg8f9 said:
Yes, you're right there, Mike, but some of the existing mill buildings, including the school, still survive. He came down to Devon after the Luddites smashed his machinery up north somewhere. He started again down here, where water power was plentiful and the mill has been here ever since. It had a fire and was rebuilt as a bloody great red-brick thing in the 60s.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Heathcoat
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Tusses":avbj4bp6 said:I bet you must be excited like a big kiddy Mike !
Such a huge difference happening so quickly
Yes, to both, although "knackered" is more to the fore than "excited" at the moment.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Finished!!
The whole building is done in only 4 days, some 4 days less than I'd allowed for, using 61 bags of lime (19 less than estimated). My hands are ruined, but other than that, I am delighted. So delighted that I'm going to have a few days off. Anyway............photos:
The grey line below the windows in the last photo is lead flashing, built in now in the hope that we get permission in due course for a conservatory. It's going to look pretty silly if we don't!
The whole building is done in only 4 days, some 4 days less than I'd allowed for, using 61 bags of lime (19 less than estimated). My hands are ruined, but other than that, I am delighted. So delighted that I'm going to have a few days off. Anyway............photos:
The grey line below the windows in the last photo is lead flashing, built in now in the hope that we get permission in due course for a conservatory. It's going to look pretty silly if we don't!
Tusses
Old Oak
Looks great in the photos Mike .. bet it's pretty special up close and personal too !
Well done. To both of you.
Will tickets be on sale soon?
Will tickets be on sale soon?
Absolutely beautiful Mike! :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:
Cheers
Mark
Cheers
Mark
Rod
Old Oak
The Suffolk Whitehouse!
Very very nice.
Rod
Very very nice.
Rod
Phil
Old Oak
Wow, Mike, Wow !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:text-bravo:
Looks fantastic. Enjoy the off days, relax with a couple of frosties.
Phil
:text-bravo:
Looks fantastic. Enjoy the off days, relax with a couple of frosties.
Phil
ScotlandtheDave
New Shoots
Phil":1i4t6o4p said:
A couple- he’s earned a whole bowl’s worth!
[emoji12]
MattS
Nordic Pine
Stunning work, amazing you managed to find a plasterer who could keep up with your work rate :lol:
That conservatory on the back, I assume it will be something equally special built by you rather than bought in?
That conservatory on the back, I assume it will be something equally special built by you rather than bought in?
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Attention turns temporarily to the porch roof. Here is the junction between the roof and the render, prior to starting work:
I cut some tiles in thirds, lengthways, and mixed up some of the lime render stuff, then did this:
This is a really old traditional detail, done to keep water out of the junction, but you may remember from some while back that I had also done lead soakers up this roof/ wall joint, so this is something of a belt-and-braces approach. I don't think the modern lead cover-flashing with render drip bead looks any good on a period property, so I've done it this way instead. It has the bonus of kicking the dropping water a few inches away from the wall, so it will all go into the gutter without the need for a bodged in bit of lead.
Note in the last photo that I part-tiled the northern roof of the porch. This was to allow access to do the ridge. This is the other side at the same stage:
The next task was the verges and the ridge, so after mixing up some strong mortar and cutting some half-tiles, I got on with it, bedding each tile up the verge in mortar:
Then I did the ridge, pointed up the verge, and tiled the canopy over the door. With shorter days, this was quite a full day, finishing by braille:
I cut some tiles in thirds, lengthways, and mixed up some of the lime render stuff, then did this:
This is a really old traditional detail, done to keep water out of the junction, but you may remember from some while back that I had also done lead soakers up this roof/ wall joint, so this is something of a belt-and-braces approach. I don't think the modern lead cover-flashing with render drip bead looks any good on a period property, so I've done it this way instead. It has the bonus of kicking the dropping water a few inches away from the wall, so it will all go into the gutter without the need for a bodged in bit of lead.
Note in the last photo that I part-tiled the northern roof of the porch. This was to allow access to do the ridge. This is the other side at the same stage:
The next task was the verges and the ridge, so after mixing up some strong mortar and cutting some half-tiles, I got on with it, bedding each tile up the verge in mortar:
Then I did the ridge, pointed up the verge, and tiled the canopy over the door. With shorter days, this was quite a full day, finishing by braille:
Rod
Old Oak
Yes looks very nice
Rod
Rod
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Time to start work on the rendering of the porch. For a start, all of the Savolit panels were sitting loose in rebates, deliberately, because I wanted to do a little lead detail at the bottom. Here's the lead:
And here is the bottom of a panel:
The panel at the bottom sits in front of an upstand, designed to have the lead between the two. It's easier to show a photo than explain. Inside first, then outside:
Here is a view into the side rebate, with the board fixed back properly in position. This shows the strategy with these render panels, which is to allow for movement and shrinkage in the oak framing. The render will squeeze into the rest of the rebate, meaning that even if the oak frame shrinks considerably there will be no path into the structure for water (or light, for that matter):
I taped up the oak with Duck tape because masking tape is porous enough that it doesn't prevent the lime from immediately discolouring the oak. There is an immediate and dramatic reaction between lime render (and cement, too) and green oak, leading to permanent discolouration. Anyway, I was now ready for render:
The render depth is about 30mm here, which is a lot. So, I am going to build it up in two layers. Here is the first coat, called a scratch coats because it gets scratched to form a key for the second coat:
Oh, and as a fun little aside, you know how it is when you knock something together quickly as a temporary measure just to get yourself out of an immediate problem? Well, those things, in my experience, usually hang around for at least 30 years. Here is my plasterer's hawk, made decades ago for 5 minutes of plastering, and still going strong (= as badly as ever):
And here is the bottom of a panel:
The panel at the bottom sits in front of an upstand, designed to have the lead between the two. It's easier to show a photo than explain. Inside first, then outside:
Here is a view into the side rebate, with the board fixed back properly in position. This shows the strategy with these render panels, which is to allow for movement and shrinkage in the oak framing. The render will squeeze into the rest of the rebate, meaning that even if the oak frame shrinks considerably there will be no path into the structure for water (or light, for that matter):
I taped up the oak with Duck tape because masking tape is porous enough that it doesn't prevent the lime from immediately discolouring the oak. There is an immediate and dramatic reaction between lime render (and cement, too) and green oak, leading to permanent discolouration. Anyway, I was now ready for render:
The render depth is about 30mm here, which is a lot. So, I am going to build it up in two layers. Here is the first coat, called a scratch coats because it gets scratched to form a key for the second coat:
Oh, and as a fun little aside, you know how it is when you knock something together quickly as a temporary measure just to get yourself out of an immediate problem? Well, those things, in my experience, usually hang around for at least 30 years. Here is my plasterer's hawk, made decades ago for 5 minutes of plastering, and still going strong (= as badly as ever):
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
I have a 'temporary' home made hawk somewhere [emoji6]
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Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Stargazer
New Shoots
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2014
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- 189
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- Location
- West Oxfordshire
- Name
- Ian L.
- LOCATION
- West Oxfordshire
Jimmy Mack":l9rplmj7 said:
Ditto
(In fact it is probably the one made by my father when he was helping me plastering on my very first house)
Stargazer":dy1uyruh said:
Ditto that. Although I have never really plastered, just filled a few holes.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
The first three panels consumed an awful lot of render, but more importantly, took two coats and a long time to dry. I decided to pack out the Savolit board with another sheet so that I could finish with a single coat of render, and that coat would go off relatively quickly. So, I glued & screwed some board on like this:
This still gave room for squeezing render into the rebate. Then it was just a question of applying the stuff and troweling it up at the appropriate time, then sponging it. Half a day's work, then a few hours doing other things before coming back to do the sponging:
Tape on, above, then tape off:
You'll note that I've also done the fillet up the canopy roof. That gets cleaned up tomorrow.
This still gave room for squeezing render into the rebate. Then it was just a question of applying the stuff and troweling it up at the appropriate time, then sponging it. Half a day's work, then a few hours doing other things before coming back to do the sponging:
Tape on, above, then tape off:
You'll note that I've also done the fillet up the canopy roof. That gets cleaned up tomorrow.
What did you do about those misaligned pegs in the apex of the porch?
Looks excellent of course but I reckon it will look even better when it has weathered a little.
Looks excellent of course but I reckon it will look even better when it has weathered a little.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Those tiles are gorgeous!
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Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Mike G":3l5czt6l said:
I am not surprised (that no-one else has noticed).
fiveeyes
Sapling
Mike..this render/plaster that you are putting on, is this some sort of portland cement mixture? And I am assuming that it is the same stuff on the roof ridge, would that be so? Our plaster would not have chance outdoors. Your render must be tough! Looking good!
bill
bill
Mike G
Petrified Pine
No, Bill, it isn't cement based. It is lime-based. It is the modern version of the ancient lime/ chalk/ hair render which has been used on the outside and inside of buildings for millennia. Cement-based render is what destroyed this house to the point of near collapse in the first place, in a matter of only 40 years. Cement renders are impervious to moisture, and thus wrap the house in an external vapour barrier. Imagine putting the house inside a giant plastic bag, but having sources of heat and moisture inside the house. The warm moist air inside meets a cold impermeable surface at the inside face of the render, where it condenses, and the water runs down and sits on the sole plate, with no way out. Naturally, the constantly-wet sole plate rots. Further, cement render is rock solid. The frame it surrounds is timber and flexible (and rotting!). This means cracks are inevitable, which is another source of water into the structure.
Lime render, on the other hand, is flexible, and "breathable", which is a shorthand way of saying that it is vapour permeable. It allows moisture through it in the form of vapour, whilst keeping out water droplets (like Gortex). When taking off some old bits of render, larger chunks of it felt somewhat like a thick carpet: you could bend and flex it without it breaking.
This lime render, as per the original, has no sand in it. It was mixed with chalk. Sand almost always has a clay content, and clay shrinks, so even a lime render made with sand is likely to crack or craze somewhat. Lots of renovations in the last 30 years have used lime render, thinking they were doing the right thing, but those renders used sand. Apart from the mortar in the bottom 2 or 3 courses of brick, in the ground, this house was built without any sand. Both the mortar and all the plaster/ render were mixed with chalk. The only difference between that old stuff and the render I used is that the hair element has been replaced with a modern poly-something fibre (hair is really difficult to source, apparently, and Chinese goat hair is no more authentic than poly-something). Further, hair does rot in the end. I guess the other slight difference is that the machine mixing and grading, and the lab-controlled consistency of ingredients means that the modern lime/ chalk render is likely to be of a much more consistent mix than the original, which would have been mixed by hand on site.
As for the ridge.......no, I did those in a strong white cement/ sand mortar (same as the brickwork, but twice as strong).
Lime render, on the other hand, is flexible, and "breathable", which is a shorthand way of saying that it is vapour permeable. It allows moisture through it in the form of vapour, whilst keeping out water droplets (like Gortex). When taking off some old bits of render, larger chunks of it felt somewhat like a thick carpet: you could bend and flex it without it breaking.
This lime render, as per the original, has no sand in it. It was mixed with chalk. Sand almost always has a clay content, and clay shrinks, so even a lime render made with sand is likely to crack or craze somewhat. Lots of renovations in the last 30 years have used lime render, thinking they were doing the right thing, but those renders used sand. Apart from the mortar in the bottom 2 or 3 courses of brick, in the ground, this house was built without any sand. Both the mortar and all the plaster/ render were mixed with chalk. The only difference between that old stuff and the render I used is that the hair element has been replaced with a modern poly-something fibre (hair is really difficult to source, apparently, and Chinese goat hair is no more authentic than poly-something). Further, hair does rot in the end. I guess the other slight difference is that the machine mixing and grading, and the lab-controlled consistency of ingredients means that the modern lime/ chalk render is likely to be of a much more consistent mix than the original, which would have been mixed by hand on site.
As for the ridge.......no, I did those in a strong white cement/ sand mortar (same as the brickwork, but twice as strong).