• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Mike's ext'n & renovation (solar panels)

tabs":35c7ug6g said:
...you must have played Rugby League in your youth!...
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Haha, almost. He did spend a lot of time catching balls. Would love to have seen Mike playing Rugby League, he's just the right build for it...! ;)

Cheers
Mark
 
In the sense that an antelope is just the right build for fighting with a lion!!
 
tabs":1ra4ektz said:
Where did you pick up your bricky skills?
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Like everything, I am entirely self-taught. It would be so much better if I knew what I was doing :D
 
Concerning your medical condition(s), a reply is of course unnecessary: but I must say that I am quite impressed. For a one man show you have a tenacity to be envied. Hat off. :obscene-drinkingcheers: RATS? Disgusting for sure. If that was at my home I would be taking careful aim with my 12 ga! Have spent a bit of time on Google translating some of the terminology used on different sides of the pond.'Tis good tho' always room for more knowledge eh'. Damn long post for me..carry on 5
 
Getting there!

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The dressing came off today. I still can't do much with the hand, but things are going well and I hope to resume light duties in 10 days or so.
 
They can only guess, Mark, but having a hard ball thud into your hands at high speed repeatedly for decades was probably a contributory factor. I saw a hand specialist just before I retired who told me that there was lots of damage that I was just going to have to grit my teeth over as I got older.
 
It also runs in families both my sister and I suffer from it. She has had the operations but my GP doesn't consider mine to be bad enough though it has stopped me bike riding ( I get pins and needles when gripping or holding things for any length of time).
Anyway more serious health issues took over that priority - I'll have another go at him sometime?

Mine was definitely not caused by playing cricket [emoji3]

Get well soon

Rod
 
Mike G":39uo3oyo said:
They can only guess, Mark, but having a hard ball thud into your hands at high speed repeatedly for decades was probably a contributory factor. I saw a hand specialist just before I retired who told me that there was lots of damage that I was just going to have to grit my teeth over as I got older.
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I can imagine it's a big factor. Have you seen Ian Healy's left hand? Fingers bent into the shape of a ball!

And Lord only knows what this fella was doing but I think his technique must have been somewhat flawed…

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Cheers
Mark
 
Lovely guy, Ian Healy. For an Aussie, I mean :)

His hands weren't that bad last time I played against him. He must have got a few wrong at the end of his career. His technique was pretty good, too, so you wouldn't expect hands like that.
 
Finally, I am back to work on the house. It feels like I've been away forever.

I had planned that my first job back would be making window boards (generally known as cills, but they aren't. Those are on the outside), but my usual timber merchants are having a few problems this week and so I can't get the oak until next Tuesday. So, I though I would tackle the back door instead. I needed a job which didn't involve much lifting, or the using of much in the way of tools with my right hand, which still isn't special although improving rapidly.

I decided to make my own back door so as to get a very well insulated one without having to spend £500 or so. The timber I wanted at the supplier wasn't good enough, so I decided to laminate rather than make it out of one solid piece. Ex 100 x 38 (4" x 1'1/2") PAR stock:

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Being laminated, I had the chance to cut the mortices in an unusual way, so decided not to have through-tenons. I just made up a joint in the workshop:

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Routed it out roughly:

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The cleaned it up with a chisel. Now, that wasn't easy, as it hurt my hand. I did some of it left handed:

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I thought it might be sensible to have a template to help with the tenons:

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Then it was simply a case of spreading a whole lot of glue, and doing a bit of clamping:

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It's going to be a chunky door!!

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This brings with it some design problems, as it will be deeper than the rebate in the door frame. So, I will do something you see on the Continent a bit, and rebate the outside face of the door.

I spent a bit of time marking out the patio, paths, and some tree locations in the garden:

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We're getting close to the time when I'll be reducing the levels around the site, which has to be done before the drainage is done. There's quite a bit of thought going into trying to make the land drains work, and the rainwater pipes from the roof, but more of that later. I then spent 3 or 4 hours tidying up and trimming excess foam inside in the extension. A very gentle start back into the routine.
 
Thanks Erich! Not half as bad for you as it was for me :)
 
Good to see that you are recovered enough to get back in the workshop!

Are the yellow marks the line of a path from the patio to the workshop?

Ian
 
Yes, Ian, they're battens marking out the centreline. This is important because I will be running an electric cable, a phone line, and a water pipe underneath the path, so we'll need a trench when the digger comes.
 
No. They did tell me to massage the wound as much as possible, and to use vitamin E cream to reduce the size of the scar. I haven't bothered with the latter.
 
Best stuff for scars is bio oil. My son (14 now) was born with a huge birth mark on his face. Chelsea and Westminster hospital carried out several operations to remove it leaving him with scars. We religiously massaged his scars with bio oil when he was a baby . Now you can hardly see a scar. I also used it when I tried to hack one of my fingers off lol. After surgery I used the oil everyday and the scars on my finger went. It's not just a purely cosmetic thing as I'm not bothered having a scar on my finger but my finger and whole hand are probably a lot more flexible than they would've been without the massaging
 
It's not the oil doing anything, it is the massage. You could use butter or used engine oil as a lubricant and achieve the same effect (although the stains might take a while to wash out of your clothes! :) )
 
Both my wife and youngest have recently undergone surgery, both in tertiary hospitals ie considerable specialisation. Both were advised to massage with bio oil or Vaseline or indeed any non perfumed moisturiser. Apparently scar tissue is fibrous and its the gentle massage that helps break down the fibres, rendering the area more pliable and less visible. They've recommended doing that for up to a year for my Missus.
 
As a post script to that, I had my appendix out when I was 40 and being incredibly manly "didn't" massage with anything. Now the scar is as hard as iron!!

(But my manhood is entirely intact of course)
 
First job was to take all the clamps off and clean up the squeezed out glue. I sighted both the long members. One was slightly bowed, which is a pity but not a huge issue. More importantly, neither were twisted. Here are my winding sticks in use:

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Cutting the tenons in the workshop is an easy job. The shoulders on the radial arm circular saw with a stop, and the faces on the bandsaw. Clean up with a block plane, and relieve the edges:

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Dry fit:

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Whilst it was all laid out dry (without glue), I used the smaller router to do some in-situ rebates:

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The deeper one needed two passes. I then cleaned up the corners with a chisel. Not fun with my hand:

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Next, I had to work out the rebates on the outer edge of the outside face. I played with some scrap. The first shows how a normal thickness door normally sits within the frame, and the second shows what I am doing:

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The outer face of the door will be flush with the outer face of the frame, which is a bit unorthodox. I'm aiming for a 5 or 6mm gap all round, with an arris.

Having worked out the rebate, it was off to the big router table with the 1/2" router. For those who haven't seen it before, here it is:

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And raised for access to the router, and the adjustment frame:

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Now, cutting big rebates with a straight cutter and a small diameter extract hose is a mug's game. But I had little choice. I was constantly stopping to clear blockages, and so a simple rebate all around the door took a couple of hours. There aren't many times when I wish I had a table saw, but these sorts of rebates are always the exception.

The bottom of the door requires an even bigger rebate because of a weather bar and seal in the cill of the door frame. The only way to tackle it was with the hand held circular saw, and in a moment of sheer stupidity, I cut to the wrong side of the line:

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Luckily, I had some 3-ish mm ply which fitted the kerf nicely:

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Enabling me to finally do the frame clue-up:

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Glue-ups like this are one of the very good reasons why you take extra care to get the workshop floor flat and level, and put a power-float finish on it. :)
 
Mike G":2afo2i2a said:
It's not the oil doing anything, it is the massage. You could use butter or used engine oil as a lubricant and achieve the same effect (although the stains might take a while to wash out of your clothes! :) )
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NO it is the oil plus the massage. Look up bio oil it's highly recommend by plastic surgeons.


Another thing my son had was special gel plasters that if I remember rightly had silicone in them. These really helped too.
 
Is there a mechanical advantage to sloping the base of the tenon like that? I have made stepped tenons before for the rails/leg joints on a table but I am struggling to see the reason why and slope like that would help.
 
I only do it to help prevent any potential twist, Andy. It means the entire width of the top and bottom rails are restrained. Obviously there is no guts there to the end grain of the verticals, so a reduced tenon width makes sense (to me anyway!). But don't think I know anything special............I'm just making this stuff up as I go along. Really. There are probably much better ways of doing that joint.
 
I always enjoy taking clamps off and finally having a "thing" rather than a whole lot of bits. There wasn't an awful lot of cleaning up to do, but there were the horns to cut off, and rebates to extend, arrises to do, and so on. The bottom edge of the door is nearest the camera:

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Now, the secret ingredient:

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A sheet of 6mm W&BP ply, glued all round and tacked in the rebate. This door with never rack:

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Next job was the ex 12mm t&g matching. This finishes at 9mm, and this is what depth is left of the rebate. Now, this thin stuff has a tendency to curl, so I usually put a couple of relieving cuts along the back:

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T&G complete. Given that this is the outside of the door, if there is any movement of the matching it will be expansion, so I left a couple of mm gap at each board junction, and of course only glued and pinned at one side:

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I then laid a couple of courses of bricks and fitted the frame:

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After stuffing about for hours previously with rebates, I knew that this next little job would require a different approach. DaveL of this parish has a nice table saw, and after he cleared a path to it I cut these:

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They will form the glazing surround in the door:

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I then took a change of direction, and after spending half a day at a quality local timber merchant came back with some wonderful QB2 (second/ character grade) oak waney edged boards about 27mm thick to finish down to 25mm.

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How much does a fancy saw guide cost?

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I really annoy myself sometimes. This detail bugged me for hours. All the time I spent planing, sanding & scraping those big wide oak boards, I was thinking about this detail:

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It's the end of the window board, where it overhangs the window reveal. I worried about rounding over or just taking an arris. I worried about what radius curve to put on the end. I ummed and ahhed aabout the length of the overhang (which meant taking a stab at the depth of the plaster. One decision that was easy was that I am going to round-over the vertical plaster junction between the wall and the reveals of the windows. I can't do the top because of the concrete lintels, but the sides will work nicely to soften up the look. So, that little 45 degree cut on the window board* is to account for what I will slice off the blockwork underneath the plaster curve.

* Most people know them as cills (or even sills! :) ). However, strictly, cills are on the outside of the window, and the shelf on the inside is known as a window board.
 
The oak is fantastic, although I would have preferred more in the way of knots etc. They keep the QB3 grade for themselves for really characterful flooring. I'm doing a few small floors in this oak, so having a source for 14" wide floorboards is great. Not too pricey, either.

You're right about the insulation in the door: there'll be 40mm of Celotex on the other side of the ply once I have bought it.
 
Mike - I might be missing something here, but isn't that going to be awfully flimsy/light for an external door? Or are you cladding the back in something substantial over the celotex? I have used loads of that 12mm cladding and it wouldn't be my first choice for the external skin of a door - as you say, warps like crazy (if not already cupped off the shelf) and expands and contracts excessively. If as you say you have left a 1-2mm expansion gap between each board how will this be protected from rain / water ingress as it is the external face? I would be interested to see how this fares with time. I do like the look of the door externally however, but for me using something more substantial like T+G floorboards would have been the route I went down.

Steve
 
The gap between the boards isn't really a gap: it is filled with the tongue. Directly behind the boards is a sheet of ply. I'll bet my sheet of 6mm ply against your t&g floorboards :). There will then be a sheet of celotex foamed into place, and finally an inner skin of t&g matching. The door is on the north wall of the house, so will never get any direct sun, thus warping and cupping are going to be less of an issue.
 
Having spent yesterday cutting out and sanding all the window boards, the first job today was to get a coat of Osmo Poly X on them. Following advice from the supplier, I used small piece of fine abrasive pad to rub it in very thinly in circles, and another piece to wipe up any excess in the direction of the grain. It was quick, easy, and virtually odourless:

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Note the relieving cuts to the underside of the boards, there to help prevent any cupping/ curling.

Whilst that coat was drying, I went around all of the window reveals with an angle grinder, converting this:

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To this:

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It was the filthiest job imaginable. I could barely see through the dust to control what I was doing. I had to leave my clothes at the door, and have a lunchtime bath.

Next job was to fit the insulation in the door. Before:

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After:

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I then went back to do a final coat of Osmo on the cills, including a coat on the underside. I'm always nervous of having timber finished on one side only.
 
I'm currently building a shed for our friends nearby and will have to make a door. think the outside will look like yours but that is where the similarity ends :)

They also want the shed to look a bit different so I'm stealing your sprockets idea to give the roof a feature on one side. These will only be made from softwood 6 x 2 material not oak.

No pictures and there will not be a thread for it as its not mine. Not to your shed design either but all the wood is clear of the ground and DPC off the concrete base so it should last.

Still in awe of your project. A shed seems a lot of work to me at the moment :)
 
Wizard9999":2se6z21q said:
Mike G":2se6z21q said:
I then went back to do a final coat of Osmo on the cills
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I thought you were working on the window boards, not the cills Mike? :lol:

Terry.
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:D Good spot!
 
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