Malc2098":1a23slos said:
Very
-
Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Mike's ext'n & renovation (solar panels)
- Thread starter Mike G
- Start date
Very
Very nice mate, and I feel ashamed at the speed you work vs my feeble efforts!
Phil
Old Oak
TrimTheKing":sonkmr63 said:
Yes, feel the same.
Mike nice work. :eusa-clap:
You make it look so easy that a person can get all inspirational and tackle a project.
I am not sure where you find the time to do a write up and fotos.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I tried really hard to complete these two pieces of furniture and post about it this weekend. You'll have to read to the end to see whether I made it or not. We left it last weekend with me just starting the bookshelves for the unit over the manifold.....
My first job was to run a rebate down the scribed back edge of the RH vertical. The astute amongst you will notice that the setting of my router table couldn't possibly produce the rebate as shown, but I had half-packed away the table when I remembered to take a photo:
This is the table folded away (router permanently attached):
That was the last thing I needed to do to before doing the jointing for the shelves. Now, remember that this shelf unit is over the underfloor heating manifold, and covers the flow and return to the boiler. It is going to get seriously heated up. I am therefore naturally concerned about wood movement, even with dried timber, so I decided to do the shelf supports with a sliding dovetail joint. The first job was to plane up a saw guide at the appropriate angle, following the template I made last weekend:
Stupidly, I only took a photo of it in situ from the back, but it was child's play to run a tenon saw along the sloped face:
Note the knots drilled ready for filling.
Having cut the 4 stopped dovetail housings in the uprights, I marked the shoulder positions on the shelves, taken from the top piece:
It's a doddle cutting the male compared with the female, and then I simply shaped the front of the shelves:
Having dry fitted everything together, I offered it up into position to mark up any clashes with the pipes, and to mark any feet adjustment necessary for horizontality (that's a word, isn't it?):
With everything fitting OK, back in the workshop I planed a rebate in the underside of the top piece to take the backing board:
Then it was time for a nearly-clamp-free glue up:
Whilst that was going off, I ran a rebate to the same depth as the ply in a piece of ripped down 45 x 20, cut out some ply, and glued and pinned it in place:
For the sake of continuity I'll carry on with this, but in fact there was a change of job for a couple of hours whilst the glue went off. I glued and pinned the stepped backing board into place:
...then glued a piece under the top. In hindsight, I wished I'd put a gentle curve to the under edge of this:
This is one of the out-of-temporal-order things I did whilst the glue was setting:
That then got mitred, and glued and pinned in place:
The blue tape was to repair an unfortunate dog-related handling error, but besides that I was rather pleased that it all sate rather nicely in place. I just had to shave a bit off the back to clear a pipe clamp:
That all took rather longer than I'd hoped, and with a couple of family activities I found myself tackling the scribing of the base units of the dresser into the evening. That involved gluing some thin strips on to the underside to reduce the amount that would need to be carved away elsewhere:
That carried on for 2 hours this morning, including the time it took to glue the 2 separate parts of the base unit together into one. There's nothing to show for it, other than a piece of furniture which sits squarely and level.
Work in the workshop started with some old bits of painted matching:
I needed three drawer fronts out of this knotty piece of timber, and I wanted to minimise the number of knots in this prominent location:
Two minor bits of filling was all I was left with, and some off-cuts. This is why you always buy more wood than you think you need.
It's awkward doing drawer fronts with planted on beads, because you all-but final adjustment has to happen before you apply the bead. I actually got a micrometer out, which I never do for woodwork:
My wife has spent about 12 hours applying 3 coats of paint to the dresser with a brush. She finished this afternoon, so when it was dry I lifted everything into place:
....and then pushed the oak upper shelf into position:
Unfortunately, my mother chose today to have her 87th birthday, so we lost the afternoon of work to visiting her. Hopefully I'll be done next weekend, on a project which seems to have gone on forever.
My first job was to run a rebate down the scribed back edge of the RH vertical. The astute amongst you will notice that the setting of my router table couldn't possibly produce the rebate as shown, but I had half-packed away the table when I remembered to take a photo:
This is the table folded away (router permanently attached):
That was the last thing I needed to do to before doing the jointing for the shelves. Now, remember that this shelf unit is over the underfloor heating manifold, and covers the flow and return to the boiler. It is going to get seriously heated up. I am therefore naturally concerned about wood movement, even with dried timber, so I decided to do the shelf supports with a sliding dovetail joint. The first job was to plane up a saw guide at the appropriate angle, following the template I made last weekend:
Stupidly, I only took a photo of it in situ from the back, but it was child's play to run a tenon saw along the sloped face:
Note the knots drilled ready for filling.
Having cut the 4 stopped dovetail housings in the uprights, I marked the shoulder positions on the shelves, taken from the top piece:
It's a doddle cutting the male compared with the female, and then I simply shaped the front of the shelves:
Having dry fitted everything together, I offered it up into position to mark up any clashes with the pipes, and to mark any feet adjustment necessary for horizontality (that's a word, isn't it?):
With everything fitting OK, back in the workshop I planed a rebate in the underside of the top piece to take the backing board:
Then it was time for a nearly-clamp-free glue up:
Whilst that was going off, I ran a rebate to the same depth as the ply in a piece of ripped down 45 x 20, cut out some ply, and glued and pinned it in place:
For the sake of continuity I'll carry on with this, but in fact there was a change of job for a couple of hours whilst the glue went off. I glued and pinned the stepped backing board into place:
...then glued a piece under the top. In hindsight, I wished I'd put a gentle curve to the under edge of this:
This is one of the out-of-temporal-order things I did whilst the glue was setting:
That then got mitred, and glued and pinned in place:
The blue tape was to repair an unfortunate dog-related handling error, but besides that I was rather pleased that it all sate rather nicely in place. I just had to shave a bit off the back to clear a pipe clamp:
That all took rather longer than I'd hoped, and with a couple of family activities I found myself tackling the scribing of the base units of the dresser into the evening. That involved gluing some thin strips on to the underside to reduce the amount that would need to be carved away elsewhere:
That carried on for 2 hours this morning, including the time it took to glue the 2 separate parts of the base unit together into one. There's nothing to show for it, other than a piece of furniture which sits squarely and level.
Work in the workshop started with some old bits of painted matching:
I needed three drawer fronts out of this knotty piece of timber, and I wanted to minimise the number of knots in this prominent location:
Two minor bits of filling was all I was left with, and some off-cuts. This is why you always buy more wood than you think you need.
It's awkward doing drawer fronts with planted on beads, because you all-but final adjustment has to happen before you apply the bead. I actually got a micrometer out, which I never do for woodwork:
My wife has spent about 12 hours applying 3 coats of paint to the dresser with a brush. She finished this afternoon, so when it was dry I lifted everything into place:
....and then pushed the oak upper shelf into position:
Unfortunately, my mother chose today to have her 87th birthday, so we lost the afternoon of work to visiting her. Hopefully I'll be done next weekend, on a project which seems to have gone on forever.
MY63
Old Oak
I hope my wife never sees this, as it really raises the bar. Excellent work Mike.
StevieB
Nordic Pine
Mike G":22uprljm said:
:shock: You first posted the design for this on 2nd September Mike - just over 3 weeks ago..... your definition of forever certainly differs from mine
Excellent work, and whatever you think definitely speedy!
Rod
Old Oak
Nice - what are you going to do for handles?
Rod
Rod
StevieB":1bitqs9g said:Mike G":1bitqs9g said:
:shock: You first posted the design for this on 2nd September Mike - just over 3 weeks ago..... your definition of forever certainly differs from mine
My sentiments exactly and Mrs G has done a cracking job with the painting too.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
StevieB":2v6p7xzt said:Mike G":2v6p7xzt said:
:shock: You first posted the design for this on 2nd September Mike - just over 3 weeks ago..... your definition of forever certainly differs from mine
Thanks Steve. Because of my dodgy and a change in work circumstances I have done nothing else but this dresser for the best part of a month. That feels like a long time.
Lovely stuff Mike.
Phil
Old Oak
Really good work Mike :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:
Do you do a "rent-a-painter" and what are her rates?
Do you do a "rent-a-painter" and what are her rates?
Great work Mike, and as always, thanks for sharing
I had a couple of questions:
A lot of people will use hardwoods (beach, ash, poplar) for face frames and door frames, and I never really considered that using pine/redwood was a feasible option - do you find that pine/redwood is durable enough for cabinets? (obviously yes, since you have chosen to do so, I just mean, are there many drawback to doing so?)
Regarding the relief cuts, what's the 'science' or theory behind those? Is it simply done to provide space for the wood to cup into, reducing the tension in the overall board? is there a rule of thumb such as 'a third deep' or some such?
finally, when making solid wood doors, would a loose tenon approach be acceptable between a rail and stile?
Thanks, and by the way, the painting is very nice indeed!
I had a couple of questions:
A lot of people will use hardwoods (beach, ash, poplar) for face frames and door frames, and I never really considered that using pine/redwood was a feasible option - do you find that pine/redwood is durable enough for cabinets? (obviously yes, since you have chosen to do so, I just mean, are there many drawback to doing so?)
Regarding the relief cuts, what's the 'science' or theory behind those? Is it simply done to provide space for the wood to cup into, reducing the tension in the overall board? is there a rule of thumb such as 'a third deep' or some such?
finally, when making solid wood doors, would a loose tenon approach be acceptable between a rail and stile?
Thanks, and by the way, the painting is very nice indeed!
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Good questions, Sammy.
Decent quality pine (redwood) is prefect for work like this. You have to watch for flaws, and straightness, but that's the same with any timber really. It's certainly durable.......a kitchen I made 30 years ago is still looking grand. I'd bet on the screws fixing the hinges on outlasting anything of MDF. It's particularly ideal for your own projects at home, where you can take a plane to any movement after a few months, a luxury you wouldn't get with a client's kitchen. It's one-off movement, and that's only if you don't bring the wood in and acclimatise it for weeks beforehand as you're supposed to.
Relief cuts can be seen on the underside of some solid wood flooboards, and, I think, some engineered ones too. It really works, and I'm quite happy to go to 2/3rds depth, although I'd more generally go to half depth. I guess the theory is pretty much as you outlined.
Loose tongues work perfectly well, but you just have to be a bit careful what shows on the top of your lower unit doors. One of the beauties of using real wood is that you can see the grain slightly through the paint, and the same with any joints, so you need reasonable joints without gaps.
Decent quality pine (redwood) is prefect for work like this. You have to watch for flaws, and straightness, but that's the same with any timber really. It's certainly durable.......a kitchen I made 30 years ago is still looking grand. I'd bet on the screws fixing the hinges on outlasting anything of MDF. It's particularly ideal for your own projects at home, where you can take a plane to any movement after a few months, a luxury you wouldn't get with a client's kitchen. It's one-off movement, and that's only if you don't bring the wood in and acclimatise it for weeks beforehand as you're supposed to.
Relief cuts can be seen on the underside of some solid wood flooboards, and, I think, some engineered ones too. It really works, and I'm quite happy to go to 2/3rds depth, although I'd more generally go to half depth. I guess the theory is pretty much as you outlined.
Loose tongues work perfectly well, but you just have to be a bit careful what shows on the top of your lower unit doors. One of the beauties of using real wood is that you can see the grain slightly through the paint, and the same with any joints, so you need reasonable joints without gaps.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Apologies. I've simply not had time to post the photos of the finishing of this project. It's all done now.
We left it with the dresser having been painted and installed, but without drawer fronts or the internals. So, first up, drawer fronts. These are a flat piece of wood with a bead planted on the outside. I'm aware of the shrinkage issue!! Anyway, after lots of mitre-ing, here is the glue-up (from the back of the drawer front, initially):
Now the fronts:
Final adjustments and fit:
After painting I planted the drawer fronts on permanently and fitted the handles. They are ever so tight, but I know they'll shrink so I don't want to end up with huge gaps:
The middle drawer is going to be the spice drawer. I started out with a scrap of oak off-cut, and remembering that my planer thicknesser is currently dead, I flattened and squared it all up by hand:
After resawing the board on the jigsaw:
... I had a whole lot of thin boards to plane by hand. I'm afraid I got diverted, because my thinnest planing stop was too thick:
Having seen something on here (was it in Woodbloke's workshop, perhaps?) I reached for an old bit of saw plate:
After a bit of hack-sawing and filing, I ended up with this:
It sits on top of the old adjustable planing stop, so disappears into the bench when not needed:
I could finally get on and clean up the thin bits of board:
Re-sawing and hand-planing those, with making the little stop, ended up taking nearly a whole day! The bonus of doing it by hand is that I got an extra piece of wood out of the original compared with what I would have got with the PT working.
It was an odd 2 stage glue-up. Here you can see two thin bits of oak glued at 90 degrees, and a bit of softwood glued on the back. There were three much the same as that:
The following day I simply glued those three bits together:
On to the next job. Inside the upper right hand cupboard, the larder, is going to be a set of narrow shelves. I found one piece of oak which would do nicely for the side pieces, but bearing in mind that I was hand planing all this, it had an absolutely horrible knot:
This forced me into a design change, as you can see from the doodles on the wood. I did lots of this:
......and ended up with this:
I couldn't find anything the right size for the shelves, so I grabbed a nice bit off the end of a 38mm board I'd had knocking around for years:
The grain didn't run straight on one side, so I roughed out in chalk where I might cut the piece I wanted:
A few hours later I had this, and a small blister on the heel of my left hand where it overhung the edge of my number 6:
I think the side pieces are about 9 or 10mm thick, so the little shelf housings had to be quite shallow. I marked them with a knife:
Then hogged out the bulk of the waste with my radial arm circular saw before cleaning up with chisels:
Time for a dry fit:
Whilst that was together dry I used it to mark up for the housings on the underside of the top, which overhangs:
The rebate at the back was stopped each end, and too small bothering to set up the router table for, so I quickly chopped it out by hand:
There is always an old cereal packet in the workshop with which to make quick templates. A quick sketch by hand, some scissor work, and before you know it you have a symmetrical curve laid out:
I planed up some little shelf-edge thingamejigs, to stop everything falling off every time the door is opened. I've no idea how I would have done this without my new planing stop:
Time to glue that lot together:
After cleaning both the spice drawer liner and the pantry shelf unit up, I applied 3 coats of oil/ varnish/ white spirit mix, wiped off, and left 24 hours between coats. I dropped the spice thingy into the drawer, and it took just a few minutes to screw the shelf unit on to the back of the door:
So, that's this job ticked off:
Next comes a rooflight in Douglas Fir, which is going to be a bit of a test for me. Big rebates aren't easy in my workshop, and my planer thicknesser is still dead.
We left it with the dresser having been painted and installed, but without drawer fronts or the internals. So, first up, drawer fronts. These are a flat piece of wood with a bead planted on the outside. I'm aware of the shrinkage issue!! Anyway, after lots of mitre-ing, here is the glue-up (from the back of the drawer front, initially):
Now the fronts:
Final adjustments and fit:
After painting I planted the drawer fronts on permanently and fitted the handles. They are ever so tight, but I know they'll shrink so I don't want to end up with huge gaps:
The middle drawer is going to be the spice drawer. I started out with a scrap of oak off-cut, and remembering that my planer thicknesser is currently dead, I flattened and squared it all up by hand:
After resawing the board on the jigsaw:
... I had a whole lot of thin boards to plane by hand. I'm afraid I got diverted, because my thinnest planing stop was too thick:
Having seen something on here (was it in Woodbloke's workshop, perhaps?) I reached for an old bit of saw plate:
After a bit of hack-sawing and filing, I ended up with this:
It sits on top of the old adjustable planing stop, so disappears into the bench when not needed:
I could finally get on and clean up the thin bits of board:
Re-sawing and hand-planing those, with making the little stop, ended up taking nearly a whole day! The bonus of doing it by hand is that I got an extra piece of wood out of the original compared with what I would have got with the PT working.
It was an odd 2 stage glue-up. Here you can see two thin bits of oak glued at 90 degrees, and a bit of softwood glued on the back. There were three much the same as that:
The following day I simply glued those three bits together:
On to the next job. Inside the upper right hand cupboard, the larder, is going to be a set of narrow shelves. I found one piece of oak which would do nicely for the side pieces, but bearing in mind that I was hand planing all this, it had an absolutely horrible knot:
This forced me into a design change, as you can see from the doodles on the wood. I did lots of this:
......and ended up with this:
I couldn't find anything the right size for the shelves, so I grabbed a nice bit off the end of a 38mm board I'd had knocking around for years:
The grain didn't run straight on one side, so I roughed out in chalk where I might cut the piece I wanted:
A few hours later I had this, and a small blister on the heel of my left hand where it overhung the edge of my number 6:
I think the side pieces are about 9 or 10mm thick, so the little shelf housings had to be quite shallow. I marked them with a knife:
Then hogged out the bulk of the waste with my radial arm circular saw before cleaning up with chisels:
Time for a dry fit:
Whilst that was together dry I used it to mark up for the housings on the underside of the top, which overhangs:
The rebate at the back was stopped each end, and too small bothering to set up the router table for, so I quickly chopped it out by hand:
There is always an old cereal packet in the workshop with which to make quick templates. A quick sketch by hand, some scissor work, and before you know it you have a symmetrical curve laid out:
I planed up some little shelf-edge thingamejigs, to stop everything falling off every time the door is opened. I've no idea how I would have done this without my new planing stop:
Time to glue that lot together:
After cleaning both the spice drawer liner and the pantry shelf unit up, I applied 3 coats of oil/ varnish/ white spirit mix, wiped off, and left 24 hours between coats. I dropped the spice thingy into the drawer, and it took just a few minutes to screw the shelf unit on to the back of the door:
So, that's this job ticked off:
Next comes a rooflight in Douglas Fir, which is going to be a bit of a test for me. Big rebates aren't easy in my workshop, and my planer thicknesser is still dead.
Great stuff Mike.
how are you stopping the door from crashing into the left hand cabinet? I can't see a door stop.
how are you stopping the door from crashing into the left hand cabinet? I can't see a door stop.
Bloody :text-bravo: Mike
:eusa-clap:
bscene-drinkingcheers:
Looks fantastic and so in keeping with the house.
:eusa-clap:
bscene-drinkingcheers:Looks fantastic and so in keeping with the house.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Andyp":1f5o2c3o said:
I was going to put one on the skirting of the cabinet, but the handle (Suffolk latch) bumps nicely into one of the books!!
It's a big heavy door and slow hinges, so it stops when you let go of it, meaning there is a lot less of an issue compared with a modern door.MY63
Old Oak
Mike I am totally inspired I have a garage waiting conversion to a utility room, I was thinking of looking for an ex display kitchen to go in it but not anymore, I am going to make it myself.
Alasdair
Sapling
That's lovely work Mike, and these days who'd know what winding sticks are much less how to use them.
If I wore one I'd take my hat off to you...
If I wore one I'd take my hat off to you...
Woodbloke
Sequoia
Good stuff Mike; another Waitrose shopper - Rob
- Rob
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Alasdair":20c09m7w said:
Thanks Alasdair. Those winding sticks, believe it or not, led to a very heated discussion elsewhere. Some people think there is only one way to do woodworking things.
Rezi
New Shoots
Looks lovely Mike. Can I ask what the plan is for the space between the units?
AJB Temple
Sequoia
- Joined
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Very nice Mike.
I see you like tinned beans.
And I shall be copying the spices drawer. That neatly overcomes the problem of not being able to see the labels when they are crowded on a shelf.
Adrian
I see you like tinned beans.
And I shall be copying the spices drawer. That neatly overcomes the problem of not being able to see the labels when they are crowded on a shelf.
Adrian
Rod
Old Oak
Great stuff Mike as always
Rod
Rod
Mike G
Petrified Pine
AJB Temple":3mcfgqfy said:
Thanks Adrian. Actually, no, it says more about the inadequacy of the previous arrangements. More tins were bought because the ones we already had were lost behind other stuff on a shelf. That sort of chaos was one of the driving factors behind making this unit.
Phil
Old Oak
That looks really smart Mike, nice work. :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:
Cabinetman
Sequoia
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- Ian
That’s really super Mike, and as somebody else said, I’m going to nick that spice drawer idea!
Nico Adie
New Shoots
I’ve read through all 133 pages of this. Deserves to be made to a book. Particularly keen on the “you can only p*sh with the c*ck you’ve got” attitude, and that’s about the biggest compliment I could pay. Resourcefulness, ingenuity, efficiency of design, focus, talent, flair and execution. Properly inspirational. Thank you for taking the time to document it.