• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Picture frame

Sheffield Tony

Sheffield Tony

Nordic Pine
Joined
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I seem to post too much general chat and not enough woodwork. Probably reflects on life at the moment ! Anyway, a tiny bit to redress the balance. A frame, for my son. Reclaimed wood from old furniture.
Just glued up, checking the fit of the backing board and the glass.

20220102_181223.jpg

I wanted a hint of the far East to this one. The corner joints are a lap joint, with kind of mitred shoulders. The main purpose of the mitres is to allow the glass rebates in the back to meet nicely at the corners, and it gives somewhere to plane into when cutting the rebates. This was one of the rare occasions I chose the Stanley #78 in preference to my WS A78; the later has the 2 arms for the fence and is generally better, but the Stanley can take the depth stop and fence on either side, which the WS can't. It was also the first time ever for me using the forward iron position to work into the corner. I found myself wishing for a proper bullnose plane, the length of the short sides is only just enough to get a #78 in.

Those corner joints I found a bit of a devil to cut. To avoid scribe lines I marked them out in pencil, which makes an accurate result more difficult. I think I might mark them out with the knife and plane the marks away if I do it again. The first ones I cut are not as tight as I'd like; I got better with practice.

Darkened a bit with Van Dyck crystals, a couple of coats of Osmo. In place:

20220108_205623.jpg

Sorry about the lighting - it has always gone dark by the time I'm finished !
 
I can see why you wanted, and achieved, a hint of the far east. Looks good and congrats to your son as well.
 
Looks good to me, and very challenging to get four joints to match so well so close together.

:eusa-clap: :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:
 
I know just what you mean about too much talking and not enough proper woodwork, got into the workshop this afternoon having not been well for a week and did some real old-fashioned woodworky type stuff, cheered me up no end, pics to follow.
Looks very good Tony, would like to have seen those corner joints prior to gluing, they look a little complicated. Ian
 
Thanks. I must do better at taking pictures. Never been great at WIP pictures - I get carried away, crack on, then find I've finished, the daylight is gone, and I forgot to photograph the key bits !
 
Well, it is glued up now, and I'm not cutting another to take a photo ! But maybe this helps. Both halves the same, as I described it earlier, effectively a lap joint with mitred shoulders.

joint.png

So the shape isn't complicated at all, it is just getting the little mitred shoulders to meet up neatly, as you can't use shooting boards etc, just pare carefully to the line with a chisel.
 
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