Picture frames, why mitres?

[ScaredyCat]

I have some picture frames to make and I was just wondering why they're made with mitres. Why not, even single, dovetails? Shirley the joint would be stronger, even comb joints would be stronger. Given that people have been making picture frames for longer than I've been alive, why are they still made with mitres?

 

[9fingers]

I have some picture frames to make and I was just wondering why they're made with mitres. Why not, even single, dovetails? Shirley the joint would be stronger, even comb joints would be stronger. Given that people have been making picture frames for longer than I've been alive, why are they still made with mitres?

If the frame has any sort of decorative profile then only a mitre joint can be used surely?

Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

I have some picture frames to make and I was just wondering why they're made with mitres. Why not, even single, dovetails? Shirley the joint would be stronger, even comb joints would be stronger. Given that people have been making picture frames for longer than I've been alive, why are they still made with mitres?

If the frame has any sort of decorative profile then only a mitre joint can be used surely?

Bob

I think that's it, given that many commercial picture frames have some sort of profiled, decorative section - Rob

 

[Trevanion]

I've seen really nice picture frames made with bridled mitres for fancy effect, but yes as already been said if there's a face profile the only way it will tidily wrap around is with a mitre joint.

If you've got a plain frame there's no reason you couldn't mortice and tenon, dovetail lap, half lap, or any other kind of joint.

 

[ScaredyCat]

If the frame has any sort of decorative profile then only a mitre joint can be used surely?

Is that only the case if you profile the material first? I understand that's the normal process, but stuff isn't always made the simplest way possible, just because it's simple.

 

[Mike Jordan]

This method will avoid the gaping mitre problem, but it's certainly not cheaper than mitred corners.

 

[9fingers]

If the frame has any sort of decorative profile then only a mitre joint can be used surely?

Is that only the case if you profile the material first? I understand that's the normal process, but stuff isn't always made the simplest way possible, just because it's simple.

True. If your profile is a simple one and can be say routed in after assembly then provided you have ensured that the profile will not break through into the joint, then there should not be a problem.

I've not done a lot picture framing but have always made the stock by the mile first as I think it is the easiest by far. The mitres can be strengthened with feathers if needed - decorative or otherwise or plates stuck on the back.

Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

True. If your profile is a simple one and can be say routed in after assembly then provided you have ensured that the profile will not break through into the joint, then there should not be a problem.

I've not done a lot picture framing but have always made the stock by the mile first as I think it is the easiest by far. The mitres can be strengthened with feathers if needed - decorative or otherwise or plates stuck on the back.

Bob

I've done loads of picture frames over the decades and I always keep it simple with a flat, rectangular section. I find that if you can use a really decent, well figured bit of material for the frame, you don't really need much else. This is one I did...



...a couple of years ago. It's an antique Japanese woodblock print of a pair of Red Crowned Cranes, using a book matched, English Walnut frame and 4mm Bog Oak splines. I usually (not always) use a mount and I always get it professionally cut; this one (as do most of my pics) uses a 'Hayseed' double mount with 'Clarity' near museum quality, non reflective glass. It's also important to have slightly more mount at the bottom to give some visual weight.

Too much faffing around with decorative mouldings tends, in my very 'umble opinion to detract from the subject matter of the picture rather than enhance it - Rob

 

[AndyT]

I think a nice alternative to the mitre is the "Oxford frame" which uses half-lap joints and stopped chamfers. Often made in oak, it goes well with an arts and crafts style interior. Selection of images here

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=oxford ... iax=images

and period-correct instructions on how to make them here

https://archive.org/stream/woodworkjoin ... 0/mode/2up

 

[John Brown]

Forgive me if this has been mentioned already, but why not a scribed "cope and stick"(is that the term?). Like you might use on a panelled door?
I expect there's a good reason, but I haven't twigged it yet.

 

[9fingers]

Forgive me if this has been mentioned already, but why not a scribed "cope and stick"(is that the term?). Like you might use on a panelled door?
I expect there's a good reason, but I haven't twigged it yet.

That would work with the end grain suitable dealt with. I guess it is a case of unconventional rather than right or wrong.

Bob