duke
Old Oak
I like the square of Thales and frame.
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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Post a photo of the last thing you made...
- Thread starter TrimTheKing
- Start date
I'd not heard of the square of Thales before. Very smart - here's the young fella explaining
woodstalker
Nordic Pine
Been making a few of these little chaps for gifts.
duke
Old Oak
Finally got my , you know what moving. Needed to finish some trim work in one of our bathrooms. Trim on top of the vanity I built three years ago, along with the upper cabinet.
duke
Old Oak
Raided the scrap bin, found what was needed. Cut to size, sanded and applied wipe on varathane. 
duke
Old Oak
Also needed to make a nicer towel holder.
duke
Old Oak
Caulked the trim with translucent silicone, goes on white dries clear. Screwed the towel holder in place. 
Cabinetman
Sequoia
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- Ian
Looks a really good job duke, the doors are really smart. What wood is that pls?
duke
Old Oak
Ian, other than the top which is White Oak it is Cherry. The Cherry was milled about 50 years ago, it has been air drying since then.
As well as the upper cabinet. Salvaged the mirror from the old unit.
As well as the upper cabinet. Salvaged the mirror from the old unit.
Phil
Old Oak
duke
Old Oak
I can see your oscillating spindle sander being useful when making your ornaments. What is the make and model?
duke
Old Oak
Was getting really bored this afternoon. The burger flipper needed a new handle.
woodstalker
Nordic Pine
Bandsaw with a narrow blade. I used the design off the workshop companion YouTube channel. I made the reindeer last year.Did you scrollsaw or bandsaw?
Looks like a nice 3D compound cut.
woodstalker
Nordic Pine
It’s a Triton 450W Oscillating Spindle & Belt Sander - TSPST450.
It’s ok, needs better dust extraction I think.
Phil
Old Oak
I came across that site yesterday while surfing stuff to scroll.
There are some really nice ideas which I have filed away under scrolling and turning.
Did the reindeer 3 years ago.
A bandsaw would be faster than the scrollsaw. Also the scrollsaw I am limited to about 45mm thick.
woodstalker
Nordic Pine
I rather like the channel he explains things very well I think
Phil
Old Oak
Yes, I have added the site to my "Speed Dial", will go back later.
Phil
Old Oak
What timber did you use to make it, and what size are they?
Alasdair
Sapling
I made a couple of trinket boxes with a twist for two of my oldest friends
The twist is inside when they open them
The twist is inside when they open them
duke
Old Oak
Wow a great trinket box and even better surprise inside.
Cabinetman
Sequoia
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That would make me really chuckle each time I saw it.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I'm curious about the brasswork. What are those hinged hoops called? Where do you find stuff like that?
Woodbloke
Sequoia
My son has similar print of JH playing his guitar through a Marshall amp, only his is autographed in large handwriting across the bottom with the signature "Jim Marshall". JM happened to be in a guitar shop in Soton when my son bought a Gibson - Rob
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
In a previous life, some time in the 90s, I made a pair of mills. Some friends came round for dinner some months back and admired them and asked me to make them a pair. Of course I said yes, having no recollection of how I made them originally.
Well turning is not my thing, I have very basic turning skils, and the lathe and tools I have now are not a patch on what I had then. If you have a CL3 lathe that came without its bar supports and has a cherry knob on the pulley cover, I'd like it back please.
Now I am sure that someone like Chas or AndyP could knock out a pair in a morning, but this has taken me three weeks, with several false starts and much firewood production along the way.
I took the opportunity to spruce up the original pair (both ash) with a good scrub (jeez, they were filthy!), a new coat of lacquer and new foils. The pair on the right are yew and oak. The mechanisms are not the same. The originals came from Craft Supplies in Derbyshire, so that gives you some idea of when they were made, whereas the new ones came from China. These are spring-loaded, too, which I'm not sure is helpful, TBH.
I'm reasonably pleased with the end result, but I never want to have to make another pair, life is too short.
Well turning is not my thing, I have very basic turning skils, and the lathe and tools I have now are not a patch on what I had then. If you have a CL3 lathe that came without its bar supports and has a cherry knob on the pulley cover, I'd like it back please.
Now I am sure that someone like Chas or AndyP could knock out a pair in a morning, but this has taken me three weeks, with several false starts and much firewood production along the way.
I took the opportunity to spruce up the original pair (both ash) with a good scrub (jeez, they were filthy!), a new coat of lacquer and new foils. The pair on the right are yew and oak. The mechanisms are not the same. The originals came from Craft Supplies in Derbyshire, so that gives you some idea of when they were made, whereas the new ones came from China. These are spring-loaded, too, which I'm not sure is helpful, TBH.
I'm reasonably pleased with the end result, but I never want to have to make another pair, life is too short.
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AJB Temple
Sequoia
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Unusual Steve. We need to see the bottoms!
The ceramic cruish grind mechanisms are very good, but spendy. I like them because they can handle damp salt, such as the French Sel de Gris, without clogging.
The ceramic cruish grind mechanisms are very good, but spendy. I like them because they can handle damp salt, such as the French Sel de Gris, without clogging.
They are excellent Steve and you flatter me. I wouldn’t know where to start making those. Are they wine bottle size too?
duke
Old Oak
Neat and the fact they look like wine bottles is very cleaver.
AJB Temple
Sequoia
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Being a tad OCDish, I would have to turn the one on the right to line the grain up
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
I replaced the grinders on mine a while back. They appear to work fine.
They are all supposed to be 10" mechanisms, but the new ones are a good 12mm taller than the old ones.
Yes, well, there was a couple of flaws in the yew and it meant I ended up taking about 30-35mm out from the middle, so actually the grain doesn't run as smoothly as I originally intended. That was just one of the many frustration along the way.
(I suffer a bit from CDO. It's just like OCD except that all the letters are in the right order...
)
Thank you all for your kind words, much appreciated
They are all supposed to be 10" mechanisms, but the new ones are a good 12mm taller than the old ones.
Being a tad OCDish, I would have to turn the one on the right to line the grain up
Yes, well, there was a couple of flaws in the yew and it meant I ended up taking about 30-35mm out from the middle, so actually the grain doesn't run as smoothly as I originally intended. That was just one of the many frustration along the way.
(I suffer a bit from CDO. It's just like OCD except that all the letters are in the right order...
)Thank you all for your kind words, much appreciated
Back on 22 December, @rxh slipped some pictures of a very neat modification to a router plane into his fascinating chair/steps project here.
I said I liked the idea and was going to copy it.
And to prove it, only a fortnight later (even though that fortnight was mostly filled with non-workshop, seasonal fun
) I have done just that!
Here's mine:
You can spot the differences - the post is brass and the nuts are steel, which is the opposite way round to Richard's. There's no good engineering reason for this, it's just that I have run out of the right size brass for the nuts but had plenty of steel to hand.
And just to confuse any tool collectors in the future, I have, as promised earlier, used obsolete threads - 2BA on the post, 4BA for the locking screw on the post collar. (I nearly used M3.5 but didn't have a 2.9mm tapping drill.)
Of course, there may well be other differences, like the level of accuracy, quality of finish and amount of time spent faffing about making the parts slightly smaller so it's possible to assemble them... But it does work, and succeeds in making the little Stanley 271 as easy to adjust and set as its bigger 71/71½ brothers.
Many thanks, Richard for the original idea.
I said I liked the idea and was going to copy it.
And to prove it, only a fortnight later (even though that fortnight was mostly filled with non-workshop, seasonal fun
) I have done just that!Here's mine:
You can spot the differences - the post is brass and the nuts are steel, which is the opposite way round to Richard's. There's no good engineering reason for this, it's just that I have run out of the right size brass for the nuts but had plenty of steel to hand.
And just to confuse any tool collectors in the future, I have, as promised earlier, used obsolete threads - 2BA on the post, 4BA for the locking screw on the post collar. (I nearly used M3.5 but didn't have a 2.9mm tapping drill.)
Of course, there may well be other differences, like the level of accuracy, quality of finish and amount of time spent faffing about making the parts slightly smaller so it's possible to assemble them... But it does work, and succeeds in making the little Stanley 271 as easy to adjust and set as its bigger 71/71½ brothers.
Many thanks, Richard for the original idea.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
That's excellent, Andy. I have the same router and yes, adjustment is a pain.
Now if my mate Stuart hadn't been and gone and died...
Now if my mate Stuart hadn't been and gone and died...
Dr.Al
Old Oak
Looks great Andy. I'll also be copying it when I find a conveniently circular tuit.
Woodbloke
Sequoia
Agreed Steve, a rather natty improvement to a great little router plane (I used to have two) but alas the lack of a suitable mw lathe means it's off limits to me - Rob
You don't know how far off the mark you are with that as far as I'm concerned these days, all I've created recently is kindling for a neighbour.
Maybe if we ever get some warmer weather to make the lathe shed turner friendly we might see a few more basic items in an attempt to reduce the wood pile.
Well done on persevering with what must have been a couple of awkward shapes to handle.
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NickM
Old Oak
Copy cat...
I've been keen to give this a go. I've had a lathe for a couple of years but have not used it very much so this seemed a good project to have a go at.
It has made me realise how bad I am at this. I think I had to make every component at least twice
.
It does work well though. A knurled knob would be an improvement, but not essential.
I've been keen to give this a go. I've had a lathe for a couple of years but have not used it very much so this seemed a good project to have a go at.
It has made me realise how bad I am at this. I think I had to make every component at least twice
.It does work well though. A knurled knob would be an improvement, but not essential.
Woodbloke
Sequoia
After a bit of hiatus, the 'Dark Side' has been tackled again:
This is a pretty 'el cheapo' kit from Axminster (about as inexpensive as there is) but I was trying out a new (to me) finish. Last year I had very mixed results using a highly gloss CA finish which I couldn't get on with in any way whatsoever. Somebody on InsatG pointed me in the direction of using Melamine Lacquer for a finish and I was able to download and print an excellent, highly detailed 'manual' on how it's done. This is the first pen (Bubinga) with that finish which is one coat of cellulose sanding sealer, 4 of melamine lacquer and a top coat of carnauba wax. There's a lot more to the process than that but it didn't take too long at all to sort it out - Rob
This is a pretty 'el cheapo' kit from Axminster (about as inexpensive as there is) but I was trying out a new (to me) finish. Last year I had very mixed results using a highly gloss CA finish which I couldn't get on with in any way whatsoever. Somebody on InsatG pointed me in the direction of using Melamine Lacquer for a finish and I was able to download and print an excellent, highly detailed 'manual' on how it's done. This is the first pen (Bubinga) with that finish which is one coat of cellulose sanding sealer, 4 of melamine lacquer and a top coat of carnauba wax. There's a lot more to the process than that but it didn't take too long at all to sort it out - Rob
Go on, treat yourself!
I bought mine from RDG and it's been entirely satisfactory for what I've used it for. Like this one, which now comes with a pair of springs on:
INDUSTRIAL 2 WHEEL CLAMP KNURLING TOOL15.6MM SHANK - RDG Tools
INDUSTRIAL 2 WHEEL CLAMP KNURLING TOOL, NEW TO RDGTOOLS. SHANK SIZE 15.6MM X 9.4MM WILL FIT SOME MYFORD’S ALL DEPENDANT ON WHICH TOOLPOST IS BEING USED, THE HEAD SELF ADJUSTS TO CENTRE HEIGHT, HEAD CLAMPS ON WORK BY THE KNURLED NUT ON THE TOP OF THE HEAD, A LOVELY QUALITY TOOL, THIS IS A SPECIAL...
www.rdgtools.co.uk
Did you make the little setscrew with the odd 28tpi thread?
Yep melamine lacquer has been my finish of choice for quite a while now. i am sure I had mentioned somewhere earlier.
That was the practice for the knotted pen?
That was the practice for the knotted pen?