• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Recent Acquisitions

Malc2098

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I know neither of these have got a motor, but they work with the table saw, which has, so I've put them in M&C.

Look what carefully scanning of Facebook's Marketplace can show up.

I reckon I've got these at about half retail price and a drive across Exmoor to collect them.

The tenoning jig is built like a tank!

I have a couple of projects in mind that I intend to use M&T joints for.
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Well done, I have both of those that I use on my Wadkin AGS table saw. The mitre guide I use all the time, its a really good bit of kit.
 
Are they second hand? They look in excellent condition.

I’ve heard good reports on the Osborne mitre gauge & though I’m not a fan of cutting tenon cheeks on the table saw I believe that jig works well if a little risky but then again I’m certainly the wrong person to comment on H&S
 
Doug":11j754ts said:
Are they second hand? They look in excellent condition.

I’ve heard good reports on the Osborne mitre gauge & though I’m not a fan of cutting tenon cheeks on the table saw I believe that jig works well if a little risky but then again I’m certainly the wrong person to comment on H&S

Second hand indeed, as I said before, offered for sale on Facebook Marketplace and only an hour's drive away. Vendor was downsizing and had got rid of his table saw.

Only today, I was having to replace all the cladding on my bin store and had to cut 16 lengths of larch F/E at 1.0m exactly. It was a doddle with the Osborne which extends to 1.0m, and they all came out exactly the same, as you'd expect. I know, I could have used the Kapex with a stop, but I was also having to cut a rebate in all 16 lengths so the F/E laid flat against the framework, so The TS was the workstation for both jobs.

And I got all 16 painted on all sides and 8 fixed before my back said 'No!'. I can do the rest tomorrow. I did the doors for LOML's Valentine's day present! :D
 
Nice tenoning jig in 1980's Delta blue-gray. Has that been sitting in a box for the last 30 years? It looks pristine.

I had a clone of one of those. They work really well--solid and above all consistent. It did pretty much everything you can do with tenons on the table saw. Good find!

Doug":30ux2aew said:
I’ve heard good reports on the Osborne mitre gauge & though I’m not a fan of cutting tenon cheeks on the table saw I believe that jig works well if a little risky but then again I’m certainly the wrong person to comment on H&S

Doug, if you keep both hands on the handles when cutting it's pretty safe. You're not going to get any kickback or have your workpiece get loose. Yes, the blade is unguarded but that's the case with any non-through cut.

Kirk
 
kirkpoore1":25oi8ua6 said:
Doug, if you keep both hands on the handles when cutting it's pretty safe. You're not going to get any kickback or have your workpiece get loose. Yes, the blade is unguarded but that's the case with any non-through cut.

Kirk

I agree Kirk & there’s many ways to skin a cat, but I thought it was worth pointing out the jig comes with its own risks, personally I think there are safer & quicker ways of cutting the joint but each to their own
 
kirkpoore1":2tblyrvd said:
Nice tenoning jig in 1980's Delta blue-gray. Has that been sitting in a box for the last 30 years? It looks pristine.

I had a clone of one of those. They work really well--solid and above all consistent. It did pretty much everything you can do with tenons on the table saw. Good find!

Kirk

Thanks, Kirk. I don't know if the Delta is that old. The chap selling was younger than me, had the manual but not the box. Solid, yes! Built like a tank! (The jig, not the chap selling! :D )
 
Doug":3uko7lwk said:
kirkpoore1":3uko7lwk said:
Doug, if you keep both hands on the handles when cutting it's pretty safe. You're not going to get any kickback or have your workpiece get loose. Yes, the blade is unguarded but that's the case with any non-through cut.

Kirk

I agree Kirk & there’s many ways to skin a cat, but I thought it was worth pointing out the jig comes with its own risks, personally I think there are safer & quicker ways of cutting the joint but each to their own

There are indeed many ways to make a tenon. I think I've tried seven:
Hand cut shoulder/split face
Hand cut shoulder/sawn face
Radial arm saw shoulder and faces (repeated cuts parallel to the shoulder)
Tenon jig shoulder & face
RAS shoulder/tenon jig face
Shaper
Tenoner

The tenoner is the best, but few have them. Shaper with a sliding table may be the second best, but I didn't have a sliding table so I used a jig. Worked well for some things, but long parts tended to sag and lose accuracy. RAS shoulder/tenon jig face was the most accurate after that, and fairly quick even though it needed more cuts.

Used with care, the tenon jig is plenty safe. Used without paying attention, you're going to screw up your tenons anyway. I will say this: Once it's dialed in, you can cut tenon faces so fast you can get complacent. That's where the trouble starts.

Kirk
 
As mentioned elsewhere usefulness of tenon jig restricted by ceiling height.

Looking forward to cutting mine on mitre saw soon.
 
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