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Resaw saw recommendation

ScaredyCat

ScaredyCat

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In an almost Dirk Gently kind of way, today I went through the process of resawing 5 1/2" inch oak and 4 1/2 inch purple heart on my Draper CTS200 table saw. The blade can't make a complete cut, even cutting from both sides. Since don't have the luxury of a bandsaw
I'm looking for a recommendation for a hand saw. Just to be clear i've started the resaw process on the table saw already so only need to complete the cuts.

I do own a rather nice frame saw from one of the UKWS secret Santas. It's a prized possession but is it appropriate for this kind of work?
 
Frame saws definitely can be used for ripping, and would be in many mainland European countries.
For instance, Dieter Schmid sell rip blades for frame saws (and are shipping to the UK again)

https://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.html

In my own limited experience of this, I found that for deep cuts a big, heavy saw of 3 - 4 tpi was good, and can't help wondering if a frame saw would be a bit light. But thousands of years of tradition says I'm wrong!
 
ScaredyCat":t1kz3v8r said:
In an almost Dirk Gently kind of way, today I went through the process of resawing 5 1/2" inch oak and 4 1/2 inch purple heart on my Draper CTS200 table saw. The blade can't make a complete cut, even cutting from both sides. Since don't have the luxury of a bandsaw
I'm looking for a recommendation for a hand saw. Just to be clear i've started the resaw process on the table saw already so only need to complete the cuts.
Click to expand...
It's been said many times, but if you were to kick that tablesaur into touch and get a half respectable bandsaw instead, you wouldn't have any issues with re-sawing deep stock and you'd probably be able to go much deeper than a measly 5.5"...and a bandsaw is not a luxury :D

If you're after a recommendation for a handsaw to finish the job, a 3 or 4 tpi Disston rip is pretty hard to beat - Rob
 
Oh that's much coarser than I expected.

Any saw recommendations, I had a look at this site's namesake and only found >£100 ones. I found some spear & jackson ones but they were all cross cut.

Given my saw kerf on the table saw was 2.4mm can I just grab a screwfix special ?
 
Woodbloke":1gtcv5ah said:
It's been said many times, but if you were to kick that tablesaur into touch and get a half respectable bandsaw instead, you wouldn't have any issues with re-sawing deep stock and you'd probably be able to go much deeper than a measly 5.5"...and a bandsaw is not a luxury :D
Click to expand...

I'd love to get a bandsaw but I don't have a workshop (or garage), so, like the table saw I'd have to drag it out of the house and into the garden. That's a lot easier with something with a low centre of gravity. If I start do do more ripping, with bigger lumps of wood then I'll have a look at other options, but this, soft of works.

I'll happily do a bit of manual labour - although I might feel differently after I've completed this task :D
 
Given a deep tablesaw kerf on both sides, a cheap hardpoint should finish the job without issue, but might take longer than a dedicated rip saw. I've used the orange Irwin one, but Mike G recommends the Barracuda version instead. Best price I've seen for that was Toolstation, if you have one nearby, but otherwise your local builders' merchant.
 
That saw is listed as having a 60 mm cut. That doubles up to 120 mm, which should have done your 100 mm purpleheart easy.
There should only be about 10 mm left in the middle of the oak.
If this is a one off job, dont spend out on a saw, just break it apart with a hammer and wedges and then plane it smooth.
I had to do this to a piece of walnut recently, and the damaged part cleaned up easily without a trace with only a 1mm loss of width.
 
Yeah, I deliberately don't try to go all the way through on the cut as a precaution and I did the Purple heart first and forgot to raise the blade a bit for the oak.
 
I dont often use the table saw to rip wood taller than the blade, but I have lately been cutting quite a few 200 mm wide oak planks into thinner pieces, I have found nothing to scare me about cutting all the way through on the second cut. 8-)
 
I also needed use of similar yesterday cutting through 100mm thick American Black Walnut....300mm + wide. My Festool TS55 would only go so far. Tried a Bahco tree surgeon type saw...maybe the blade was knackered but it was pretty useless. Then I tried a cheapie Irwin from Screwfix and it went through the remaining wood dead easily.
 
I have tried a few different hard points and now I only buy Spear and Jackson 2nd fit which I think has 10 TPI but you could go mad and buy a first fit which has probably five or six TPI and will be more suitable for ripping. Ian
 
RogerS":8p7hw7hp said:
I also needed use of similar yesterday cutting through 100mm thick American Black Walnut....300mm + wide. My Festool TS55 would only go so far. Tried a Bahco tree surgeon type saw...maybe the blade was knackered but it was pretty useless. Then I tried a cheapie Irwin from Screwfix and it went through the remaining wood dead easily.
Click to expand...

The problem with doing those deepish cuts with a small circular saw is that the sawdust has nowhere to go and can build up very rapidly in the groove. I did this just once and the blade jammed causing a very, very nasty bit of kick back. A 'brown trouser' moment of mega proportions and I've never, ever done it again. You don't need me to tell you Rog that the blade should clear the underside of the timber by a tooth (min) and preferably more.
Proceed at your peril :D If you've got 100mm to chomp through, get out the 3tpi Disston rip, give a tickle with a file and saw it by hand, or at least into chunks that you can then get onto the bs table - Rob
 
Its all in the feed rate.
If youre pushing wood through thats taller than the blade, just relax the pushing force every few seconds and the blade teeth will clear themselves in a second.
 
sunnybob":yjqcaquv said:
Its all in the feed rate.
If youre pushing wood through thats taller than the blade, just relax the pushing force every few seconds and the blade teeth will clear themselves in a second.
Click to expand...

Fine until the first time the blade jams in the cut...and it will! Just make sure you have a clean pair of pants handy :lol: - Rob
 
Oh ye of little faith.
I have god on my side. :eusa-dance: :eusa-dance: :eusa-dance:
 
sunnybob":h38xs51d said:
Its all in the feed rate.
If youre pushing wood through thats taller than the blade, just relax the pushing force every few seconds and the blade teeth will clear themselves in a second.
Click to expand...

I'll second Sunnybob on this one, I remember standing with my dad at the old, line shaft and belt table saw, this thing was a scary beast with a 24" ripping blade installed. the only height adjustment on the blade was slipping a wedge under the table to lift it up. we were ripping 18" x 10" blocks of Opepe (Bilinga) into 18"x8" blocks which meant passing these blocks over the scary monster blade flipping them and passing them over again. Feed rate was crucial as that saw could throw those heavy blocks with a touch of force.
:lol: :lol:
 
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