That would be a work around, but then the top of the beading would be higher than the rail surface. This cutter leaves the top of the bead at the same height as rail. The other solution would be to use a scratch stock to work the moulding, but going round a 90deg curved corner would cause a distinct problem - RobCan you do a plant on ?
I agree it would be better not to add on, but were you to relieve the edge at an angle with a spokeshave before adding the beaded bit it could produce the desired effect.That would be a work around, but then the top of the beading would be higher than the rail surface. This cutter leaves the top of the bead at the same height as rail. The other solution would be to use a scratch stock to work the moulding, but going round a 90deg curved corner would cause a distinct problem - Rob
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Interesting idea, but then how do you go round a corner?Do I foresee some home-made centipede planes in your future, Rob?
I saw that one earlier Andy and it might do at a pinch; certainly the closest cutter to date...'murrican though and 1/2" shank. The one I'm after will have a 6mm shank to be used hrizontaly in a small router - RobIs it one of these Rob?
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Bevel & Bead Wainscoting Router bit-0908A
The Bevel and Bead router bit is ideal for creating artistic bead profiles on wainscoting, frames, doors, or other projects. Findbuytool offers a varied size selection to meet your multiple project requirements.www.findbuytool.com
The same way you'd make those right angles with a router!Interesting idea, but then how do you go round a corner?
Thinking about it whilst munching a cheese sarni, I reckon a custom made scratch stock with a rounded profile is the only way that you'd be able to work the moulding round the inside say, of a door, for the simple reason that the router base won't fitThe same way you'd make those right angles with a router!
Seriously though, I guess the original answer is a blend of carving and scratching, assuming it's not a planted moulding.
Is your original picture a frame grab from a video showing manufacture of the same piece as your second photo?
Were it to be done by hand (scratch stock) rather than a machine (router) the choice of timber would be important, as the blade would be scraping across the grain in some places, so a softish hardwood or softwood would make life very difficult. Much better I think to use a harder, denser hardwood for this sort of malarky, which is what the Chinese used in the first place for their furniture - RobBut I still think that in an original production environment a worker with a gouge of the right shape and a modicum of skill would be quicker and more adaptable.