• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Router bit?

Woodbloke

Sequoia
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
7,135
Reaction score
1,019
Location
Salisbury, UK
Right chaps, can anybody please point me in the direction of a router bit like wot this is:

490884851_9162524770539914_356734459976520698_n.jpg

...which will machine a bead and then leave a gradual bevel? It's the sort of detailing found on Chinese furniture:

Unknown.jpeg

...as so, but it appears nigh on impossible to find one - Rob
 
Rob not seen one like that in any catalog.
In the past I’ve had specials custom made, but in Spain……there was a company in uk that custom made but can’t remember their name, sorry.

Can you do a plant on ?
 
Can you do a plant on ?
That would be a work around, but then the top of the beading would be higher than the rail surface. This cutter leaves the top of the bead at the same height as rail. The other solution would be to use a scratch stock to work the moulding, but going round a 90deg curved corner would cause a distinct problem - Rob
 
That would be a work around, but then the top of the beading would be higher than the rail surface. This cutter leaves the top of the bead at the same height as rail. The other solution would be to use a scratch stock to work the moulding, but going round a 90deg curved corner would cause a distinct problem - Rob
I agree it would be better not to add on, but were you to relieve the edge at an angle with a spokeshave before adding the beaded bit it could produce the desired effect.
The equipment firm I always dealt with in the uk have a very good supply guy who got all my custom made spindle cutters made for me.
He at least will be able to tell you availability and rough price.
I have always been impressed with the original hand made Chinese furniture. One of these years I will finally finish the alter/console table I started- it’s so close to being done, brass work still to do.

Edit, probably be an idea to have it sketched out full size to email to him.
Ian
 
Do I foresee some home-made centipede planes in your future, Rob?
Interesting idea, but then how do you go round a corner?

Is it one of these Rob?
I saw that one earlier Andy and it might do at a pinch; certainly the closest cutter to date...'murrican though and 1/2" shank. The one I'm after will have a 6mm shank to be used hrizontaly in a small router - Rob
 
Interesting idea, but then how do you go round a corner?
The same way you'd make those right angles with a router! 😏

Seriously though, I guess the original answer is a blend of carving and scratching, assuming it's not a planted moulding.
Is your original picture a frame grab from a video showing manufacture of the same piece as your second photo?
 
The same way you'd make those right angles with a router! 😏

Seriously though, I guess the original answer is a blend of carving and scratching, assuming it's not a planted moulding.
Is your original picture a frame grab from a video showing manufacture of the same piece as your second photo?
Thinking about it whilst munching a cheese sarni, I reckon a custom made scratch stock with a rounded profile is the only way that you'd be able to work the moulding round the inside say, of a door, for the simple reason that the router base won't fit:ROFLMAO: This short UToob clip shows the process with a parallel cutter going round a large project on the outside of the curve, which begs the question of how was the inside curve done on that Chinese table in the opening post? It had to be a scratch stock of some sort...I think - Rob
 
If the router user in that clip had any sense, he'd fix a pair of half round sticks onto opposite sides of his router base. It would then follow the curve nicely, whether external or slow internal, just like the reversible fence on a Stanley 73 does.

But I still think that in an original production environment a worker with a gouge of the right shape and a modicum of skill would be quicker and more adaptable.
 
But I still think that in an original production environment a worker with a gouge of the right shape and a modicum of skill would be quicker and more adaptable.
Were it to be done by hand (scratch stock) rather than a machine (router) the choice of timber would be important, as the blade would be scraping across the grain in some places, so a softish hardwood or softwood would make life very difficult. Much better I think to use a harder, denser hardwood for this sort of malarky, which is what the Chinese used in the first place for their furniture - Rob
 
Back
Top