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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Rusty to Sharp
- Thread starter Woodster
- Start date
Lurker
Old Oak
Got bored halfway through.
Besides my sharpening method is much better
Besides my sharpening method is much better
Cabinetman
Sequoia
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- Oct 11, 2020
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- Lincolnshire Wolds + Massachusetts
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- Ian
Yes, sorry couldn’t stand any more, way too much talking.
Probably boring to you chaps (and something I've seen and done myself, but we're not really his target audience. I thought it was a good, if a little long, example to those less experienced in tool restoration that it doesn't need a billion expensive tool and take ages.
Cabinetman
Sequoia
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2020
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- 5,326
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- Lincolnshire Wolds + Massachusetts
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- Ian
Yes, sorry, I shouldn’t have been so dismissive, I’m sure I would have learnt something had I stuck with it.
Lurker
Old Oak
Yeah,you are right.
Maybe we need to discuss sharpening methods that don’t require much time nor expense :mrgreen:
Maybe we need to discuss sharpening methods that don’t require much time nor expense :mrgreen:
Cabinetman
Sequoia
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- Oct 11, 2020
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- Lincolnshire Wolds + Massachusetts
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- Ian
Hmmm, is that a gauntlet I see thrown down before me?
$40 India combination stone 470 grit, a bit of oil and that’s all folks! And no, my other name isn’t Jacob!
Mods please remove if required.
Ian
$40 India combination stone 470 grit, a bit of oil and that’s all folks! And no, my other name isn’t Jacob!
Mods please remove if required.
Ian
I’d nothing better to do last and watched it at 2x normal speed. I’ve certainly never seen that method before of a spinning disc on the bench drill.
Lurker
Old Oak
Cabinetman":11u4u0il said:
Jacob would never spend that much on a stone.
Eric the Viking
Nordic Pine
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So I watched it. It's basically a cottage-industry advert. Here are the issues, questions it raised for me (well my rough notes, anyway).
- A spinning sandpaper disc is not novel, c.f. Worksharp and others.
- Lots of sparks being emitted imply the edge is overheating and losing its hardness
Disc issues:
(1) periphery cuts far faster than nearer the centre (I have this issue with my slow-speed wet grinder).
(2) If edge is ground on one circumferential circle (approximately), theleading side will cut faster than trailing one (coz it's less clogged), and there is risk of it digging in.
(3) if (2) disc will wear out faster (in rings). I note the YouTuber's jig wasn't fixed, so you could avoid causing wear circles, but that introduces other issues itself, such as chatter (and a risk of digging in.
(4) Excessive off-axis forces are a bad idea with a Morse taper coupling to the shaft. Having a Carroll drum come loose is one thing, having a fast-spinning glass disc quite another.
In short I'd go nowhere near this. If I want a regrind, I'll start on my slow-speed wet grinder, with Scary Sharp, up to 2000 grit to finish. Once at properly sharp, stropping and a touch up is quite sufficient.
Oh and the sharpness measurement method is clever, but only tests one point on the edge, so considerable variation might be expected. It also requires excellent consistency in the preparation/mounting of the test "hair" samples. So I wouldn't consider it more "accurate" than just shaving my forearm...
- A spinning sandpaper disc is not novel, c.f. Worksharp and others.
- Lots of sparks being emitted imply the edge is overheating and losing its hardness
Disc issues:
(1) periphery cuts far faster than nearer the centre (I have this issue with my slow-speed wet grinder).
(2) If edge is ground on one circumferential circle (approximately), theleading side will cut faster than trailing one (coz it's less clogged), and there is risk of it digging in.
(3) if (2) disc will wear out faster (in rings). I note the YouTuber's jig wasn't fixed, so you could avoid causing wear circles, but that introduces other issues itself, such as chatter (and a risk of digging in.
(4) Excessive off-axis forces are a bad idea with a Morse taper coupling to the shaft. Having a Carroll drum come loose is one thing, having a fast-spinning glass disc quite another.
In short I'd go nowhere near this. If I want a regrind, I'll start on my slow-speed wet grinder, with Scary Sharp, up to 2000 grit to finish. Once at properly sharp, stropping and a touch up is quite sufficient.
Oh and the sharpness measurement method is clever, but only tests one point on the edge, so considerable variation might be expected. It also requires excellent consistency in the preparation/mounting of the test "hair" samples. So I wouldn't consider it more "accurate" than just shaving my forearm...