• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Slow hand tools centre bit box wip - finished

Ok, last lap!

With the box beginning to look like a box, I thought the lid was a bit too thick. It's too late to thin the whole thing down, so I just planed a bevel around the rim to make it look a bit lighter.

Before

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During

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After

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This is a trad box out of mahogany so it's getting trad stains and finishes. I did some tests anyway, just to be sure. To darken the mahogany, I used potassium permanganate. I've used it before, on a library chair/steps, but looking it up online now, it seems I may have got myself confused, thinking it was the same thing as bichromate of potash, which certainly does have a history of use as a stain on mahogany.

I'm no chemist, but in my limited experience the pp works just fine and it's too late to tell me that the box will spontaneously combust or be reduced to powder in a week. 8-)

It goes on purple, which you need to be quick to catch in a photo, as it soon turns brown.

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It's fairly easy to get the colour even. As it's water based, I left it overnight to dry. Here the scrap has got a first coat of shellac on as well.

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I'd decided on shellac because I bought a lifetime supply of flakes and 99.9% ethanol to dissolve them in. It's not quite as easy as Osmo Poly-X but you can do several coats in an evening and it's pretty forgiving in use.

Here's the base turning a deeper shade of brown

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For the sides, which are oak, I know from before that the pp doesn't work so well, but I also have some vandyke crystals, already dissolved from before, which are good on oak, so I used that. (I guess I could have used them on the top and bottom too.)

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And here's the whole kit of parts having had somewhere around 8 coats of shellac and an overnight drying session.

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With that all done, it was time to put all the screws in and see if it worked. Here's a posed shot for anyone wondering if I used an impact driver on the screws ;)

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Most of the screws in that piano hinge are the same screws that were in there when it was holding this mahogany in place originally. The piano probably dated to the 1920s but was completely unplayable when it was chucked out and the wood was rescued for me.

As I expected, a round hole in a catch won't close over a stud of the same diameter:

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But a few strokes of a file make it just long enough - phew!

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The bottom needed something to stop it sliding, so I cut some little circles of leather

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and glued them on

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And with that done, I gave the whole box a quick once-over with some Alfie Shine polish that I was given. Here it is:

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And purely for the sake of showing it in daylight, here it is in its temporary place on top of a table I made a few years ago.

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Of course, as anyone who has ever made anything will know, there are improvements that could be made and some of them will be, but I'll call this finished and decide that it's good enough. My immediate problem is to find a place to squeeze it onto a shelf in the workshop - it's handy but it takes up a lot more space than just tipping all the bits into an old biscuit tin! Any way, it's kept me out of mischief for a few weeks while we have all had to stay in more than we would have wanted and I have enjoyed making it, so that's ok by me. I hope you like it too.
 
Loods good Andy and always a learning process. For example, I've just now realised I already have my Father's tool in the shed that is for making leather discs as feet for boxes. :eusa-clap: Never thought of that before. Theres always something in your builds that helps out so thanks for posting.
 
Well done Andy. Nice project, and nice write up too. I think you were definitely right to taper the edges of that lid. I must follow your example, buy some brass, and make my own hinges and catches. That's a great touch.
 
That finishing really adds class. This is the stage at which I usually get impatient, rush and mess it up ! I like your custom brassware too. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and share the process.
 
Most impressive, I thought it was a bit dark at first but it really works and I love the brasswork. And I can only imagine the patience required to do the write-up. Thank you very much. Ian
 
Very interesting AndyT. I do like your catch. Are the bits held down in any way when the lid is closed? (I may have missed it if they are).

Erm, but there's no room for any more bits: does this mean that you won't be buying any more?
 
Thanks again for the comments - you're all much more appreciative than my family!

At the moment, if I turn the box upside down and shake it, some of the bits will come out of their positions. There was a comment early on about using some draught excluder to prevent that, and it would certainly work, but it might look a bit too "modern". I have some thick felt which I could use instead, but it's very white, which I think would also look wrong. So for now at least I'll think I'll solve the problem by not turning the box upside down and shaking it. ;)

One thing I should have said is that yes, I do have more than just these few centre bits. I had got as far as picking out a near-set, choosing those that had suffered the least abuse from previous owners and had been sort of intending to make a box for them. Then I saw these on eBay and gave in to temptation. They are quite unusual in that they are a nice set, not messed about with, all with the same maker's name on and presumably all bought and kept together. They range from 1/4" up to 1 1/4", plus two sizes of countersink. I thought they were a better candidate for a box than a harlequin set would be.

They are all marked for George Palmerston Preston, who was a Sheffield and Doncaster tool dealer from about 1889 through to the early 20th century. Simon Barley illustrates the same script mark on a saw he dates to the 1920s and the eBay seller found a pretty similar signature on Mr Preston's 1911 census form, so I'll just say that they are probably about a century old, though it's impossible to be definite with a long-lasting pattern of tool from a long-lasting supplier.

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Looking in catalogues, these bits were offered in three finishes, black, bright and straw. Most of the other bits I have are black, and a few are straw. These are bright, which I think means they had an extra stage of polishing on a finer wheel. (I'm not sure about the straw bits - would they have been hardened to a higher temperature? ) In the 1925 Melhuish catalogue, a set of a dozen bits cost six shillings in black, 6s 6d in bright and a whopping 7s in straw.

I guess I could make another box or two - watch this space!
 
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