• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Small workshop

Sorry Malcolm and Bob I should have mentioned there is going to be decking in front of the workshop eventually once my finances have recovered a little.
I have just bought another 5 litres of barn paint the old shed is going to have a repaint with proper paint.
Whilst I was out I also found a double socket for £1.30 so I think I am going with plastic sockets. I am going to ask my brother the electrician to check it over before I but a box full :)
 
Mine are all plastic and they're fitted to drywall boxes which I fitted into the 11mm OSB which comprised the face of the trunking.
 
Malc2098":bbeptu1b said:
Mine are all plastic and they're fitted to drywall boxes which I fitted into the 11mm OSB which comprised the face of the trunking.
Click to expand...

I have just googled them they will do for me how did you cut the holes a router ?
 
I'm struggling to remember! Ha!!

I remember drilling 4 holes for the corners, and I think I started using a jig saw, but I have never got on with them, and then I think I changed to the router.
 
Routers are one of the tools I struggle to work with it might be the torque, I searched Malcolm's build thread and he did use a router and template as Bob suggested.
I am thinking 6 sockets on each side wall and 4 on the back wall is there an ideal height above the bench ?
 
MY63":1ufkct3m said:
Routers are one of the tools I struggle to work with it might be the torque, I searched Malcolm's build thread and he did use a router and template as Bob suggested.
I am thinking 6 sockets on each side wall and 4 on the back wall is there an ideal height above the bench ?
Click to expand...

Thanks, my memory's shot these days!

No, no ideal height, just the bottom of it must be higher than your benches and the top of it lower than the window sill.

I also went up and over the doors and those have been useful for fitting fittings to, so nothing has been wasted.
 
Thanks Malcolm your sockets do not seem very high in the pictures can you give me an idea of the height.
I think my leather working side will be higher than the wood working side.
 
MY63":834457o2 said:
Routers are one of the tools I struggle to work with it might be the torque, .....
Click to expand...

It depends very much on which router. Many of them these days have a slow startup that minimises the torque. It also depends on the size and power. Those that can take a 1/2" bit and are 'old-school' like my DW625 are a real thug ! But my smaller Trend (T10 IIRC) has a much more gentle start-up. I also have that Makita that I offered to lend you which is somewhere between the two.
 
930mm is the height off the floor of the bottom of the trunking, which should give sufficient room to fit a bench underneath.
 
RogerS":2oag88ul said:
MY63":2oag88ul said:
Routers are one of the tools I struggle to work with it might be the torque, .....
Click to expand...

It depends very much on which router. Many of them these days have a slow startup that minimises the torque. It also depends on the size and power. Those that can take a 1/2" bit and are 'old-school' like my DW625 are a real thug ! But my smaller Trend (T10 IIRC) has a much more gentle start-up. I also have that Makita that I offered to lend you which is somewhere between the two.
Click to expand...

Mine is an old Bosch I have had it over 20 years it is large and is quite difficult for me to manage as my right wrist is not flexible. I have about 30% range of movement of my left wrist any twisting to tighten the plunge stops would be hard to achieve.
If you little router would do the job then I may be asking to borrow it but if I can buy a suitable tool for a reasonable price then that might be a better option.

Malcolm thanks for the measurement my brother suggested plastic trunking for mounting the sockets but I had already bought some 50mm x 25mm timber and have lots of pieces of OSB left over for thee fronts.
 
MY63":l6tfa2th said:
RogerS":l6tfa2th said:
MY63":l6tfa2th said:
Routers are one of the tools I struggle to work with it might be the torque, .....
Click to expand...

It depends very much on which router. Many of them these days have a slow startup that minimises the torque. It also depends on the size and power. Those that can take a 1/2" bit and are 'old-school' like my DW625 are a real thug ! But my smaller Trend (T10 IIRC) has a much more gentle start-up. I also have that Makita that I offered to lend you which is somewhere between the two.
Click to expand...

Mine is an old Bosch I have had it over 20 years it is large and is quite difficult for me to manage as my right wrist is not flexible. I have about 30% range of movement of my left wrist any twisting to tighten the plunge stops would be hard to achieve.
If you little router would do the job then I may be asking to borrow it but if I can buy a suitable tool for a reasonable price then that might be a better option.

Malcolm thanks for the measurement my brother suggested plastic trunking for mounting the sockets but I had already bought some 50mm x 25mm timber and have lots of pieces of OSB left over for thee fronts.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you have the 1/2" one. 3612 IIRC. I had one of those and it was a thug so I understand where you are coming from. I have the smaller version.
 
PS. I split my 50x25 into to two (25x23) and used that to build the trunking out from the wall.
 
Thanks Malcolm I am going to check with the electrician and make it as small as possible I don't think I will cut down the wood I have I will just get smaller timber I am sure I will find a use for the 50mm x 25mm.

Not a lot happening so far this week I am catching up on case making and we had some rain.

At least the rain has stopped.

2019-04-03_07-29-58 by my0771, on Flickr

I really thought we were done with this :D
 
I got caught twice yesterday in hail showers down here in sunny Devon!
 
Sounds like you have the 1/2" one. 3612 IIRC. I had one of those and it was a thug so I understand where you are coming from. I have the smaller version.[/quote]


The model I have is a Bosch POF 500 A I remembered other than size the main issue is the release mechanism for the plunge is on the right side and I cannot twist my right wrist.
I am going to get it out and see if I can use it the other way around so my left hand does the twisting.
 
MY63":3kcllztl said:
I am going to get it out and see if I can use it the other way around so my left hand does the twisting.
Click to expand...

Yes this is pefectly feasible. Take the slotted screw and washer for the top of the guide post and lift off the router. Pry out the brass slug from the locking side and set aside.

Reassemble the router onto the base and undo the hitherto fixed handle.

Insert the brass slug into that hole and refit the locking knob. Until it settles in, the locking might not be at full strength but soon the brass slug will deform to give a better grip.
I've converted mine to locking both sides with an extra slug.

The POF500 is a lovely little router I have one as my goto router for trimming and chamfering and so light and easy to use compared to the big boys. I really ought to get a spare one from ebay to rob for spares if it ever gives up the ghost and will not respond to treatment.

Bob
 
Thanks Bob :) I now have a plunge mechanism I can work with my left hand.
It appears to have lost the top off one of the handles but that wont stop it working.

2019-04-06_03-36-13 by my0771, on Flickr

It still works too :) I have the box with the fence and a half round piece of plastic I don't think I have the plate with the collar for following a template.
So can I use the fence to cut the horizontal cuts for the sockets and a piece of wood to follow for the verticals.
 
Wow there is a lot to f choice from £3 to £50 I need to cut 16 slots should I buy the cheap one ? I think I want to cut from above so just to be clear I need a flush cutting bit with the bearing at the top. If I went to Axminster and asked for that I would get the right thing.
Thanks again Bob I was sure I was going have to buy a new router. And if it does not work I will sell it :)
 
I'd make sure it is a carbide bit - HSS go blunt very quickly.

If you are prepared to drill a starter hole then you dont need a bit with a bottom cutting blade.

I don't think you need a spiral cut for this job and a single blade will be more than adequate.

I hope that helps the selection process

Bob
 
Malc2098":gqdpy2uu said:
I'm not sure who, but one of the member put me on to this firm for this little doings!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-6-35...151821?hash=item2ed18ca80d:g:RZwAAOxyrrpTjKsn

It cuts on the edge and on the bottom.

I find it leaves a lovely finish to the edge to groove you're cutting, but if you're using it on rough stuff, at this price, it might be worth getting two, one for rough and the other for good work.
Click to expand...
That could of been me, they are very good bits, I have a few from them.
 
Yes. That'll be you, Dave. I also got a 1/2" to go in my big router, too.

Good value and good service.
 
Malc2098":27lwexbr said:
I'm not sure who, but one of the member put me on to this firm for this little doings!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-6-35...151821?hash=item2ed18ca80d:g:RZwAAOxyrrpTjKsn

It cuts on the edge and on the bottom.

I find it leaves a lovely finish to the edge to groove you're cutting, but if you're using it on rough stuff, at this price, it might be worth getting two, one for rough and the other for good work.
Click to expand...

Thanks Malcolm does that type of cutter not require a bearing to follow the template? or does it work in a different way.
 
MY63":1si095y3 said:
Malc2098":1si095y3 said:
I'm not sure who, but one of the member put me on to this firm for this little doings!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-6-35...151821?hash=item2ed18ca80d:g:RZwAAOxyrrpTjKsn

It cuts on the edge and on the bottom.

I find it leaves a lovely finish to the edge to groove you're cutting, but if you're using it on rough stuff, at this price, it might be worth getting two, one for rough and the other for good work.
Click to expand...

Thanks Malcolm does that type of cutter not require a bearing to follow the template? or does it work in a different way.
Click to expand...


Apologies, Michael, I hadn't realised it was a bearing following cutter you were after. No, this one doesn't follow a template. But If ever you do work with a fence etc, they are a lovely cutter.
 
This one looks to be a longer and cheaper version. https://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-f ... 7mm-666107

The one you link to was only 8mm depth of cut and I think you want to go through 11mm OSB?

In any case having a longer cutter might help on future jobs by being more versatile.

Wealden tools are another very well reputed supplier of router cutters with excellent customer service.

Bob
 
Thanks Bob
I had to go out this morning and passed the Axminster store so I nipped in and bought one.
Should I use the fence to make the template? any tips
 
Time is approaching to finish the roof there is some warmer nights coming next week so I decided to make a start on the sheeting.

My original plan was to have the large sheets off set so the joints were not in the same place unfortunately the full sheets were so heavy I was lucky to get them up there let alone put them in the desired place.

2019-04-09_06-17-58 by my0771, on Flickr

2019-04-09_06-17-40 by my0771, on Flickr

I am very pleased with this so far. I am actually a lot futrther on than I was expecting today the Titan track saw was fantastic I was not expecting a lot from it but it surprised me. I had to return my first one as the track did not match up. There is still a slight bump as it passes over the joint but it does not show in the cut.
 
I could not live with all of the joints in a row so I moved the full size sheet on one side to the front and put the piece at the back so they are all staggered.
I spent the afternoon sitting on the roof in the sunshine screwing the OSB in place.
I did take a picture but it is just a mass of OSB :)
 
In my haste to get the roof in place and secured I did not make provision for expansion. As ever I realised this when I woke at 3 am this morning I thought it was a bad dream.

Rather than move the sheets my battery circular saw has a 1.6 mm kerf could i run that along the joint or will it grab and be dangerous
 
If you want a gap,and I know Mike advocates expansion gaps, then using the saw as you propose should be fine.
My workshop roof has no deliberate gaps in the osb and now it is covered with imitation slates and solar panels I can't see if there has been movement over its 10m length in the 13 years is has been up.

I am just an amateur still learning over a few projects, Mike has "shed loads" of experience and is a pro.

Bob
 
I would do exactly as you suggest: quickly run a saw up the gaps. It's a doddle of a job...........but watch out for nails/ screws.

I've had one shed go horribly wrong with tightly fitted OSB. It bowed in and out by 30 or 40mm. Since then I have always advocated a small gap, always used one myself, and have had no further issues. It frankly isn't worth the risk when it is so easy to avoid the problem.
 
Thanks Guys knowing my luck it will wait until I have the rubber fitted and then start expanding I don't think it will take long to do.
I did manage to destroy a circular saw blade last week by forgetting I had put screws in a piece of timber before deciding to cut it. I now have a 24 tooth blade with no teeth at all. Lesson learnt..
 
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