Spindle gouges

[Lons]

Mike, I'd echo what Dave said about honing the edge. It's something I tried for a whil and imho it makes absolutely no difference apart from wasting time and effort. For some time my set up has been a Sorby pro-edge next to the lathe and regular 2 or 3 second touch ups as the edge blunts depending on the wood. Straight off the 120 or 240 grit belt works a treat.
No need for expensive equipment though I just find mine fast and efficient but everyone has their own preferred method and there are a multitude of options.

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

The tang is not strong enough. Just in case you were thinking of giving it a try!
A bowl gouge is somewhat like a spindle gouge (made from round bar) but stronger and with a deeper flute.

Eyebrows zoom upward! So obvious, and yet I never copped that...Thank You Duncan; every waking hour a learning opportunity.

 

[CHJ]

Just in case you have not yet realised, the roughing gouge is properly known as a spindle roughing gouge and should never be used for turning bowls. The tang is not strong enough. Just in case you were thinking of giving it a try!
.......

It seems some folks have to test the theory a few times.

 

[AndyP]

My experience did not qualify me to comment earlier in the thread but I am reassured to know that my method stacks up against the best. I do not remove the burr and I also use the Sorby Proedge. If a linisher is good enough for the Sorby factory then it will do for me too.

 

[Lons]

I wouldn't be without mine Andy so simple, quick and repeatable angles and belts last a long time. Some people say you remove too much metal but I'd say the opposite but even if that was the case you have to look at the whole picture as sharp, predicable tools can mean less spoiled and wasted work, important when you consider the price of decent hardwood.

They are way overpriced for what they are however as is the Axminster version and it's not difficult to rig up a belt sander to get similar results and of course so many viable alternative machines and methods to satisfy the whims of all of us.

 

[Mike G]

Well, I'm glad to hear this. I have my belt sander rigged up in a stand and use it as a linisher. One the rare occasion I regrind primary bevels on my bench chisels, I do it the same way, using a jig to set the angle. So of course, that's the way I do my lathe tools.

 

[AJB Temple]

I use the Sorby too. Had it years and it has paid for itself I think. Agree the belts last ages. Wish it had variable speed control.

 

[Deejay]

Morning Mike

I have my belt sander rigged up in a stand and use it as a linisher.

Any chance of a picture?

Cheers

Dave

 

[CHJ]

I know this is straying further away from the 'Art of Spindle Turning' but may be of interest to those using a Sorby Belt Tool to sharpen Lathe Tools.

I have a few links to my setup going back to 2016 over on the other side that may be of interest.

pre owned Sorby acquisition

My Mods to suit my way of working

In Use Belt Storage Rack

Having gone through all the fads of 'Best Angles' - 'Best Grinds' etc. and differing grinding wheels it all boiled down to a couple of fixed tool holder settings for tool nose settings applied to all my tools and grinders and learning that getting the best out of those settings was as good as my ability is likely to get.

For me:-
Shaping a new tool, 60 grit.
Normal Turning, 120 grit.
Just occasional, 220 grit

 

[Lurker]

Does this help?

AWGB Educational Videos – AWGB

www.awgb.co.uk

 

[Mike G]

Morning Mike

I have my belt sander rigged up in a stand and use it as a linisher.

Any chance of a picture?

Cheers

Dave

Here is my belt-sander holder:



With the tool in place:



One of a number of jigs I use:



Showing the dowels which locate it (them):

 

[Deejay]

Thanks Mike.

Which belts do you use for metal?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Mike G]

Worn out ones. Normally100 grit for sharpening gouges, or old 80 grit for regrinding chisel primary bevels. I take the dust collection bag off when doing steel.

 

[Woodbloke]

I use the Sorby too. Had it years and it has paid for itself I think. Agree the belts last ages. Wish it had variable speed control.

I had one of those things and hated it so sold it on very quickly. The Axminster version has speed control as well as plenty of 'bells n'whistles' - Rob

 

[Deejay]

Worn out ones. Normally100 grit for sharpening gouges, or old 80 grit for regrinding chisel primary bevels. I take the dust collection bag off when doing steel.

Thanks

Ordinary Aluminium oxide it is then. I've got a few of them.

Cheers

Dave

 

[AJB Temple]

I had one of those things and hated it so sold it on very quickly. The Axminster version has speed control as well as plenty of 'bells n'whistles' - Rob

Does it? Can't justify changing mine - it will have to see me out now. I do have to be ever so careful with it as it is quite easy to overheat a thin edge. Also the guard thing on the right is just plain silly.

 

[Woodbloke]

Does it? Can't justify changing mine - it will have to see me out now. I do have to be ever so careful with it as it is quite easy to overheat a thin edge. Also the guard thing on the right is just plain silly.

When I was working for Ax they had a Sorby machine in the R&D room which they ripped to bits in the process of designing their own, much better version. The overheating thingie is one of the reasons that I stuck with my Tormek, slow though it is. The Ax machine will still overheat thin edges in the twinkling of a heartbeat - Rob

 

[AndyP]

Agree about the guard on the Proedge. It needs a quick release system to be useful.

 

[TrimTheKing]

Not as difficult as you might perceive if you make up the equivalent of a Story Board for the major diameter change points and start by using a parting tool and callipers to turn up appropriate aiming points.

And in most projects the odd MM difference in diameter is of no visual consequence.

That's how I was taught to do it when I went on a day's turning course with Richard Findley, who is excellent, lovely guy and good teacher.

 

[CHJ]

I do have to be ever so careful with it as it is quite easy to overheat a thin edge.....

Very early on after my acquisition of the Sorby I found this out, likewise any use of the finer (320,400,800) grit belts I have are of very little use on anything with a fine edge due to lack of coolant.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Surely one of the reasons for using a jig and a constant setting is you remove so little metal you won't burn anything anyway?

 

[CHJ]

Surely one of the reasons for using a jig and a constant setting is you remove so little metal you won't burn anything anyway?

The finer the grit of the abrasive the more cutting points are in contact with the metal, each cutting point is producing friction and therefore generating heat. The high surface speed of the Sorby belts accentuates the problem.

Hence why a Tormek wheel is running with a slower surface speed and in water.

Edit: As an aside to this 'heat' problem, this is the reason for not using worn abrasive or glazed grinding wheel, it has lost its cutting edges and just produces excessive friction without cutting.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Certainly, but the steel is only in contact with the abrasive for second or two, and with little weight behind it. If you're reshaping something, that's different.