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Startrite (275?) tablesaw problem

R

Raymedullary

Sapling
Joined
Jan 20, 2020
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Hi all,
This tablesaw is at school (I teach DT). The problem has arisen following a repair to replace a universal joint on the tilt mechanism carried out by the dept technician. Now with everything put back, (he removed the table) the blade is not parallel to the mitre slots, its out by about 4mm!
Ok I say when I return (I only do 4 days!) it ABSOLUTELY HAS to be set parallel and don't worry there will be an easy adjustment. Its a Startrite ffs.
Searched for a means of adjustment but nothing. There is no obvious way of toeing in/out the blade. There are locating pins through the top of the table going into the main casting assembly of the cradle/blade/motor assembly and that in turn is bolted to the underside of the table but absolutely no adjustment as far as I can see. There is only one so far unsolved thing... there is an adjustment screw accessed through a hole that is hidden under the angle indicator plate on the front of the machine, however this is on the centre line of the blade and seems to do nothing when turned (turns very little) its connected to the third, (lowest) locator lug that rides in the crescent shaped carrier that facilitates the tilt mech.
I'm at a loss. Any help would be very much appreciated!
 
Yes this is the most frustrating thing, there is absolutely nothing obvious that has changed since the repair.
 
He planed the wooden part of the rip fence to a taper (to correct) after it kicked back badly whilst ripping.
I seriously despair sometimes.
 
Oh Dear.
I'm not familiar with that particular saw, but in general there are two options, depending on the construction of the machine.

Is the arbor unit fixed to the table or to the cabinet?

If it is fixed to the cabinet and the table top is also bolted to the cabinet, slacken off the bolts holding the tabletop and rotate the whole table until it is square again.

If the arbor unit hangs from the tabletop, slacken off the bolts that hold it in place and rotate the trunnion assembly.

One or the other should work.

Good luck.
S
PS Sack the technician.
 
Following on from what Steve has written:

I have a Wadkin AGS 10", same problem as you. Table off, pulleys replaced, general maintainence, yada, yada, table back on...but mitre slots WILL NOT line up parallel with blade. Suicidal to use. Khamakhazi woodworker I am not. Exercise vast vocabulary of Anglo-Saxon, Irish, slang, death stare at it for ages...light dawneth!!

On the Wadkin, the arbour is bolted (at 90 degrees) to the main casting hanging vertically inside the saw cabinet. Muggins, the STOOPID one typing this, hadn't noticed the arbour bolts were shimmed. Yes, shimmed, to adjust the angle between the casting and the arbour when it ain't 'a perfect 90' and therefore BONEHEAD, the parallelism between blade and slot. One dead Coke can and some scissor ballet later, arbour is smackeroony on 90, blade and slot are NOW equidistant at all points on the slot. I am so contented I have written to Greene King, suggesting I open a pop-up pub called "The Blade and Slot" at woodworking fairs....
 
If your technician has a birthday coming up, you could treat him to a copy of Tablesaw Essentials. I know the bloke who fronts it can be a know-it-all PITA, sometimes , but within his area of expertise, he knows what he's talking about. This specific adjustment is well covered. It just might save your technician a finger or two...
S
 
I for one, would like to see the new part, as it's obviously the cause.
Perhaps there were washers included for fine tuning, should the part be too small?
or infact none included, and the part actually being spot on, but an unexplainable part present?

Quite pleasing to know things can be adjusted....though I'm holding out on even thinking
about it, from the fence comment. :eusa-think:

Here's likely the best photo of that part I have, sorry it's not great.
SAM_8199.JPG

I had noticed my 275 not staying parallel to mitre slots when tiled, and spent some time pondering
and trying allsorts with shims to no avail.
SAM_8141.JPG
SAM_8158.JPG

And I couldn't get it to move enough to sort
SAM_8128.JPG


I'll be having another go by the looks of things, as its been tipped about quite a bit working on the base.
Just mentioning it's quite a challenge to find a flat spot on the ground for it not to tip about
should that be a factor, for instance, a fouling issue arises when a slidng table is involved,
so perhaps that might explain how one might actually be able to wrangle by the horns?
and assemble something wrong?

The only useful tips I can mention is...should it be that someone's gonna fix it,
Get a length of timber bit longer than the table, for when you remove it, so you can pivot/shimmy it over onto the bench.SAM_8181.JPG

This one I had to learn twice,
Get a bloomin magnet for removing those wee circlips!
SAM_8164.JPG

Cheers
Tom
 
Thank you all for your replies. Steve, the blade assembly is bolted to the table (its also fixed to the machines sheet steel case but that has no effect on it). There are also steel dowels through the top going into the blade assembly that hold it in its factory state. I am now going to look at the repair which was to replace the U.J on the tilt. Perhaps remove it and see if the whole assembly falls back in line here's hoping anyway. I think I have now given up on finding an adjustment as such which does surprise me for a quality machine.
I'm still confused by the screw accessed via the hole that is behind the angle indicator plate that is shown in TomTree's post though.
 
Deema informed me on the other site, that the screw is to account for wear of this piece,
SAM_8149.JPG
or perhaps both that and wear of the slot also,
and possibly be the fix for minute adjustments.

I tried shimming that aswell, with no joy, just a lot of fighting with the thing, and tail chasing,
and I ended back where I started.
Though, worth noting I've made things easier for myself now with the base having shoes,
and not flip flops, which were a pain, especially so for this malarkey,
should the floor not be sound, with suitable means to lift the table, Startrite not having skimped
making that casting!
SAM_8732.JPG

Tom
 
On my table saw the only to get the blade to tip parallel to the table was to make sure both pivots are parallel to the table top.


Pete
 
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