Stool DUN

[Woodbloke]

This is only an estimate guess, Rob, but I reckon the model's bum is smaller than yours. :?

Cheek to cheek comparison? :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

:lol: :lol:

 

[Malc2098]

I can remember a time in my former job where the official minimum European bum size for fitting seats in the back of a van was 14".

 

[Jonathan]

Rob (woodbloke).....nice chair.....would I of met you at a Festool roadshow in Malaga?....if its not you.....you look like the guy I met.

Jonathan

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[Woodbloke]

I can remember a time in my former job where the official minimum European bum size for fitting seats in the back of a van was 14".

Front to back depth of the seat is 350mm which in old money equates to about 14'', but to the point on the seat rest where it touches the small of the back it's about 340mm. Width is 370mm but the profile is tapered, so that's across the middle; big enough for my ar$e and that skinny model's :lol: :lol: (but not at the same time :lol: )
I've just finished machining the ash blocks...



...for all three seats; now they just have to be mixed n'matched to obtain the sizes needed, jointed and then lobbed into the vac bag to form a large chunk of ash 80mm thick.

Rob (woodbloke).....nice chair.....would I of met you at a Festool roadshow in Malaga?....if its not you.....you look like the guy I met.

Jonathan

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Not me I'm afeard; if it was a Festooly roadshow in Japan it might have been me, but again doubtful- Rob

 

[Jonathan]

Ok Rob......guess I met your double.....what where the chances of him also being a woody one.....

Jonathan

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[Woodbloke]

The first chunk of ash for a seat is out the bag...



...and the second one is cooking for the next couple of hours

Legs have also...



...been machined to 50mm square all round, which gives me a bit more material to play with; thems on the prototype were only 40mm square which was a bit tight when it came to do the shaping - Rob

 

[Simon_M]

The first chunk of ash for a seat is out the bag...

Are you the planing the outside edges of the ash (and especially "knocking" the outside corners off the “cube”) before putting it in the vacuum bag – to minimise the risk of damage to the "expensive" bag?

 

[Woodbloke]

The first chunk of ash for a seat is out the bag...

Are you the planing the outside edges of the ash (and especially "knocking" the outside corners off the “cube”) before putting it in the vacuum bag – to minimise the risk of damage to the "expensive" bag?

No need as the job goes inside a large 125 micron thick ordinary plastic bag (prevents the base board being covered in 'squeeze out'), then there's a layer of 600 micron offcuts on top before the main bag itself (again 600 micron), so there's 725 microns of plastic protecting the main polyurethane (not vinyl) bag - Rob

 

[Woodbloke]

Some progress being made on this job though using the Ax 5 tooth tct cutter in the angle grinder is incredibly messy (look what's on the p/t bed):



The 'oles have been drilled in the blocks (but not yet the legs) and after the Ax cutter there's a lot of work with some Ax 'Rider' gouges, which are really rather good and take wicked edge from the leather honing wheels on the Tormek Even so, this ash is incredibly tough and difficult to sculpt; I'm going to use a selection of Saburr rotary burrs on the fiddly bits round the backrest as it's definitely the easiest way of doing the shaping.

After the grinding and gouging, I've used a 40g flap sander( :shock: ) in the angle grinder to do all the preliminary smoothing with a set of rasps from WH to smooth out the edge profile to the pencil line, just above the red felt tip grinding line. Slow and messy work though - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Loving how the grain shows on that ash.

 

[Woodbloke]

Loving how the grain shows on that ash.

Thanks Malc, but you wouldn't Adam n'Eve how tough that ash is to carve. Brilliant for all sorts of stuff but carving and sculpting ain't one (or two) of them - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Loving how the grain shows on that ash.

Thanks Malc, but you wouldn't Adam n'Eve how tough that ash is to carve. Brilliant for all sorts of stuff but carving and sculpting ain't one (or two) of them - Rob

I'd up your shredded wheat intake, if I were you!

 

[Woodbloke]

I've got to a bit of a hiatus with this project(s) as the rear seat back rests have been epoxied in place...



...with a goodly gloop of your very finest Poundland epoxy but the Ash is proving incredibly difficult to carve;



...even using razor sharp 'Rider' gouges from the old firm. The plan is to purchase a few coarse or extra coarse Saburr Tooth rotary burrs from CHT at the International Woodworking Festival this coming weekend where I hope there will be the usual show discount.

I've also fitted, but not epoxied...



...the front legs into position to ensure that the distance they splay at ground level is 460mm, which requires a few delicate shavings on...



...the shooting board - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

I'd swap that tube light for a couple of LED panels. Give you more headroom.

 

[Woodbloke]

I'd swap that tube light for a couple of LED panels. Give you more headroom.

I've thought about that but those tubes are pretty robust and I've never broken one when it's been clonked with a big lump of wood as the whole assembly just moves out the way - Rob

 

[Woodbloke]

Now finished and I never want to see another bit of sandpaper :eusa-whistle:

















Finished with a couple of coats of Osmo Raw with wax over the top - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Tasty! Very, very tasty!

 

[DaveL]

Very curvy!

I guess it was all hand sanded, makes for strong arms and thin fingerprints.

 

[Woodbloke]

Very curvy!

I guess it was all hand sanded, makes for strong arms and thin fingerprints.

I spent a bloody fortune on sanding stuff Dave Initial sanding was done with a 40g(!) flap wheel on the angle grinder, then 80g Abranet on the ROS. The interior curves on the legs were sanded with belts on a pump -up Kirjes sanding system from CHT and then it was progressively sanding down through the grits to 320.

In hindsight (a wondrous thing ) ash being a ring-porous timber was entirely the wrong choice! There are bands of alternate hard and softer grain where the paper tended to 'dig in' so forming a 'wavy' profile in places. It was extremely difficult to carve and even more difficult to sand. The original was made in tighter grained beech (diffuse porous) so it would have been much easier to produce and sand. Were I in the very unlikely event to make another, I'd probably go for a soft maple or sycamore. It's too wasteful to use something like Walnut as an awful lot ends up on the floor as chippings and the rest coats every conceivable 'crook and nanny' in the 'shop with dust when it's sanded.

Did I mention that I never want to see another bit of sandpaper? - Rob

 

[Coley]

Woodwork is spot on, the metal as much as its trying to look part of the project looks an after thought tbh. Difficult job to fulfill and I think you're done the best you could.

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[Woodbloke]

Woodwork is spot on, the metal as much as its trying to look part of the project looks an after thought tbh. Difficult job to fulfill and I think you're done the best you could.

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Not much choice really in the way to do the footrest. If you look at plenty of commercial barstools (eg; the 'Branca' from where I pinched the backrest), more often than not the footrest is a chunk of thin metal tube just screwed in place; mine happens to be a bit more substantial

I put a few pics on Instagram last night and almost instantly somebody wanted to buy them, which left me feeling chuffed - Rob

 

[9fingers]

I put a few pics on Instagram last night and almost instantly somebody wanted to buy them, which left me feeling chuffed - Rob

You could start up a small production run and design in a wooden foot rest? :lol:

Bob

 

[AndyP]

if I had a bar to sit at Id be happy to sit on one of those Rob. Excellent as always.

What's with those little holes?

 

[Woodbloke]

Them little 'oles, as I was explaining to Mark on FB, are to let out the excess epoxy. If they weren't there, it would be impossible to pull up the joint (I know 'cos I've tried it) as it would then suffer from 'hydraulic lock' as you're trying to compress epoxy and it's got nowhere to go - Rob

 

[AndyP]

Ah, I see and FB?

 

[Woodbloke]

You could start up a small production run and design in a wooden foot rest? :lol:

Bob

You can do the production run Bob as I've had enough of bloody sanding :lol: I suppose, yes, a wooden footrest could be designed in but it would still wear rapidly so it would need to capped on the bearing surface with something like a strip of stainless. At the time No.1 son requested footie rests the front legs had already been epoxied in place, so it was a bit late - Rob

 

[Woodbloke]

Ah, I see and FB?

Facebook or Fazboz as my son calls it :lol: - Rob

 

[AndyP]

I’ve tried FB a couple of times but soon got fed up with the unsolicited stuff thats seems to get through.

 

[RogerS]

Ah, I see and FB?

I thought the little holes were woodworm but didn't like to ask !

 

[Phil]

That is extremely very smart! :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:


bscene-drinkingcheers:

 

[Woodbloke]

Ah, I see and FB?

If you look carefully Rog, you'll observe that they're more or less equidistant from the joint line which is roughly the bottom of the dowel hole - Rob

 

[Mike G]

Lovely, lovely stools.............except for that footrest, I'm afraid.

 

[Coley]

Regarding the holes, I thought epoxy maintained its strength even if gappy? Would a slot in the joining dowel allowed the epoxy to escape? I wonder if the footrest may have looked better on the back of the legs or better still morticed inbetween?

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[RogerS]

Surely easier just to reduce the length of the legs ? :eusa-whistle:

 

[Coley]

Surely easier just to reduce the length of the legs ? :eusa-whistle:

[emoji2960][emoji23]

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[Phil]

Surely easier just to reduce the length of the legs ? :eusa-whistle:

Then your rear would be closer to the ground, not a stool anymore but a highchair for the kids.

:lol: :lol:

 

[Woodbloke]

Regarding the holes, I thought epoxy maintained its strength even if gappy? Would a slot in the joining dowel allowed the epoxy to escape? I wonder if the footrest may have looked better on the back of the legs or better still morticed inbetween?

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It does I think and there aren't any gaps; as for a slot in the dowel, they happen to be 12mm thick solid steel threaded dowels, each one is 150mm long. You might choose to make a slot down the length, but it's not something I was going to do . If they were morticed in between, the assembly of the front legs would have been a nightmare; it was bad enough as it was.

Lovely, lovely stools.............except for that footrest, I'm afraid.

Thanks Mike, but as the man said ''you can fool all the people some of the time etc, but I was mightly chuffed to receive an almost instant offer of purchase when the pics were posted on InstaG, so they can't be too shabby n'est pas? - Rob

 

[Coley]

A grinder in threaded bar would have made light work of making a groove length ways. The sheer quality is obvious to anyone but I have to query the addition of 'woodworm' holes when an alternative was easy to achieve? They look fantastic regardless [emoji6]

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[Woodbloke]

A grinder in threaded bar would have made light work of making a groove length ways. The sheer quality is obvious to anyone but I have to query the addition of 'woodworm' holes when an alternative was easy to achieve? They look fantastic regardless [emoji6]

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Fair enough, that's doable, but I chose to make some little 'oles. To be fair, once you see the stools 'in the wood" you don't really notice the holes as they appear to be highlighted by the pics - Rob