• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Table Saw

Phil":wgx4066b said:
Erich, that's quite bad losing a tile on the garage roof. Does lots of damage.

We had the same storm winds driving through, but no damage in our area.
In the estate next to us (Meadows) a lot of houses lost their barge boards.
There were also a lot of uprooted trees in both estates.

On the previous go-around we had uprooted trees and broken branches, but this time was fairly sedate in comparison, the tiles must have been loosened during the previous storm...

Hopefully I will be able to spen some time in the garage and test everything soon.
 
After some closer inspection I found that during my attempt at "aligning" the saw I actually managed to let the carrier slip out of the trunnion, which is why the saw suddenly got stuck on the frame... After another couple of hours of fiddling and struggling I have managed to get the saw back onto the trunnion and aligned and the saw now does not interfere with the frame, it also seems to cut straight, so I'm very relieved.

I also found a bit of time and decided to tackle one of the rusted planes, I used some tool in a can and 800 grit water paper to remove the rust, all in it took about an hour which isn't too bad. I'm also quite happy with the results, there are some deep stains that won't come out, but the rust is gone and the plane is usable again, now I just need to get that grind stone back out as the blade is in serious need of sharpening!

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before and after.

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Some closeup's.

I intend to give the vinegar trick a try with the other one, just to see how it compares.
 
Nice, Erich. Once my 'shop is built I've got a couple to do, so will be nicking your best tips!
 
Thanks Malcolm, this is actually the very first one I have done, so I'm by no means an expert, but it looks to have turned out ok. I actually found some of my files are also very rusted so I hope the vinegar trick works well as I would like to use it on them. In my case it was surface rust, so it ended up taking less effort than expected, for heavy rust this method might not word so well, but the "tool in a can" stuff should at least stop any future rust.
 
My tools and machines have been in damp storage for so long, even my lovely Japanese chisels, a retirement present from the Police, 16 years ago, are rusted. They and the planes will be my fist task when the 'shop is built.
 
Malc2098":2lmf0ye0 said:
My tools and machines have been in damp storage for so long, even my lovely Japanese chisels, a retirement present from the Police, 16 years ago, are rusted. They and the planes will be my fist task when the 'shop is built.

I would love to see some photos of what they looked like before and after treatment, I'm sure there will be plenty of lessons learned along the way!
 
Commander":fii3k5dc said:
Malc2098":fii3k5dc said:
My tools and machines have been in damp storage for so long, even my lovely Japanese chisels, a retirement present from the Police, 16 years ago, are rusted. They and the planes will be my fist task when the 'shop is built.

I would love to see some photos of what they looked like before and after treatment, I'm sure there will be plenty of lessons learned along the way!

Good idea, Erich. I'll programme that in. Thanks.

Ever seen an orange cast iron BS table?!
 
Malc2098":kjkt7tlw said:
Commander":kjkt7tlw said:
Malc2098":kjkt7tlw said:
My tools and machines have been in damp storage for so long, even my lovely Japanese chisels, a retirement present from the Police, 16 years ago, are rusted. They and the planes will be my fist task when the 'shop is built.

I would love to see some photos of what they looked like before and after treatment, I'm sure there will be plenty of lessons learned along the way!

Good idea, Erich. I'll programme that in. Thanks.

Ever seen an orange cast iron BS table?!

:lol: I have not, but I have a feeling I will soon!
 
Malc2098":b9ofqnem said:
Commander":b9ofqnem said:
Malc2098":b9ofqnem said:
My tools and machines have been in damp storage for so long, even my lovely Japanese chisels, a retirement present from the Police, 16 years ago, are rusted. They and the planes will be my fist task when the 'shop is built.

I would love to see some photos of what they looked like before and after treatment, I'm sure there will be plenty of lessons learned along the way!

Good idea, Erich. I'll programme that in. Thanks.

Ever seen an orange cast iron BS table?!


I'm beginning to wonder if the RSPCT should be tipped off about our Malc and his tools :lol:

Bob
 
Eventually I'm back from a lovely holiday and this past weekend I managed to find a couple of hours to work on the work bench. I added the tops of the frame and glue and screw them down.

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(My apologies for some of the photos being rather poor quality.)

I then placed the top I intended to use on to the frame and found it wasn't quite big enough to make proper use of the size of the frame, luckily I had a second top up in the rafters that I could use, the only problem was to access it I had to take all the stuff stacked on top off, and then maneuver it down, put the top I thought of using back in its place and put back all the stuff that was up there in the first place. This was a bit of an operation and I spared a thought for my ladder as I'm a hefty fellow and the 1900x900x35mm post form top also doesn't come in light. No photos unfortunately as my hands were a bit full! :lol:

Next step was to measure and cut out a corner of the top to accommodate the steel saw table, i did this with the circular saw trying not to overlap the cuts, I finished it off with a hacksaw blade as I don't have a jigsaw and I didn't want to try and flip the top over (the piece would definitely have broken out leaving a mess).

After that I made some spacers to try and line up the top as close as possible to the saw table.

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The difference in height before fitting spacers.

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A stack of spacers.

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Spacers installed.

I then put the top on and clamped it down, I didn't have my long screws at hand to permanently fix the top, I will do that shortly and post more pics.

Thanks for looking!
 
Thanks Tusses, I agree that would probably be the better solution, I had to make a couple of changes to the design while building one of which included spacing the saw to accommodate the droop of the motor, so in effect the saw is spaced, it is just spaced so much that I had to space the table top as well :lol: :cry:

I forgot to say that I also added the dust drawer and it has caught quite a bit of dust already, not close to fully air tight, but it is much better than not having anything.

As for completing the project I have a feeling it will keep evolving as time goes by and I think up more things that I want to do. In the near future though I want to add the rest of the drawers, make shelfs for storage, add convenient power outlets and look at adding a router table to the far end. I actually spent about 45mins working at the table on a small side project and I'm pleased with the height, things also get done much faster if you don't have to constantly move stuff around!
 
Tusses":1rjeqbbp said:
getting there ! :-)

if it was me, I'd make the top slightly high .. and shim the saw to match

keep it up !
Good thread !

:text-goodpost:

:text-+1:



Erich, what are you using for the top? MDF or propoer timber?


Commander":1rjeqbbp said:
I actually spent about 45mins working at the table on a small side project and I'm pleased with the height, things also get done much faster if you don't have to constantly move stuff around!

Fully agree with this.
 
You are getting there Erich. Keep it up.

Have you considered an out feed extension table of some sort to aid ripping long stock? This could be hinged at the back and supported either by a folding leg or a swing out bracket.
 
Thanks for the compliments gents!

Phil, I'm using a post form type top, I think it should do the trick and I had one lying around.

Andy, the top does come round the back of the saw but would fall a bit short if I have to cut really long pieces of lumber, I have thought about it but will probably only implement it at a later stage. I think the hinged version would work best, preferably with a leg that is supported on the trolley itself (coming back at an angle). I do have a bit of a space problem as it is, so ripping very long items would have to happen outside.
 
Commander":27si3coz said:
Phil, I'm using a post form type top, I think it should do the trick and I had one lying around.

Erich,

That would most likely be 32mm PB with some HPL stuck on it.

Maybe have a loose sacrificial piece of MDF to not damage the HPL?
 
Phil, in hind sight it would have been a good idea to do so, but I would have to make some changes to the design to accommodate an additional sheet on top of the current top, so for the time being I will leave it as it is.
 
SO over the weekend I managed to take a couple of photo's of what the top looks like. I'm already well into my latest project (as can be seen by the saw dust and shavings all over the place! :lol: ). I have to say I'm really enjoying the the new work space.

I also managed to use the router to add a chamfer to the back edge of the top. I have on occasion had items catch the edge when ripping, so hopefully this will solve the problem completely.

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the saw table is ever so slightly higher than the workbench.

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Just enough clearance for the fence to move freely. (Note, I took this picture before chamfering the edge.

I also managed to clean up my 2nd plane using the vinegar method, I will post a quick wright-up a little later.
 
Thanks for the kind words gents, I have to say I'm very pleased with it so far, makes a huge difference to the work shop, I should have done this a long time ago...
 
I have been meaning to do a quick wright-up about using vinegar to clean up rust, so here it is eventually!

Here are some before pics:

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Even the wooden handle looks worse for ware:

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My first challenge was finding a container big enough to put the plane in, I eventually settled on a paint tray. The vinegar was diluted to about 50/50 with normal tap water, however I didn't measure this actually, it was more of an eye ball measurement. I started off with brushing the solution on with an old toothbrush and that actually worked pretty well right off the bat, however that is still a lot of work, so I wanted to soak the plane and see what would happen.

The plane soaked for about 3 days (I probably should have taken it out a little sooner, but things were just too busy to get round to it).

nna3Vuo.png

As you can see I still didn't manage to submerge the whole plane, I did however manage to soak the parts. The solution was very dark and there was some foam on top showing me a chemical reaction as definitely taking place.

After taking it out of the solution it did still require a lot of brushing though...

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But with some brushing the change was very apparent!

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I then started with "tool-in-a-can" and some fine water paper to clean up the residue and remaining rust. It did also seem necessary as the plane started to rust up again within minutes.

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Here you can see the difference between the 2 blades, one cleaned with tool-in-a-can and sanding only (in the plane) and one first cleaned with the vinegar method and finished with tool-in-a-can (in my hand). It did however for some reason leave the change in colour as can be seen just below the slot, I suspect this might be where the blade was hardened. It did seem to remove the outer finish of the blade as well, so I'm not sure if it will retain an edge as well as before.

Here is the final side by side comparison, the small plane was cleaned with tool-in-a-can only while the larger plane was done with vinegar.

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The results look similar but I would say the vinegar plane is more uniformly clean.

So in conclusion I'm a little in two minds here, the vinegar method does work, but it has a couple of drawbacks:
1) Finding a large enough tray/container to soak the rusty item in (not always a problem, but will be in many cases)
2) The item has to soak for a bit.
3) It seems to remove the finishing from some metal parts, so I guess you will have to be careful on what exactly you use it on.
4) You still have to brush the item, so some elbow grease involved.
5) You still have to sand a bit and apply machine oil of some sort to protect the metal.

This may be a good method for heavily rusted items or items that prohibit sanding down (lots of small details etc.), but for simple items I think just sanding down with a fine water paper and machine oil is quicker and just as effective.

I hope someone finds this useful, thanks for looking!
 
Erich

Nice job. Plane looks good.

Is the tool-in-a-can similar to Q20?

Did you have a look at what Wallace does on his machine refurbishment? (cleaning, polishing etc.) as a different approach to vinegar?
 
Good job Erich. Can you get hold of some Camillia Oil, or similar, to wipe over and protect the planes now that they are all nice and shiny?
 
Thanks for the comments gents!

Phil, I'm a big fan of Wallace's work on the Wadkin machines, very impressive and I'm sure he could do a better job of it. I don'y have most of the specialised equipment he uses though. And I would say tool in-a-can is very similar to Q20, it also comes in a aerosol can and its intended function is the same, as I recall I bought it one day when I couldn't find normal Q20.

Andy, I think the tool in-a-can will perform the same function, I will however keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to rust. How often do you re-apply the Camillia oil? I'm guessing the thin coating will wear off as the plane is in use?

Also, I haven't repainted the handle yet as I'm not to sure what to use, any ideas? (I sanded it down to bare wood as the varnish was ruined, I would want to seal it again before using it.)
 
Commander":1ih1z6eh said:
Andy, I think the tool in-a-can will perform the same function, I will however keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to rust. How often do you re-apply the Camillia oil? I'm guessing the thin coating will wear off as the plane is in use?A

The stuff I have comes in a little spay bottle. A quick spray and a wipe, and (expect much mirth from the back) I then put them into socks before they go in the tool cabinet drawer.
 
I have started using Boeshield. Not cheap but dries like a hard wax/PTFE style surface sealing the metal for ages and only comes off on the planing surface so rarely needs topping up.

I suffer from terminal and potent rustfinger so I need to protect any and all of my Iron based tools from my corrosive digits and have tried camelia, wd40, veg oil and many more and found that Boeshield is far and away the best product, but at a price.

I bought it on a 2-for-1 from Rutlands last time I think which made it much more acceptably priced.

Cheers
Mark
 
I prefer not to paint or varnish the handles, I use an oil finish. I like the Chestnut hard wax oil, but don't know if you can get it over there, I have used Danish oil or Finishing oil they work OK but are not as hard wearing.
Go job on removing the rust, I use Lubricating wax on my hand tools as well as on machines, stop rust and helps them slide.
 
Thanks for the tips! I think a lubricating wax would be great as it has the dual functions. I will have to do a bit of searching for some of the names and items mentioned.
 
Thanks, Erich.

Notes taken for when I have to do mine, and I'll do a before and after post, too.
 
I was going to suggest that you needed a plane otherwise you could never get the best out of the saw ...and that it was plain dangerous ....Good to see you've got some ..and a very nice job you've made of them too !
Now your gonna get precision ..the plane is the ultimate tool for accuracy and if ya use the plane as well as ya clean em up, theirs no going back now ...
What sort of bench do you have ?
 
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