• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

The Anarchists Stool?

C

Charlotte

Seedling
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
41
Reaction score
8
Location
Chertsey for now
Hey everyone, it's been a while, a few countries, a few shops, but I made a thing. It's not quite finished - can't decide what colour to paint the legs and tenons need trimming. These pics are all from final assembly - it's just gone crack with the pic of me in it - and I had to remake the rear undercarriage stick.

Entirely hand tools - necessity rather than choice! Spalted fence post and old window sill (doug fir(prob) and sapele).View attachment 32278View attachment 32280View attachment 32282IMG_0477.jpgView attachment 32275View attachment 32276IMG_0459.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0479.jpg
    IMG_0479.jpg
    65 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0476.jpg
    IMG_0476.jpg
    45.8 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0474.jpg
    IMG_0474.jpg
    62.3 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0462.jpg
    IMG_0462.jpg
    68.2 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0461.jpg
    IMG_0461.jpg
    78.4 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0455.jpg
    IMG_0455.jpg
    64 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0454.jpg
    IMG_0454.jpg
    63.3 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0450.jpg
    IMG_0450.jpg
    202.5 KB · Views: 34
If ever I were to make a stool then it would be like that with 3 legs. Looks very smart.
Why paint it? A natural wax or oil with those contrasting timbers looks ok to me.
There’s a very good recipe here for a durable easy to apply finish
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

Was Sam Maloof finish - now added Mike's Magic Mix

I have copied this from Bob's post. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2613 That mixture has been long known as an "oil/varnish" mixture. It was probably first publicized in the 1960's when Watco came out with their then "magic" finish. Here is something I found that sort of summarizes the whole "Maloof...
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk
 
I can't recommend making one enough, it was a real test of skill and patience making the tooling to get the job done. Paint - because there are a couple of knots I'd like to loose - and because I'll like the contast! The sapele I think will get Libron finishing oil (tung oil + god knows what)and will come up a treat once everything is trimmed down.
 
Excellent Charlotte. Well done.

Just one teeny little thing if I may.... When you wedge a tenon, you are also effectively wedging the material into which the tenon fits. Therefore, your wedge should be at right angles to grain of the seat. One more blow of the hammer might have split the seat, and indeed, it might have set up stresses such that the seat splits in future.

Why "anarchist's"? I wasn't aware that anarchists needed to sit on un-even floors. :)
 
AndyP said:
If ever I were to make a stool then it would be like that with 3 legs. Looks very smart.
Why paint it? A natural wax or oil with those contrasting timbers looks ok to me.
There’s a very good recipe here for a durable easy to apply finish
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

Was Sam Maloof finish - now added Mike's Magic Mix

I have copied this from Bob's post. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2613 That mixture has been long known as an "oil/varnish" mixture. It was probably first publicized in the 1960's when Watco came out with their then "magic" finish. Here is something I found that sort of summarizes the whole "Maloof...
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk
Click to expand...
I have to agree with Andy and forgo the paint brush; the knots are part of the timber and should, in my very 'umble opinion be seen, not covered up. As to the the so called 'Maloof' finish, however it's made, I've tried it and can't get along with it so I use my remaining concoction for picture frames. Liberon 'Finishing Oil' is good but you'll need severial coats. The Paduk stand on the current project is being finished with:

03AEF274-607E-4EDB-982F-CDFF779D33FC.jpg

...a single coat of Rubio Oil (that's all it takes) and when hardened off, a coat of wax polish will be applied - Rob
 
Charlotte said:
Hey everyone, it's been a while, a few countries, a few shops, but I made a thing. It's not quite finished - can't decide what colour to paint the legs and tenons need trimming. These pics are all from final assembly - it's just gone crack with the pic of me in it - and I had to remake the rear undercarriage stick.

Entirely hand tools - necessity rather than choice! Spalted fence post and old window sill (doug fir(prob) and sapele).View attachment 32278View attachment 32280View attachment 32282View attachment 32283View attachment 32275View attachment 32276View attachment 32288
Click to expand...
Nice Charlotte, is the stool to remain in the shop?
 
Mike G said:
Excellent Charlotte. Well done.

Just one teeny little thing if I may.... When you wedge a tenon, you are also effectively wedging the material into which the tenon fits. Therefore, your wedge should be at right angles to grain of the seat. One more blow of the hammer might have split the seat, and indeed, it might have set up stresses such that the seat splits in future.

Why "anarchist's"? I wasn't aware that anarchists needed to sit on un-even floors. :)
Click to expand...
Yes - next time I'll work harder on tenon alignment - it does fall down in this area aesthetically, but it's only a shop stool! But I did think that this picture showed the tenon I nailed - have I got it 90 degrees out?! I'm now looking at it and thinking I might wanna get some steaming cloths out!

Anarchists in reference to The Anarchist's Design Book from which I cribbed the "how to"
 
Cabinetman said:
I like the rusticness of it, good trick using a ring spanner.
I’m thinking a Matt milk paint finish, pastel colour?
Click to expand...
It's not stupid if it works! Yeah, that sort of direction, something pretty low key and easy to touch up. I'm sure I'll repaint to match my new shop, whenever that happens
 
You’re not the first one to make that mistake and certainly won’t be the last.
I did the same 5 years ago , the wedges are the two darker walnut pieces top and bottom of each tenon.
IMG_3894.jpeg
Seems to have held up will with daily usage but as the ends to this wee bench are actually solid they will not be under the same forces as your legs.

Not many of us can boast upholstered furniture in their workshops, looks cozy.
 
Charlotte said:
Yes - next time I'll work harder on tenon alignment - it does fall down in this area aesthetically, but it's only a shop stool! But I did think that this picture showed the tenon I nailed - have I got it 90 degrees out?!
Click to expand...

This picture:

img_0477-jpg.32283


shows the wedge in-line with the grain of the seat. That means that, as it pushes the tenon apart, it'll be trying to split the seat along its grain lines. If the wedge were horizontal in that picture, it'd be trying to stretch the seat along its grain lines (which it won't be able to do, so that's fine).

It's much easier to split a piece of wood along the grain lines (i.e. in that picture, imagine the seat being split into a left and right half) than it is to split a piece of wood across the grain lines (i.e. in that picture, imagine the seat being split into a top and bottom half). You want the wedge to be trying to split the wood in the way that it won't succeed.

That is (my understanding of) why the wedge should always be perpendicular to the grain lines of the material with the mortice. What you've done is put the wedge perpendicular to the grain lines of the tenon but parallel with the grain lines of the mortice. I'm not sure whether it matters whether the wedge is parallel/perpendicular to the tenon grain. Others may be along shortly to comment on that bit!
 
These stools have great charm, I'm particularly a fan of the smaller 4-legged stools that are also in the book.
 
Dr.Al said:
I'm not sure whether it matters whether the wedge is parallel/perpendicular to the tenon grain. Others may be along shortly to comment on that bit!
Click to expand...
I don't think it matters.

Some like to get the wedges started by splitting the end of the tenon with a chisel before hammering in the wedge. If you're doing that, then I suppose you might want to consider how the split might progress along the tenon. However, I think it's more normal to saw a slit in the tenons for the wedges to go into, and it you do that then I can't see the orientation makes any difference (unless there's some aesthetic aspect).

The stool looks good Charlotte.
 
I like T-bar stools, I have one in my own workshop.
Yes, the wedge should go in the direction of the grain in the tenon, but perpendicular to it in the seat. But quite honestly, once the whole thing is glued together, and there is no more force being placed on the tenon itself, it probably won't make much difference.
So from a trad point of view you are 90 degrees out, but that is still a fine-looking stool. And all with hand-tools, too. Bravo!
S
 
Cabinetman said:
That’s a very comfortable looking seat Pete.
Click to expand...
They are very comfortable I could sit for hours on one. The heights of the stretcher is very important to low and the edge of the seat puts pressure on your legs to high and you feel unbalanced.

Pete
 
oh wow, from green! Is there a wip for your scorp somewhere? Although I'm not skilled with drawknives and I figure they might be the first thing to learn? I'm v familiar with an angle grinder if I get desperate!
 
Charlotte said:
oh wow, from green! Is there a wip for your scorp somewhere? Although I'm not skilled with drawknives and I figure they might be the first thing to learn? I'm v familiar with an angle grinder if I get desperate!
Click to expand...
Hi Charlotte

I don't have a wip for it sorry, here are some of the tools I made to make the stools including the scorp.

Chair and stool making tools by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

Pete
 
In my mind a scorp is a curved draw knife (though some are one handed curved knives) and a travisher like a spokeshave with the curve side to side rather than front to back.
 
I had a douglas fir felled in 2020 that has spent a couple of years outside and two years in the garage. I think I have just discovered what to do with what is left. Thank you Charlotte and Pete for the inspiration.:unsure:
IMG_0819.jpeg
And of course with a birthday coming I can justify a new tool purchase, or two.
 
AndyP said:
I had a douglas fir felled in 2020 that has spent a couple of years outside and two years in the garage. I think I have just discovered what to do with what is left. Thank you Charlotte and Pete for the inspiration.:unsure:
View attachment 32345
And of course with a birthday coming I can justify a new tool purchase, or two.
Click to expand...
I see a Froe purchase coming, and the first thing to make is a big heavy mallet to thump it with.
Green woodworking is something I’d like to revisit.
 
AndyP said:
What type of cutting/shaping disc did you use Rob?
Click to expand...
When I had mine, I used an Arbortech disc. It has teeth like a chainsaw, but on a disc. I have no idea if they are still available. It was scary.
The advert for it showed a rocking horse with the caption, "How to make a rocking horse..." Then, below it, in smaller letters, "take a big piece of wood and cut off everything that doesn't look like a horse!".
Smart Alec.
 
AndyP said:
What type of cutting/shaping disc did you use Rob?
Click to expand...
Forget the name (bought from Ax) but it was a series of tct cutters, semi-circular in profile arranged around the periphery of the disc; absolutely lethal and could chew off vast amounts of timber in a heartbeat. Bloody thing scared me witless and I've never used it again - Rob
 
You could probably use an adze too, but I don’t know that those are any easier to find than a scorp. I’ve only used mine a few times but it was actually pretty fun.
 
AndyP said:
What type of cutting/shaping disc did you use Rob?
Click to expand...

I can recommend the Kutzall "Extreme" very coarse discs from Classic Hand Tools, they're more of an aggressive abrasive tool than the Arbortec discs so they do work slower but leave a reasonable finish as well as being very controllable. I found that they worked exceptionally well in hardwood, but incredibly messy and dusty, so best used outside. You can buy similar discs to the Kutzall off Amazon for a fraction of the price, though I'm not sure what the quality is like.

However, I'm not sure how well they will work in Douglas Fir as they are an abrasive tool, so they may be prone to clogging with the softer sappy fibres which may be where the Arbortec Turboplane may be a better choice as it cuts rather than abrades. I would definitely avoid any of the knock-off versions of the Turboplane for the simple fact that you can never be sure of the quality of the brazing on the carbide teeth and you certainly don't want one of those coming off at ~125mph when you're working with it at around gut height.

https://www.classichandtools.com/kutzall-4-12-shaping-dish-extreme/p2787

https://www.classichandtools.com/arbortech-turbo-plane/p154

Of course, as already mentioned, they are very loud and messy. A scorp is much quieter and doesn't make such a colossal mess.
 
I’m quite happy to be patient so the less expensive coarse kutzall maybe the way to go. I reason that coarse will get clogged up less. Finishing with a travisher.
 
I saw a good friend of mine using a travisher he bought from James Mursell at the Windsor Workshop

He challenged me to make my own, and as a start drew round the parts on a sheet of paper. That sheet of paper served as my plan, you can see it almost went up during the making of the cutting iron. OK, it's a long way short of a work in progress, but these are the pictures I could find.





I have parts of a scorp, which is still a work in progress after probably 10 years !
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top