But the chamfers around the holes aren’t just polished as I said before, they look burnished, must be the nature of that blinking hard wood!
I suppose in a way they are burnished Ian. What I actually did was to put the countersink cutter into the pillar drill chuck and then bring it down as far as it would go and
no further. Then I positioned the job on the table and raised it so that a small chamfer was cut, but the cutter couldn't go any deeper and so burnished the cut. If you look at the 'oles, they're all identical with exactly the same chamfer on each hole, so doing as described is the only way to achieve exactly the same degree of countersinking on each hole.
I started the back panel yesterday and made some progress. From another block of Bubinga, I cut several strips for the back panel, drum sanded to about 2mm thick and arranged thus:
I appreciate this isn't the most wonderful arrangement but it's the best I could do, bearing in mind that I've got limited quantities of Bubinga. Each bit was shot in on my veneer shoot:
....which is simply two bits of Melamine faced chipboard screwed together. Simple but it works! Once the first joint has been shot in:
....they can be placed on the table as shown and tested for a 'watertight' fit, adjusting with a shaving here and there until it's perfick along the entire length. The joint is then pulled tight with a really good quality, stretchy tape (Scotch here but Tesa is equally as good) and pressure rolled with a heavy duty steel roller:
Rinse and repeat for all the bits until the Bubinga 'lay up' is done n'dusted. I then found a lump of decent, knot free (almost) pine for the balancer on the back:
....and the jointing process was repeated. The last thing to do was to use some genuine, proper paper veneer tape:
....over the joints. As the paper tape is applied wet, once dry it will further pull the joint together as it drys and shrinks slightly. Having sorted out a bit of 3mm ply, both sides will be glued in one hit tomorrow morning in the AirPress vacuum bag - Rob
