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The Yaca Cabinet

Woodbloke

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I thought so too....what the hell's 'yaca'? It transpires that it's resinous softwood from the South Pacific. Google AI has this to say about it:

'AI Overview

Yaca (often spelled
Yaka or Dacrydium nidulum) is a premium, versatile softwood timber native to the South Pacific, specifically Fiji, where it is highly valued for high-end furniture and interior applications. It is often referred to as Pacific Rimu due to its similar appearance and properties.

Key Characteristics of Yaca Timber

  • Appearance: The heartwood ranges from pale yellowish-brown to golden or reddish-brown, often featuring subtle dark streaks. It has a fine, smooth texture and straight, sometimes wavy, grain.
  • Density & Strength: Yaka is a moderately dense and durable timber, making it strong yet easy to work with for both builders and craftsmen.
  • Durability: While durable for indoor use, it is best suited for interior applications rather than direct ground contact.
  • Workability: The timber takes well to polishing, staining, and oiling, allowing it to fit into both modern and traditional designs'.
It appears that JK somehow got hold a small parcel of this stuff in the 80's and decided to build a veneered cabinet from it and as I was noodling through The Krenov Archive at the weekend, I had a fancy to have a go at making something similar. I didn't have any Rimu (though we saw plenty in NZ) but I did have a couple of thick, not very good lumps of English Walnut, with knots, splits etc, so not my best purchase by a long shot:

IMG_6519.jpeg

...but I was determined to get all the veneers for the cabinet from these two chunks. Now anybody who's attempted to make a JK piece will know that there are never any working drawings to tell you what to do or how big to cut the wood. At best, you may find a sketch or two in one of his books. It's all done 'on the fly' or a 'wing and a prayer'. In addition, there's a lot of this:

web-jk-1983-pieces-yaca_cabinet-4-300x199.jpg

...going on with any JK piece! However, if you look at the image above, the workbench on the lhs (assuming a standard height) will be 85cm high, so with some cunning deduction, I've estimated that the height of the rear panel is about 40-45cm and from that it's relatively easy to guesstimate what the other dimensions ought to be....roughly.

There was a lot of chopping and hacking over the last two days, with a load of angst to decide where to saw to convert it into manageable lumps, but once I'd sorted that out, bookmatched slices for the top and bottom:

IMG_6535.jpeg

...were cut. The sides proved problematic:

IMG_6538.jpeg

...with some decisions to be made later on where to cut away the waste form a decent bookmatch. The other side wasn't too bad, but was left over size as well;

IMG_6536.jpeg

...and may need a couple of bits slip matched to obtain the right width....we shall see!

The back panel (interior) turned out quite well and again is over size:

IMG_6539.jpeg

...and the rear panel (exterior) was made up of bits slip matched together:

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If you look closely, bits 8,9,10 &11 came from a separate bit of walnut, but it's not too shabby a match and you'd probably be hard pressed to see it if you didn't know! So, by COP (Mike G knows what that is:ROFLMAO:) I had an assembly table:

IMG_6541.jpeg

...full of parcels of bandsaw veneer and I've still got some lumps of walnut left as well!

In case you're wondering, the frame will be made from Swiss Pear (of which I have loads), a possible leg or two being shown below:

IMG_6522 2.jpeg

This little job will be knocked together later on this year after the showcase cabinet with the 'V' section door. What I'll have to do later on, prior to mangling wood, is to work out how JK made it. Like most of his stuff, what appears simple ain't, but if he did it, so will I.

I think....... - Rob

Edit - the attachment below, lhs shows the process of cutting away the grotty bits to get a 'match'
 

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Another cabinet build! Either you're spoiling us, or there's something very addictive in all that pretty timber... 😏

Watching with interest and anticipation.
 
Another cabinet build! Either you're spoiling us, or there's something very addictive in all that pretty timber... 😏

Watching with interest and anticipation.
Thanks Andy. The Walnut was really not first rate by any stretch and I've no idea why I bought it, but I'm really pleased that all, or most of the veneers were obtained from it.

I now posses a very blunt bandsaw blade! - Rob
 
He’s got some beautiful little drawers in his cabinet, not sure if they’re Yacca, but deep brown/red almost like that wood from Australia that Derek used on his bench.
Also I hadn’t realised he was keen on Brown Oak, I have a few choice boards in store but I’m not sure whether I will be allowed to import it in the container when it eventually comes, if not I think I might know a certain Rob that might want it?
I was looking at “The Swedish Opera” that he produced, now that would be challenging Why it’s got a back door I can’t imagine!
 
He’s got some beautiful little drawers in his cabinet, not sure if they’re Yacca, but deep brown/red almost like that wood from Australia that Derek used on his bench.
Also I hadn’t realised he was keen on Brown Oak, I have a few choice boards in store but I’m not sure whether I will be allowed to import it in the container when it eventually comes, if not I think I might know a certain Rob that might want it?
I was looking at “The Swedish Opera” that he produced, now that would be challenging Why it’s got a back door I can’t imagine!
You have a talent for reading minds Ian....yes please! - Rob...still have a plank you let me have a while back

Edit - I noticed the drawer fronts as well, but I have a continuous piece of Walnut that's been earmarked for that little job. More interesting is how he's hung them from the top of cabinet; if you look closely as I did this afternoon, there's a separate drawer box within the cabinet fixed to the underside of the top.
 
You have a talent for reading minds Ian....yes please! - Rob...still have a plank you let me have a while back

Edit - I noticed the drawer fronts as well, but I have a continuous piece of Walnut that's been earmarked for that little job. More interesting is how he's hung them from the top of cabinet; if you look closely as I did this afternoon, there's a separate drawer box within the cabinet fixed to the underside of the top.
Also of note is the centre drawer has a wider front that overlaps that drawer box giving the illusion of a continuous piece of wood, yes Walnut will be nice, presumably on that drawer the sides are in stopped dovetail housings in the front.
Not so easy cutting the groove in the drawer front for the baseboard as it will be stopped at both ends. Router?
The holes acting as knobs are presumably scalloped upwards to give a finger some purchase?
Ian
 
Also of note is the centre drawer has a wider front that overlaps that drawer box giving the illusion of a continuous piece of wood, yes Walnut will be nice, presumably on that drawer the sides are in stopped dovetail housings in the front.
Not so easy cutting the groove in the drawer front for the baseboard as it will be stopped at both ends. Router?
The holes acting as knobs are presumably scalloped upwards to give a finger some purchase?
Ian
Saw that as well, but he may well have done a drawer aka Rob Ingham, where a dovetailed drawer box is made and the front is then screwed on:

IMG_6546.jpeg

...which means you can fit the box as standard to the opening and then screw on the front. It's also easy peasy then to machine a groove for the bottom. The drawer shown has a central runner, so the sides don't even have to make a fit with the cabinet for it to run smoothly.
Yep, the scalloped recesses will have been hand carved to encourage the user to approach the drawers from slightly underneath rather than 'head on'.

No idea what that wood is he's using, but to me it looks sort of Rosewoody? - Rob

Edit - believe it or not, the method shown above is a genuine RI process as detailed in his now out of print book.
 
Must say Rob that neither a central runner or a screwed on front come very high on my list of the correct way to do drawers.
On that Yacca photo showing that centre drawer, the sides on the middle one don’t come all the way to the top as they do on the other two, maybe you’re right about the runner. And yes to Rosewood.
 
Must say Rob that neither a central runner or a screwed on front come very high on my list of the correct way to do drawers.
On that Yacca photo showing that centre drawer, the sides on the middle one don’t come all the way to the top as they do on the other two, maybe you’re right about the runner. And yes to Rosewood.
Agreed, it's an odd way to do them, but RI thought it through. When you look at some of his designs (not that they appeal to me a great deal), many of the drawers have a veneered pattern or inlaid line, such as the front of this chest of drawers:

Unknown.jpeg

The only way he could get the intersections between the veneers to line up perfectly (and they will be perfect, with no 'dog leg' etc) was to make the drawer fronts separately and fit them very carefully until the veneer intersections between each drawer lined up precisely. To do that meant that the fronts had to come off repeatedly and go back in exactly the same position on the drawer box each time. If you scroll back to have a look at my feeble drawer, you'll see a pair of 5mm holes which are apparently doing nowt; those in fact are for a pair of steel pins that can be pushed through into corresponding holes on the reverse of the drawer front, so that you can take it off and refit it in exactly the same position every time....which I thought was very cunning!

So yep, making them this way is odd but a necessity for this particular job which is SWIMBO's 'skeletal' chest of drawers (from a design by John Makepeace):

IMG_6548.jpeg

...now cluttered up with other 'stuff'. There's no other way to make drawers except to use a central drawer runner and the applied fronts meant that they fitted snuggly into the opening; the two steel pin method meant that they could be skimmed precisely to fit - Rob

Edit - note that 'The Owl Cabinet' has been commandeered and is equally full of 'stuff'
Edit deux - having looked again at that central drawer on JK's piece, I would make it using a drawer box and an applied front.
 
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Very nice Rob, what holds up the rails on that skeletal design?
Cunning yes, I’ve done similar things with locating pegs, I use a brass screw screwed in and the head cut off, and not showing on the inside of the drawer, That’s how I got the two parts of that enormous L shaped desk to line up perfectly, started off with two panel pins cut off pushed the parts together then used a punch to slightly enlarge the pin holes to drill for the pilot hole for the screws.
And yes to his way of doing that veneered front, there would be very little chance of getting it right if he tried to use solid wood for drawer fronts in the normal way.
I think if it were me I would do a triple drawer box with all the drawers then being the same method of construction.
Whichever it’s going to be a nice piece.
 
Very nice Rob, what holds up the rails on that skeletal design?
Cunning yes, I’ve done similar things with locating pegs, I use a brass screw screwed in and the head cut off, and not showing on the inside of the drawer, That’s how I got the two parts of that enormous L shaped desk to line up perfectly, started off with two panel pins cut off pushed the parts together then used a punch to slightly enlarge the pin holes to drill for the pilot hole for the screws.
And yes to his way of doing that veneered front, there would be very little chance of getting it right if he tried to use solid wood for drawer fronts in the normal way.
I think if it were me I would do a triple drawer box with all the drawers then being the same method of construction.
Whichever it’s going to be a nice piece.
Thanks Ian. There's a pair of vertical legs at the rear of the piece, each leg being doweled into a horizontal drawer framework to provide support, so effectively it's got four legs but the pair at the back aren't visible unless you peer round the back.

If you take a peek at 'The Krenov Archive' again, JK did an almost identical piece called 'The White Oak' cabinet where the drawer detail shown in the smaller images shows a more standardised, normal approach, which I think I prefer....but the jury's still out :ROFLMAO: Very acceptable Brown Oak drawer fronts as well! - Rob
 
Yes thanks, that makes sense.
I have taken the liberty of copying a pic, I really like the rounded edges to the frame around the drawers and that nice moulding on the left, nice touches, good heavens I shall be a Krenov convert at this rate!
IMG_0239.png
 
Yes thanks, that makes sense.
I have taken the liberty of copying a pic, I really like the rounded edges to the frame around the drawers and that nice moulding on the left, nice touches, good heavens I shall be a Krenov convert at this rate!
View attachment 39676

It doesn't take too much for JK to get under your skin Ian and once he does, you're hooked! I think I prefer this arrangement as well compared to the one shown on 'The Yaca Cabinet' and I also like that moulding on the lhs. Interesting that he never seems to use dust boards in the supporting framework. Meanwhile, yesterday afternoon was spent pondering about and then hacking up a large plank of Swiss Pear to make:

IMG_6555.jpeg

...the legs, each 1.3m long, which ought to be plenty. Eventually, these will be turned into JK's signature five sided legs - Rob
 
Nice! I hadn’t realised they were 5 sided, that almost eccentric! I just thought he turned them through 45degrees which is awkward enough.
But I’ve never seen much point to dust boards either tbh.
 
Nice! I hadn’t realised they were 5 sided, that almost eccentric! I just thought he turned them through 45degrees which is awkward enough.
But I’ve never seen much point to dust boards either tbh.
Easy enough to do on the router table with a big 45deg mitre bit. I always do a pine mock up just to check the router table set; I've done four projects now with these five sided legs; jointing into them is also quite straightforward with a Domino...again, pays to check the 'set up' before cutting the holes - Rob
 
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