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Threading like Grandad

AndyT

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One of my grandfathers was an engineer. He died when I was only 13, so my memories of him are limited. But I do remember him saying that he used to stand at a bench filing commutators, and that fits with census records of employment in the 1920s at a central London company that made electrical machinery. In an earlier census he was described as a Turner and Fitter. I wish I had asked him more about his working life!

That's all by way of a long-winded excuse for some of my interest in older ways of metalworking, before everything was done with machine tools.

So I was very pleased when I saw @toolsntat at the last David Stanley auction and he gave me some of his surplus treasure. My haul included a surface gauge, a tap wrench and a couple of old style die stocks.

The die stocks looked like this:

P1100380.JPG

but after a soak in some citric acid + washing soda rust remover, followed by a gentle rub with rubberised abrasive, they soon looked like this:

P1100390.JPG

Andy thought they would complement my old treadle driven lathe, and he's right.

As far as I can see from catalogues and old books, this style, with a pair of hardened dies sliding inside an iron frame, were in general use around the middle of the nineteenth century.

Charles Holtzapffel has a very long and detailed section about screw cutting tools in volume 2 of Turning and Mechanical Manipulation, published in 1847, which I recommend to anyone who really wants to see the detailed aspects of the various designs available then, or just enjoys diagrams like this:

Screenshot 2026-04-30 195718.png

The earliest commercial illustration I have found is this rather crowded one from the Timmins catalogue of 1845

IMG_20260430_193508461.jpg

and here's a similar engraving from the 4th edition of the Sheffield List, around 1855:

1777572120147.png

But the design shouldn't be dismissed as just Victorian - it lived on for more than a century - a recognisable version was still listed in Buck and Hickman catalogue in 1964

IMG_20260430_154504275.jpg

and even in 1971:

IMG_20260430_154245585.jpg

My two have a roughness about them which might mean that they were at least partly hand made, forged and filed, not drop forged and milled, but that's just a guess. Although the stocks are different lengths, the dies are a nice standard 1/4 inch diameter and 20 threads per inch.

After reading a bit about how to use them and a relaxing half hour trying them out on a bit of 1/4" steel rod, this is what I have learned.

They are easier to get started on the work than circular dies are. There's a bit of a taper on one side. You position the dies with the taper on the end of the work and tighten up the adjustment screw to clamp it quite tightly. The edges of the dies then start to cut a shallow thread. As the thread starts to form, you tighten the screw again.

Some of the threading action is from the leading edges but much of it is a done by swaging/rolling the metal to shape. There's less swarf than you get with a circular die and no real need to reverse direction in order to break the chips. (The construction and cutting action are symmetrical though, so reversing does tidy up the thread a bit.)

P1100387.JPG

P1100388.JPG

However, I did end up with a thread which was too wide in the diameter to fit a commercial 1/4" BSW nut. By tightening up the setting and running the thread again, I managed to get a nice tight fit.

I also tried a bit of copper rod:

P1100399.JPG

On the copper you can see a distinctive central line on the crests, which I think is characteristic of a rolled thread. (It's visible on my Record G-cramps, which have an Acme thread form.)

P1100400.JPG

I think I have convinced myself that the adjustability is an advantage, in that if I ever need to make threads fit tighter than ordinary nuts and bolts do, I could. I know that there is some adjustment available on my collection of split dies but with this tool it's probably slightly easier to make a piece, then adjust it to fit just right. I expect that a proper engineer would work to dimensions and refer to a detailed data chart but I am happy to approach this sort of thing the same way I would with a dovetail or a mortise and tenon and sneak up on the level of fit I want.

So, if you come across any of these, please don't dismiss them as crude or obsolete just because they don't relate to metric standards. The pioneering Victorian engineers thought in great detail about the work they were doing and the tools they used.

And if anyone recognises the partial trade mark on the smaller one, please tell!

P1100391.JPG
 
Fascinating, thanks for sharing Andy. I've never seen dies like that & I can definitely see the advantage of being able to adjust the cut. I've used serial taps before (which have three taps that each take a little material off to get to the final size) & they work really well, especially on tough materials, so I can see the same being true of your dies.

I also didn't know there was such a thing as a hand-rolled thread, so that's intriguing.

I guess modern dies are easier to mass-produce & they do the job for most people.
 
As always, that's a very interesting and well researched post, Andy. Thank you very much.
 
Nice. I think there were some of that pattern around at work once, but I don't know what happened to them.

According to the "Dormer tap and die information handbook" edition 1180, date unknown, which I have before me, standard circular split dies can be adjusted by up to 0.008".

I recalled listing in there "Cold forming taps" that look like a tap where someone forgot to cut the flutes, and form the thread by displacing rather than cutting in soft materials. No analogous dies though.
 
Thanks all, glad you like it.

I've found an earlier illustration, from Smith's Key, 1816. Not angled, but the same system of hardened steel dies sliding in an iron frame.

1777583125587.png
 
Very interesting Andy.

I had seen a bit on Roy Underhill where he says the tread turns larger than the rod, I can’t remember which episode it was.

Pete
 
Very interesting Andy.

I had seen a bit on Roy Underhill where he says the tread turns larger than the rod, I can’t remember which episode it was.

Pete
Yes, that's definitely happened. I think you can see the difference in the second photo of the copper rod.
I've just checked and the rod is 0.25" but the threaded part has gone up to 0.27".

The harder steel had grown as well, but only by 3-4 thou.

So there's another advantage of these dies - I can clean up old rusty/battered rod until it's undersized, but still get a full sized thread.

I wonder if I will ever need to do that!
 
Nice. I think there were some of that pattern around at work once, but I don't know what happened to them.

According to the "Dormer tap and die information handbook" edition 1180, date unknown, which I have before me, standard circular split dies can be adjusted by up to 0.008".

I recalled listing in there "Cold forming taps" that look like a tap where someone forgot to cut the flutes, and form the thread by displacing rather than cutting in soft materials. No analogous dies though.

Cold forming taps are still relatively common; I've got a few metric ones. They work very well.

There's one in this picture of my M6 tap drawer (on the right, just underneath the empty pocket labelled "spiral point"):

tap_die_storage_m6_drawer_filled.jpg


That photo shows quite a few different types of tap:
  1. Long series (at the top)
  2. Spiral flute (for machine tapping with the swarf being pulled up and out of the hole - good for blind holes)
  3. Taper, Second (aka plug) and bottoming (aka plug) - what most people would probably think of as "normal thread taps"
  4. Spiral point (for machine tapping with the swarf being pushed down ahead of the tap - good for through holes)
  5. Thread forming
  6. Serial taps (where the first two are undersize so each tap cuts a little bit but none have to work too hard; the first one lines up really easily with the hole so I think of these as being a bit like a spot drill, drill and reamer)
My left-hand thread taps and fine pitch ones are in a different drawer :)
 
That's an impressive range of tackle there Al, I can almost see the benefit of only covering metric threads...

But if you can't find old ones, there's always the option of adopting the ways of an amateur metalworker in 1907 and making your own.

Paul Hasluck's handy survey has plenty of detail, including instructions on how to make your own taps, dies and stocks. I was going to photograph some pages from my own copy but it makes more sense just to link to a freely available scan which you can read online or download as a PDF.

 
Fascinating Andy. I have some of this pattern too, from my blacksmith grandfather.
I think the oft-missed advice to "go gently" bears repetition. It is all too easy to get a very wonky thread indeed if "you give it some welly". Apparently, the heat generated by speedy hand threading softens the metal and it distorts.
 
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