Tile and slab cutter

[AJB Temple]

As I've got another load of tiling to do, mostly 15mm limestone floor slabs of sizeable dimensions, I decided a tile cutter needed adding to my tool mountain (I do have a really cheap little table cutter that I used for cutting marble mosaic tiles). I missed a very little used DIY Rubi one on eBay last Sunday, which is £320 new and went for £220 with last second sniping. My limit was £150 anyway. It was only 5 miles from me so would have been handy.

Anyway, this used Sima trade tool came up this week, with a buy it now of £50, which seemed exceptionally cheap for what is a much more heavy duty machine. Had to drive to Rainham to get it.




The seller is a retiring tiler. The machine seems quite heavy duty, came with two cutting discs and the guy showed it working, including water pumping. Seems ideal for the job. He said he has cut 70mm brick slips with it so it should cope with my 15mm fossil limestone and the 24mm black limestone. It will do bevel cuts and cut outs for socket boxes etc. I might even splash out on a new blade.

I can't find any instructions for this machine on line, but it seems simple enough. If anyone who has used one of this has advice that will make my life easier, I am all ears.

 

[RogerS]

I have the larger (much larger ) Scheppach one. Large enough to make cut down the length of very large tiles. These watercooled jobbies are brilliant. You won't regret your purchase.

I will make a small cut at the far end first before starting the main cut so as to guard against any possible breakout as the blade gets to the far end.

 

[RogerS]

I forgot to add. Be prepared for the floor around it to get wet. Very wet as the water sits on top of the tile and runs off the edges. Also you may get spray thrown off inline with the blade...I do with mine.

 

[AJB Temple]

That's a good idea Roger (end cut). The capacity of this one is 700mm I think. My largest tile is 600mm wide by 800mm long, but most of my cuts in Mike's floor plan are 600mm in 600 by 400 tiles. For £50 plus possibly a new blade, it was a no brainer and a lot better than my previous method of using a large angle grinder with a stone disc in it.

I am planning to cut my own stone skirtings as well as the tiles.

 

[clogs]

u lucky boy.....

 

[woodstalker]

I too have a loads of tiling coming up and I think one of these bench cutters is the best way. Roger which one did you go for? I have 900x600x20mm slate to cut.

Also would be interested in a levelling system for adhesive stuck down tiles if anyones used one.

I am still doing the pedestals system on the roof terrace too.

 

[RogerS]

I too have a loads of tiling coming up and I think one of these bench cutters is the best way. Roger which one did you go for? I have 900x600x20mm slate to cut.

Scheppach

Also would be interested in a levelling system for adhesive stuck down tiles if anyones used one.

Is this the sort of thing ?

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=4609&p=71061&hilit=tile#p71061

 

[woodstalker]

Cheers roger, that is the tile cutter I need. I am using the support system system as you show on the roof terrace but will be using adhesive in the house and on the lower patio so it was more like this sort of thing:

https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product ... size-clip-

To bring all the tile corners into alignment and stop any sinking.

 

[Doug]

Why would the tiles sink if laid properly?
Those kinds of systems are more likely to cause voids under the tiles, if I remember correctly that’s what happened to Roger when he had someone tile his shower floor.

 

[woodstalker]

Why would the tiles sink if laid properly?
Those kinds of systems are more likely to cause voids under the tiles, if I remember correctly that’s what happened to Roger when he had someone tile his shower floor.

I’m obviously doing it wrong then. I had a couple of natural slate tiles sink in the bathroom giving some annoying edges.

 

[RogerS]

Why would the tiles sink if laid properly?
Those kinds of systems are more likely to cause voids under the tiles, if I remember correctly that’s what happened to Roger when he had someone tile his shower floor.

No, the voids were down to the tiler being useless and using dit and dab rather than doing the job properly. I've used that levelling system Woodstalker is using and it's easy to avoid getting any voids.

The terrace is still looking good ....now that used the system I linked to above.

Woodstalker - I really recommend the Rubi rough stone sucker especially with tiles that size. Maybe even two.

 

[woodstalker]

Why would the tiles sink if laid properly?
Those kinds of systems are more likely to cause voids under the tiles, if I remember correctly that’s what happened to Roger when he had someone tile his shower floor.

No, the voids were down to the tiler being useless and using dit and dab rather than doing the job properly. I've used that levelling system Woodstalker is using and it's easy to avoid getting any voids.

The terrace is still looking good ....now that used the system I linked to above.

Woodstalker - I really recommend the Rubi rough stone sucker especially with tiles that size. Maybe even two.

Cheers Roger, will have a look at them. Was planning on buying them reselling the kit once done. I’ve got some serious square metres to do. Do the suction grips cope with uneven natural stone?

 

[Doug]

Why would the tiles sink if laid properly?
Those kinds of systems are more likely to cause voids under the tiles, if I remember correctly that’s what happened to Roger when he had someone tile his shower floor.

I’m obviously doing it wrong then. I had a couple of natural slate tiles sink in the bathroom giving some annoying edges.

Sounds like it what trowel are you using.

 

[Doug]

Did this cloakroom the week before last



The previous floor tiles were all over the pace the simple reason being they had been put down with a wall tile trowel, if you look at the photo below you can see how small the adhesive ribs are, those ribs have been slightly compressed but due to the lack of adhesive practically non had stuck to the tiles



On the bright side the tiles came up very easily, the tiles I laid were 900x150 the adhesive spread with a flooring adhesive trowel & so there was no movement of the tiles after laying. When tiles are laid properly there is no reason for levelling systems, if you are pulling up corners you are stretching the adhesive which can lead to voids so I personally don’t think they are a good idea & really can’t see the need for them.

 

[woodstalker]

Looks good Doug

 

[RogerS]

Why would the tiles sink if laid properly?
Those kinds of systems are more likely to cause voids under the tiles, if I remember correctly that’s what happened to Roger when he had someone tile his shower floor.

No, the voids were down to the tiler being useless and using dit and dab rather than doing the job properly. I've used that levelling system Woodstalker is using and it's easy to avoid getting any voids.

The terrace is still looking good ....now that used the system I linked to above.

Woodstalker - I really recommend the Rubi rough stone sucker especially with tiles that size. Maybe even two.

Cheers Roger, will have a look at them. Was planning on buying them reselling the kit once done. I’ve got some serious square metres to do. Do the suction grips cope with uneven natural stone?

Not something like split limestone. Needs a flat surface but not one that has been polished, if you catch my drift.

 

[AJB Temple]

I keep meaning to check if my pair of double suction pads (for glass) will work.

 

[Harv-53]

I have the vitrex bridge cutter it’s over 10 years old now and is invaluable, I’d advise purchasing a decent diamond blade, Pro tiler-tools referenced to above by woodstalker, are only a few miles away from me and the guys there are brilliant.
The tile levelling system is fine on large format tiles, you end up with loads of plastic bits sticking up which will be a pain in the arse as you can’t snap them off until it’s all set
I’ve got a pair of grabo cordless vacuum lifters, they are a bit pricey but in my opinion they are worth every penny, I work on my own a lot of the time and I purchased one to help lay a reclaimed York stone patio it worked that well I bought another straight away.

 

[AJB Temple]

Harv, what diamond blades would you recommend. My £50 machine came with a Vitrex diamond blade (used but not worn out) and a another used blade not sure what brand.

 

[RogerS]

Harv, what diamond blades would you recommend. My £50 machine came with a Vitrex diamond blade (used but not worn out) and a another used blade not sure what brand.

Rubi for me.

 

[9fingers]

Norton make excellent diamond blades.

On two occasions I've hired a Norton Clipper 500mm saw with a sliding table, water tank/pump etc and it has cut tiles of whore's heart hardness perfectly.

Bob

 

[Harv-53]

Harv, what diamond blades would you recommend. My £50 machine came with a Vitrex diamond blade (used but not worn out) and a another used blade not sure what brand.

Rubi for me.

Adrian,
Same as Roger,
I have a selection of rubi blades for various materials, I had to purchase a bore reducing ring as my machine has a 22mm shaft and the 200mm ruby blades are 25mm bore.
I can recommend the glass/ porcelain blade should anyone need to cut marble tiles it leaves an almost polished edge.
I cheat with marble polishing for small stuff by wiping on clear resin it leaves a very shiny and durable finish

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks guys. I will check shaft size on the cutter. I had no idea that there are different types and grades of diamond blades for different materials. In this case it is limestone, which I would expect to be quite soft compared say, with porcelain.

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks guys. I will check shaft size on the cutter. I had no idea that there are different types and grades of diamond blades for different materials. In this case it is limestone, which I would expect to be quite soft compared say, with porcelain.