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Timber conservatory

beckman

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New to the forum and I thought I'd kick things off with a very recently completed project, a timber conservatory. I learnt a few things along the way which I'd like share.
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I wanted the design to be traditional, timber and classical although the window spacing would be more modern. Having looked at a number of examples (like Vale garden rooms), the construction seemed straightforward enough - essentially a number of windows connected by a sill and a ring beam with rafters on that.

Lacking in spindle moulder and heavy enough machinery to deal with the lengths of timber required, I found a company (Ilingworth Ingham) that made the window moulding profiles and would even machine up the cope and stick joints to measurements. It was then a case of assembling.

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I ordered 1 large window which made up the 3m length, made up from two openers and one large middle non-opener, two side windows, a door and frame, and some lengths of sill. I made corner posts and tennoned them into the sill and a ring beam with half lap corners.

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Here I'm also mocking up the overhang detail in ply for the ring beam/ fascia

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Now on the plinth - more on that later, but the steel frame was a massive time and effort saver

It was all engineered redwood, which was great dimensionally although I had the door and sill made up in sapele.

As far as a service I thought the machining was good, and reasonable in cost. I would recommend it, especially as the window jambs etc are fairly hefty mouldings and I don't think I would have achieved the accuracy or at least the time spent wouldn't have been cost effective.
 
Hi Beckman, and welcome to the forum.

That's a nice conservatory. You'll find it a lovely space once you've finished. I built a very similar one 20-odd years ago, with similar difficulties over large rebates. I got over that a slightly different way, by buying a pre-made cill profile, and by fitting bought windows into the frame I made. It worked beautifully.

I hope you have some roof vents/ opening lights planned. Closed conservatories can get to 45 Celcius plus in summer, and that plays havoc with the woodwork, as well as with furniture etc inside.

I'm just ordering timber now for a greenhouse, which is exactly the same as a conservatory without the posh floor. This time I'm going to do all of it myself, including the windows.
 
Thanks Mike, I finished it over the summer and although it's only 3 x 2m we're in there all the time especially with the kids and it's a great connection to the garden. I'd love to make a glasshouse, high victorian style.

I went through various permutations in design to get around my workshop limitations, including buying ready made wood frames. The roof light was a great debate, my own experience of roof windows has been leaks and I wasn't convinced by either the glass flashing system or the family's ability to ever shut them before the rain! Not South facing, the solar control glass made a big difference - Gobain Coolite SKN176 with 70% light transmission and .37g value. This seemed the best option while avoiding any tinted options - they seem optically very clear. Luckily over the 4 days of hot weather we had the windows and doors provided enough ventilation to keep the heat down.

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Simple mouldings I routed on the rafters and ridge added some visual interest (sorry rotated)

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The two 'triangles' were half lapped together with quadrant beading added on the interior for the glazing rebate.

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The Kapex 50mm system in grey from Exitex worked well, although the aluminium wall flashing profile was a waste of time - I didn't use it in the end as it relied on a silicone bead somewhere which I'm sure would fail at some point. I went with lead flashing in the end which was the tried and tested way to go.

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OOhh...I like the marble..nice touch.

I'm intrigued by the hexagonal pebble dash 'shadow'.
 
RogerS":3gyoyh43 said:
I'm intrigued by the hexagonal pebble dash 'shadow'.
Had to think about that one for a moment!
It's all pebble dash, now painted white, but not under the old burglar alarm.
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I have to say the steel frame base and plinth walls from Durabase was great. On the cost, exertion and nuisance of digging foundations and building a wall it was well worth it. All in it took two days to dig and fill the concrete pads and install the plinths.

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The galvanised box section of the plinth could be stuffed with insulation and the services run through. The limitation was the bond for the slips, stretcher wouldn't have been my favourite, but in style they matched surrounding and they were going to be painted also.

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The steel frame base was filled with PIR board and the structural floor tek screwed on to that.
 
Interesting. That wouldn't be my first choice of approach, but it does get over the nuisance of a 300mm deep wall for the plinth, which just eats space if you've got a small room.
 
That looks great and quite ingenious. The picture of the small child down a hole made me smile - I bet he loved that!
 
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