• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Tims workshop

Mike G":31w298hg said:
I dunno.......I go away for 5 minutes and someone sticks a shed up. ;)
Click to expand...

It really didn't take much longer than that. I erected the frames in my lunch break in 40 minutes. I reckon that might be the only quick and easy part of the job.
 
Well it turned out that the door was too heavy and I had to take a couple of weeks out for my back to recover. In the meantime I have made a musical roots instrument which I will show in another thread.

My mate helped lift the boards up. Many thanks to him, as I couldn't have done it on my own.

I have now boarded out the roof and ordered EPDM roofing and loads of insulation.

I made a sled to make the rip cuts easy peasy. I didn't have a long enough scrap board so I had to place the sled, cut and repeat. But now I have a couple of 2.4m scraps to make a new longer one.

By the way Travis Perkins wanted £35 + vat per sheet of 18mm OSB. I nearly died of laughter at the counter when he said he could do any better. Build base was £17 Inc vat. Won't ever bother with tp again.

Hedges to be trimmed back considerably, but also without upsetting my partner. I think the bay needs removing...

I am off to the wood yard vastern to buy wood for the fascias tomorrow morning. The. Working from home waiting for the roof to arrive by courier.

I realise I need some better photos of the complete roof. Watch this space.

Apologies to non Tapatalk users if the images don't work. Mike are you still having issues?

This was nearly my first post without a question. Better luck next time.
03a37caa1e1f68852e414efed67aaa1b.jpg
812afc464e2783b70943252eccf38552.jpg
3b30830c0ebe7405c6ba2c189a59598f.jpg
937d70a3842d3892c65fe9939ec44d56.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Grrrrr apparently the OSB should be laid writing side down. Lucky I haven't finished screwing them down.

Will it make any difference and do I really need to flip every sheet over?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
No, doesn't make a jot of difference. Don't bother changing anything.
 
Mike G":2799fllw said:
No, doesn't make a jot of difference. Don't bother changing anything.
Click to expand...
Phew. It would be feasible but would take so much time. Both sides of the osb feel the same to me

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I have had a busy couple of months and made some progress on the workshed.
Firstly the insulation is in the process of being fitted. I ended up buying celotex type boards. They are seconds from seconds and co and are half sheets which have a taper from 90mm on one side to 70mm on the other. I worried for a couple of weeks as to whether it would be suitable or a pain to fit. It actually just fine. I have done three walls and a quarter of the roof. It seems to cut best with an old handsaw and friction fit. Anyway here are some photos.
966ad95516470546eb59aa5c4ae38dda.jpg

e5cf044e36613a8752934f78d6853f1b.jpg
a1b6385aa4a8efbe3a484204d8189a67.jpg


The other thing I have finished is fitting the EPDM roof. I bought it from http://www.permaroofstore.co.uk . It was a bit cheaper than rubber4roofs who have plagued my YouTube ads for the last 6 months. Customer service was great. They forgot to include polypin nails but posted them for next day when reminded. I would recommend them.
I went for the thicker rubber as it was only £1 more on special offer.
I had help fitting it, and would not have enjoyed doing it alone. I thought it would take a couple of hours bit took 5 or 6 including doing the trims. It would have been tricky so say the least to do alone.

The gutter drip edge was almost a bit sweary to fit as it is a two part with the rubber wrapping around the two parts. It's hard to explain but makes for a good neat drip edge. I got a bit of excess glue on the rubber and this stopped the plastic sliding over the rubber. I used some flour in lieu of talc to remove the stickyness.

There are no air bubbles yet and fingers crossed there won't be any.

Evidence:
f6f247073293f773b1edf459ba4009f5.jpg

48e9067c620c42982ca585528247dded.jpg

1f13942592a490e5b110da9e85ca6502.jpg


Look who has taken up residence in the shed. He/she keeps spinning amazing webs right at head height. But they are rare, so are welcome to share my garden.
5f5b40228d196f0f5e805b9514459181.jpg


I have bought the gutter, I just need to find half an hour to fit it.

Next is to finish the insulation, wrap the outside and buy the inside lining. Wickes is closest to me and do 9mm OSB. Will that be suitable lining or should I go 12mm?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
9mm is fine. Be sure to leave a small gap (I use a nail as a spacer) between adjacent boards.
 
Cheers Mike. I used nail spacers on the roof, but thanks for the reminder.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Tidy job on the roof Tim, I used the same supplier and was happy with the product and service. My roof does have a few air bubbles in it, but the guys confirmed it's harmless - just the cosmetics. It's a very easy product to install given its lifespan too. I see you went for the premium trim too which I think finishes the look nicely. Good work!
 
I have been quiet for a while because I have not had much time to put into the workshed.

The building is wrapped in leftovers roof membrane I had been squirreling away. I had about 1m to spare. How lucky. It was a really fun and quick part of the job.

The insulation on the walls is now done. The floor insulation is part done. Ideally need to get the floor and OSB wall sheets as I am running out of space to move around inside.

I have also fitted the windows. They need some packing wedges on the sides and top but is basically in. I left the window stood outside for 6 months upside down. It filled with water and turned really bad. Super smelly green water. I took bits apart and gave it a good clean. I am debating whether to paint the frame or stick with boring white upvc.

Guttering is fitted, but I need to direct the water somewhere sensible rather than 6ft away into a tree.

I now have a building that is lockable and watertight (ish)
3928343fbd2a54da29c6616dadb99a9c.jpg
d09e7ace1641d9e574b41b9cf95b6d54.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I have been quietly getting on with the build. It is now floored, insulated, lined, and has an extra window.

I realised almost as soon as I had wrapped the building that it was going to be too dark. So have fitted another window. It catches the morning sun and provides a nice amount of light.

I have a spare window going for free. Details here, but free for forum members https://www.gumtree.com/p/doors-windows/upvc-double-glazed-window/1283037853

See the before and after pics.
db66cc5a0929ec527b146cf8563ea17a.jpg
2ae5da6d10247fa183a76e19f1806f52.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I seem to have forgotten to take photos of the floor. But it is 22mm chipboard. I need to lay something cost effective to protect it from mud and wet bikes.
Any suggestions for cost effective solutions?
Once the floor was laid I cracked on with lining with 9mm OSB. It took 12 sheets without much wastage. I have to remember to return the spare sheet to wickes.
f2e00e9de01a3cf5242b9295ef8d257d.jpg
e6be34b47abfdc30b6ef7138decef5b4.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Looking good!

Thanks, you're reminding me to finish lining the inside of mine!!
 
It's really hard to take a photo of the inside of a wooden box as there is no perception of depth. Here are some slightly rubbish photos.

I have been experimenting with a hanging bike rack with sliding hooks. Don't know if it's a goer or not yet.

Next steps are finish screwing the lining. What distance apart should the screws be? I was doing 400mm spacing but that.mihht be a bit stingy.

Then it will be back outside to fit battons, mesh and cladding.
003ef03f7e493af573ab415c5298e1e0.jpg
c04322b4e1c2672f28fb4640e43630d7.jpg
3980ce6232fe5d7aa463e815779d6d74.jpg
d476e225f4becc93451cef8ee006c455.jpg
affe68b630b642e8a6eb8af63b633627.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Malc2098":1cklyqgn said:
Looking good!

Thanks, you're reminding me to finish lining the inside of mine!!
Click to expand...
It was extremely satisfying when the last bit of lining went up.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Andyp":s5amag5l said:
Once those walls are painted it will be transformed again. Well done.
Click to expand...
Mrs Tim thinks I should leave them unpainted.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
What does Mrs T know? [emoji3]

I left my walls unpainted as it was just a shed but for a workshop painting a light colour will give you much more effective light.

Rod
 
What a great looking space. Shame you have to have the bikes in there. If you have the head height I hang our bikes upside down from hooks in the ceiling that the wheels hook into. It means I have run-off space underneath them for wood coming off the tablesaw and bandsaw etic. Downside is that I am the only one that get the bikes out as no one else is tall enough to handle them easily!
 
timothyedoran":3vm24c6u said:
Andyp":3vm24c6u said:
Once those walls are painted it will be transformed again. Well done.
Click to expand...
Mrs Tim thinks I should leave them unpainted.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You MUST paint the walls. It will make a helluva difference to the light.
 
Halo Jones":3vsxf6d6 said:
What a great looking space. Shame you have to have the bikes in there. If you have the head height I hang our bikes upside down from hooks in the ceiling that the wheels hook into. It means I have run-off space underneath them for wood coming off the tablesaw and bandsaw etic. Downside is that I am the only one that get the bikes out as no one else is tall enough to handle them easily!
Click to expand...

A couple of pulleys would sort that out. You could buy a bike hoist but it should be a cinch to make.
 
Looks good. Definitely paint the walls white, makes a world of difference.

I bought 2 bike pulleys from Aldo for less than a tenner each.

Cheers
Mark
 
Unfortunately due to the permitted development rules the head height is low.

I have something of a bike collection, and cycling is actually my first love, maybe more so than woodwork (please don't ban me from here). I absolutely don't mind sharing the space with bikes, apart from getting them dusty. Mrs Tim was not happy with the ideas of bikes in the bedroom though.

Any thoughts on waterproof flooring? Lino, rubber(?), Paint?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
To be honest mate so long as you're not planning on washing the bikes in there then the bare OSB should be more than waterproof enough for your needs. It's so filled with resin it's practically plastic!

Mike G will be able to confirm though...

Cheers
Mark
 
TrimTheKing":vzehp4m1 said:
To be honest mate so long as you're not planning on washing the bikes in there then the bare OSB should be more than waterproof enough for your needs. It's so filled with resin it's practically plastic!

Mike G will be able to confirm though...

Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
Ah, that maybe the case for OSB, but my floor is chipboard...

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Putting wet bikes in the shed where you store precious tools seems like a problem to me but your choice.

I think the first thing I'd do is find the cheapest oil based varnish, thin is with 2 parts varnish and 1 part white spirit and saturate the floor with it, push round with a cheap disposable broom and allow to go off. This should soak in to the upper surface of the chip board. Work as much in as possible into the edges and joints.
Then fit some sort of hardish impermeable sheet flooring. Rubber sheet could get caught on things and tear as could common vinyl domestic flooring.
At work we used what looked like thick vinyl on the corridor floors that was continued up the skirting a few inches and that was incredibly hard wearing and totally waterproof. This withstood foot traffic as well as equipment trolleys. So maybe look for local firms that fit industrial flooring and you might be able to get an off cut in exchange for a contribution to the tea fund. I've seen similar stuff used for the flooring in pub toilets too.

hth
Bob
 
timothyedoran":1n3xdoxl said:
Thanks for your ideas, very helpful.

Something like this?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1678602217

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes that is the sort of stuff I had in mind. Once the floor has been oil based varnish sealed, you can then use a water based vinyl adhesive to bond the covering. The two should not then fight.

Bob
 
The cladding has arrived today. I ordered boards 200mm wide but what has turned up is 300-400mm wide so I have way more than I need.

Here is a picture. There are actually 2 piles. Not looking forward to moving it off the road, it is heavy.
cafa5369b1c297a7329edc5f3c57cf97.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Malc2098":y1fo033b said:
I bet it smells lovely!
Click to expand...
It does smell nice and woody.

Its in my neighbors preferred parking space so I will have to crack on with moving it. It will be like how one would eat an elephant, one mouthful at a time over a few days.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I have put up the first couple of board temporary using screws. I have a couple of questions which I would be grateful for suggestions.
1. Overlap. The boards are wide 300 to 400mm. I know the common overlap would be 50mm. Is there any benefit or problems increasing the overlap to say 100mm. It makes the board look better imho. The photo shows 100mm overlap.
2. Fixings. I can buy either annular nails or galvanised round nails from Screwfix or tool station. I cannot find both annular and galvanised. Which is preferable, grippy but rusty or not grippy but rustproof?

Thanks in advance for your help.
21fe4654fb6dbca1cd1a52c37c4a19d2.jpg


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
The galvanised are grippy enough. If those boards decide they are going to curl, no nail on the planet is going to be grippy enough to prevent it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top