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Titebond 3 ate my chisel

sunnybob

sunnybob

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Look away all you chisel purists, this gets ugly.

This is a Marples chisel, at least 30 years old, possibly 60, but a very sharp and useful tool.

I actually do use this for the correct purpose, but I also sometimes use it for paring off almost set glue from the sides of joints.

I must have unknowingly put it away without wiping off the gooey adhesive, because when I got it out for the next job, this is what I found;
IMG_3260.JPG

This is the reverse side;
IMG_3261.JPG

I used the whet stone to remove it all, thinking it was just on the surface, but look how deep those pits are;

IMG_3262.JPG

I might have to get the Jet wet sharpener out to deal with this.
 
You have removed the rust from the cutting edge, so all is good.
I use baby oil (perfumed liquid paraffin oil) on a rag to wipe down my tools when I put them away. If you pay as much as two quid for 500ml for a bottle you have been done. The bottle that I have is donkeys years old and near half full.
 
Back in 2000, I was given a set of Japanese chisels as a retirement present from my first career to add to my Marples set.

They were all wrapped up in a chisel roll and in the middle of the noughties I went through a divorce and everything had to go into storage. It came out again in 2010.

It turns out that storage was damp and every one of the chisels now demonstrates the same corrosion.

It's not the bevel side that's the problem, that can be ground away. It's the flat side. Every time you sharpen up to one of those black bits on the flat side, there will be undulations along the sharpened edge.

I just can't bring myself round to replacing all mine after how long it took me in those days to buy the Marples set, and to not use the ones that were a present contributed to by so many people.
 
sunnybob":3ayycn0k said:
Look away all you chisel purists, this gets ugly.

This is a Marples chisel, at least 30 years old, possibly 60, but a very sharp and useful tool.

I actually do use this for the correct purpose, but I also sometimes use it for paring off almost set glue from the sides of joints.

I must have unknowingly put it away without wiping off the gooey adhesive…
Click to expand...

Wrong tool for the job SB, but you knew that already :lol:

Grab a bit of acrylic, grind some acute angles at each end on the disc sander….

90E05827-7FAB-48A5-B5BB-46467BD4E8B3.jpeg

…and you can remove glue ad infinitum. The ends will get grunged up with glue, but then you just need to regrind it. The acute angle means that you can also get the glue out of really tight corners, which is awkward with a blade at 90deg. This one’s in black but other colours work just as well :lol: - Rob
 
I normally wipe the gunk off, not organised enough to have a dedicated soft glue removing tool :eusa-naughty:
This time I paid the price. :eusa-violin:

I have noticed before that titebond 3 stains metal. My vices have marks from glue spills, but if they dont affect the performance of the item I dont really get too paranoid about it.
The Bison D3 that I use doesnt stain anything, but in hot weather that becomes superglue so I have to use the titebond all through the summer. 8-)
 
sunnybob":2856rd38 said:
I normally wipe the gunk off, not organised enough to have a dedicated soft glue removing tool :eusa-naughty:
This time I paid the price. :eusa-violin:
Click to expand...

I’ve nearly finished my giant bottle of ‘lockdown’ TB3 and I shall soon be reverting back to Everbuild D4 which is just as good but you don’t need to part with an arm and a leg to get hold of some.

If you pre-finish components before glue up (excellent recent thread) all the ‘icky’ stuff can be removed from internal corners very easily (when it’s in a plastic state before it sets hard) with a Perspex ‘gluegetteroff’ tool; a very effective technique with Cascamite. Once that stuff goes ‘off’ it’s like trying remove glass.

Wiping glue off internal corners won’t remove all of it unless it’s scrubbed with a bristle brush and very hot water - Rob
 
Given that all of the three main titebonds (original, II and III ) are water soluble when applied and are wiped off with a damp rag, or in my case a licked finger, I suspect that all that is happening is water content is creating rust.
 
I'm not a chemist, but......
3 claims to aliphatic.
my knowledge ends there. :eusa-hand:
 
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