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Venting garden room

CATNAP

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Hi

Hope this is the correct place to post this question?
I'm in the middle of a garden room / shed build and need some advice on venting the intake at the bottom of the eaves.

I want to keep good airflow but block things like birds getting in.
I think totally blocking wasps etc is a big ask.

IMG_20170821_135343_1.jpg


IMG_20170821_135552_1.jpg


IMG_20170821_154750_2.jpg


Looking for a product I can cut down and fix in the spaces.
Closest thing I can find is something like this
https://www.roofingventilation.co.uk/An ... arcon-SA10
Maybe attaching it to the outside of the actual wooden cladding and butting it up to the roof sheet.

What do you people think ? better solution?
 
I've just got to that point on my 'shop build.

I used stainless steel insect mesh with stainless steel staples, exactly for the reason your state; the roof needs ventilation, but not lodgers.

I put it on before I installed the soffit facia. I know it doesn't look pretty from that angle, but now the facia is on, it's hidden except from directly underneath.
IMG_1245.JPG
 
Malc2098":eeycj7xm said:
I've just got to that point on my 'shop build.

I used stainless steel insect mesh with stainless steel staples, exactly for the reason your state; the roof needs ventilation, but not lodgers.

I put it on before I installed the soffit facia. I know it doesn't look pretty from that angle, but now the facia is on, it's hidden except from directly underneath.

Hey Cheers for that.... where did you get mesh? also do you have a photo with the facia on now?
Big thanks for the reply
 
Thank you... yours looks very smart.

I'd not planed on using a soffit facia. What are they used for? are they required?
Sorry noob at all of this.
 
CATNAP":17g77sru said:
Thank you... yours looks very smart.

I'd not planed on using a soffit facia. What are they used for? are they required?
Sorry noob at all of this.

Whilst not essential, It give you somewhere to mount the guttering rather than into end grain of rafters.

Gutters are more essential than you might think as water dripping onto the ground from 2m or so with splash up the walls and saturate them during winter month and start the dreaded rot. Even if you are using pressure treated timber it still stresses it and leave a dirty muddy line for the lower 250mm or so.

Bob
 
9fingers":2u6lgzth said:
CATNAP":2u6lgzth said:
Thank you... yours looks very smart.

I'd not planed on using a soffit facia. What are they used for? are they required?
Sorry noob at all of this.

Whilst not essential, It give you somewhere to mount the guttering rather than into end grain of rafters.

Gutters are more essential than you might think as water dripping onto the ground from 2m or so with splash up the walls and saturate them during winter month and start the dreaded rot. Even if you are using pressure treated timber it still stresses it and leave a dirty muddy line for the lower 250mm or so.

Bob

:text-+1: ....and the ends of my rafters are angled in all sorts of directions looking really naff, but sort of what you might expect from a first time DIYer like me with wobbly timber. So things like facias also straighten things up making it more pleasing to the eye.
 
BTW, why not go to the Welcome & Introduction thread and tell us a bit about yourself and your projects.
 
9fingers":33dtnjh4 said:
CATNAP":33dtnjh4 said:
Thank you... yours looks very smart.

I'd not planed on using a soffit facia. What are they used for? are they required?
Sorry noob at all of this.

Whilst not essential, It give you somewhere to mount the guttering rather than into end grain of rafters.

Gutters are more essential than you might think as water dripping onto the ground from 2m or so with splash up the walls and saturate them during winter month and start the dreaded rot. Even if you are using pressure treated timber it still stresses it and leave a dirty muddy line for the lower 250mm or so.

Bob

So I could have one long piece of timber going along the front of the building with it attached to each rafter. This would preserve the end of the rafters better? and give me a place to fix the guttering. Yes I was going to fit the guttering to the end of the rafters. Didn't think about it being an issue.
 
Andyp":4cr7fs5e said:
Hi catnap, Some wider shots of your build would be interesting and helpful too.

Not got many photos, this is slightly wider

fgfg.jpg
 
Depends how far that piece sticks out, you still need the guttering rear edge to be an inch or more behind the bottom edge of the tiles to make sure the water doesn't run behind the gutters. Will you have enough room to put a piece in that will still leave enough room to add guttering?

Thanks
Mark
 
CATNAP":3ocun267 said:
You think this fly mesh lets enough air flow through?

Yes. That's exactly what it's intended for. It's the roof structure itself that might not permit the air-flow. I'm surprised at mine at just how much space there is laterally and up and down, and over the top. I unwittingly designed it like that! :D

And as you can see so much through the insect mesh, that is an indication of how much air it will let through.
 
And Robinson's spec says the wire diameter is 0.22mm with an aperture size of 1.36mm, giving an open area of 73.8%
 
Malc2098":2e7ghmgk said:
CATNAP":2e7ghmgk said:
You think this fly mesh lets enough air flow through?

Yes. That's exactly what it's intended for. It's the roof structure itself that might not permit the air-flow. I'm surprised at mine at just how much space there is laterally and up and down, and over the top. I unwittingly designed it like that! :D

And as you can see so much through the insect mesh, that is an indication of how much air it will let through.
Again thanks for the help.

Did you use a hand stapler or some fancy electric one?
 
CATNAP":27ugfa02 said:
Did you use a hand stapler or some fancy electric one?

I think I got mine from Homebase some years ago for pinning hardboard to floorboards. It's called have duty and does staples and pins.

I got the stainless steel staples from screwfx.
 
9fingers":2ba7lslh said:
Malc2098":2ba7lslh said:
And Robinson's spec says the wire diameter is 0.22mm with an aperture size of 1.36mm, giving an open area of 73.8%


All the jaspers round Malc's way have a cross hatch pattern imprinted on the noses now after fitting that mesh! :lol: :lol:

Bob

A couple that were only 1.35mm in diameter got lucky and got through!!

:lol:
 
Malc2098":hphwrnfu said:
CATNAP":hphwrnfu said:
Did you use a hand stapler or some fancy electric one?

I think I got mine from Homebase some years ago for pinning hardboard to floorboards. It's called have duty and does staples and pins.

I got the stainless steel staples from screwfx.

you think a Staple Tacker R34 wont be up for the job?
 
CATNAP":pbaeo7xe said:
Malc2098":pbaeo7xe said:
CATNAP":pbaeo7xe said:
Did you use a hand stapler or some fancy electric one?

I think I got mine from Homebase some years ago for pinning hardboard to floorboards. It's called have duty and does staples and pins.

I got the stainless steel staples from screwfx.

you think a Staple Tacker R34 wont be up for the job?


I got mine HD for another job a few years ago. The mesh is vey easy to staple, so it's whatever the substate, wood or OSB etc., that the stapler has got to be able to punch into.
 
I got the stainless steel staples from screwfx.[/quote]

you think a Staple Tacker R34 wont be up for the job?[/quote]


I got mine HD for another job a few years ago. The mesh is vey easy to staple, so it's whatever the substate, wood or OSB etc., that the stapler has got to be able to punch into.[/quote]

Ah Cheers... we shall see then. Thanks for the help.
 
Note hand held manual staple gun doesn't work very well.

Trying another stapler tomo.
 
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