• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Vice restoration

Stuart

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Following on from the thread about a new vice I’m now in the process of carrying out some light restoration.
630EACDD-87E8-4298-9B8B-FC54F55DA31E.jpeg
I’ve managed to remove all the silver spray paint that was applied to all exposed metalwork (including the screw thread) and just wondering what to treat the metal with? Obviously oil is a non starter (although the screw thread will be oiled, not greased). I normally just wax exposed metal but wondering if there’s a better option?

I’m also wondering what the method is to ‘tighten up’ the QR spring? It operates but is very light and just doesn’t feel right. Now I suspect many would say leave it alone then but where’s the fun in that! Is it a case of fiddling with the castellated nut or is there a more definitive method?

Trying to decide whether to strip off the horrible blue or not.

Thanks
 
If oil is a non-starter, then I've been doing it wrong for deacdes. I have always oiled the moving parts (there's even a hole for dripping oil through onto the top of the thread). With wooden jaws no metal ever comes into contact with your work, so oil works well for me. The handle doesn't need anything on it.
 
Wax for the exposed metal.

Does the vice work ok? If it does I would leave it alone, the spring controls the stiffness of the leaver not the castlated nut.

The best tip for firing Is to clamp a length of wood in at vice to support it so you aren’t holding it up while trying to bolt it on.


Pete
 
As an option if you do remove that hideous paint, I like the finish you can see on my very similar vice here:

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The finish is just boiled linseed oil on bare metal. Thin it down a bit with turps sub/white spirit if it's very cold. Brush on a thin layer. Wait 30 mins or so. Wipe off all the surplus with rag or paper towels.

Think of this as an oil paint with no pigment. It will cure to a nice old look.

(This is nothing to do with lubricating the moving parts. You definitely don't want a drying oil for that. Ordinary 3-in-1 is fine. Or any dry lube, as is sold for bike chains. )
 
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