• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

wadkin pk restoration

W

wallace

Old Oak
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I would of normally posted my restoration exploits here but since the demise of old forum. I wont upload the full restoration but just where I'm at. Some of you have seen it elsewhere. I wanted to flip the extension table over and paint the underneath but I couldn't do it myself and I couldn't work out a way to flip it using my block and tackle. So I had to leave it undone which is a shame. I got the fence and crown guard adjuster done.





I replaced the cord that goes around the electrics door.



The saw fits quite well and I can use the full 48" cross cut





When I replaced the bearing button oilers on the slider I wondered how they got so trashed I now know why. I started making the slider the same level as the main table and the bottom of the sliding table catches the oilers. From the looks of things I think I will have to countersink the oilers.

 
No double with this saw. I do have the front half of the mitre which I got with my first pk. With a bit of luck I might be able to get the other half from that hoarder dealer I found. I just want to pick the right time to ask ;)
 
I thought I'd do a bit pimping out, instead of the normal wood inserts I got some brass flat bar.



To make it fit nice and snug I traced the ends and then glued it onto the brass, then used a disc sander to sand to the line. I had to remove 3/4mm off the thickness.



To do the long edge I had to remove 1.5mm so instead of just sanding I used the router table. and then finished off by sanding.



 
Pimping out !!!, steady on mark, I must say the brass looks amazing "pimped " I would say but on a more practical level how are you going to get the slot for the saw blade and riving knife ??.

Fingers crossed for the back mitre , I hope you can get one , dealers are a funny lot :eusa-pray:
 
For the blade slot I have a blade that I just use for aluminium. I just raise the blade through the brass, as long as you go steady it cuts pretty easy.
 
This saw came without its crown guard and adjuster so I got one from a standard sized pk. Only problem is the bars that support the guard are not long enough. I had some nice bar but it was only 25mm and the hole it goes into is 34mm. To get around this I drilled some holes in wood then epoxied them in place. Then I put the bar on the lathe and turned the wood down to size.







For some reason the bar that supports the crown guard was not long enough so I reused the bar that was too short earlier. This bit was too thick so it will need turning down. This is the first time I've done metal work on my RS lathe. The bar is only mild steel so it was pretty easy to do, it just took a while.

 
Looks like you need a few more steel collets on that tool post !!, by the way did you ever do a resto thread on your RS ?.
 
Mark I had to improvise and just drill holes in wood :) I did a resto on my RS but since I organised my photobucket account all my links went stupid. It was one of my first machines and I don't like the way I did it. I've learnt a lot since then. I have since got the sliding carriage as well. So I will be redoing it
 
I put the handles in the drill to clean them up, they had some chunks out so I went through the grits and finished with a bit renaissance wax. Some might be surprised to here that the handles are made from buffalo horn.



I also finished the bar that holds the crown guard. I probably could of done with a steady because I was getting lots of 'feedback?' in the middle of the bar. The bar nearest is the original

 
Mark, its all looking really good and I never new they were horn but they do look good. On the new bar are you going to try and put the flat on, I am not sure why you need it ?, is that were you tighten the locking bolt onto it.

thanks mark
 
Mark I cant see the point in the flat bit really, I might put a bit of brass bar down the hole to stop the bar getting marred when I tighten the handle.
I decided to redo the crown guard, I got some of that frog low tack tape which is only 14 times more expensive than normal masking tape. Still I was quite impressed, no bleed under or stuck bits of tape.









The mitre was looking a bit tired so I gave it a quick polish



I'm nearly finished, I just need to make some handles

 
I have never seen one of these old machines in the flesh and until I get an opportunity I'll just have to assume that they run as sweet as you make them look and that they are as much of a delight to use as they are to see in your posts.
 
Thanks Rod, Andy wadkin machines were extremely well built but some 'pattern makers machines' were built to metal working machine tolerances. Theres not a lot this wont do.
 
Once again you have done a wonderful job, I am not going to let my AGS see this thread it would sulk.
 
Thanks all, the next time you see a rusty looking piece of junk don't disregard it. British stuff was some of the best and with some tlc you can have the cheapest and best kit ever.





Even the blade is reusable, clean it up get it sharpened and a 16" cross cut blade

 
Mark, your crown guard looks beautiful !!

Never before has the words " wadkin gold " been more true !!!!

What are your plans for the mitre , it would be nice if you could get a bar fitted and one of those wadkin flip stops, I think the stardard bar length is 24 inch ? on them.
 
Mark it just so happens the quad had a length of angle welded to it when I got it. It took me ages to get it off. I have got a length of flip stop but I do like the proper wadkin ones
 
This saw was missing its handle that screws into the slider, I thought I'd have a go at making one.





I also made a pin for the quadrant to pivot on.

 
Mark, love the handle , looks really nice and I bet you did that on the RS.
Are you going to put timber either side of the pin on the flats ?

thanks Mark
 
Yes I did it on the RS. I am starting to like messing with metal, I'm tempted to look out for a metal lathe. I think I'll redo the quadrant pin. I only had some flat bar. I would like to make the top with a knurled grip.
 
mark, I am of the same thinking, it would be so useful to have a metal working lathe , even a little myford would be handy. I think doing these machines up we need one.
Also with the pin Jack advised us to have a stepped pin now like the pp on all pk's. What are your thoughts.
 
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