• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Wadkin PK restoration

Mike G":1or32ojd said:
When driving around in the bush in Zambia many years ago I came across an overgrown railway yard full of old steam locomotives. They're almost certainly sitting there to this day. They were used in logging, and when all the teak ...Rhodesian teak... ran out, they were parked up as redundant.

One of those would keep you busy for a week or two, and wouldn't it look pretty special when you were done. :)
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I've always been partial to a nice loco, if I had some money I think I would go down the traction engine route.
 
I managed to find some new old stock bearings for the princely sum of £8 for two, they are made in Japan so good quality. I think the SKF price was £76.



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Because the bearing had spun within the end bell I used some of this



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A stud extractor attempt that actually worked,



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I made a new stud



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It was obvious some one had been in here before to change the front big bearing. this spacer must of been bashed on.



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I rubbed it over some sand paper on a cast iron table to remove any dings. The blade flange bares on this so it should be flat.

Motor assembled and given some black paint



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Its like getting ready for surgery



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The locating dowels were a bit sad and some were bent, so I got some rods of various thickness to replace all of them on the machine.



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Anyone got a source for brass washers about 32mm with a 15mm hole and 3mm thick. I got some but they dont look correct. Wadkin washers always have a little chamfer.



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Double mitres are rocking horse poo and when they come up for sale go for about £700. I had some cast in bronze a couple of years back. The price wasn't that bad, I think it was about £150 per section then the machining. I went to one place and they wanted £300 per section to machine. I contacted Mr Doubleboost and a guy he knows did 3 sections for £400.



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Im not sure how to finish them, do I clean up the non machined part or paint them.
 
I like a rough cast look for non-machined parts. Dimpled or stippled or pock-marked, but not painted. I wouldn't attempt to polish those areas up like the machined surfaces. Just my view, and I'm normally wrong when it comes to machinery!
 
I quite like the affect of casting, the thing that bugs me is theirs some fettling so the cast affect is not uniform. How about an engine turned affect, :D
 
wallace":1oa2z5wx said:
Double mitres are rocking horse poo and when they come up for sale go for about £700.
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Which I've never really understood, the double mitre isn't exactly a critical piece of equipment for the machine. I don't think I've ever gone "Gee, I really wish I had a double mitre for this job" and I do a fair amount of work on a panel saw. I'm sure there are some that find them invaluable but I've never got the big fuss.
 
Trevanion":1ycaqgj3 said:
wallace":1ycaqgj3 said:
Double mitres are rocking horse poo and when they come up for sale go for about £700.
Click to expand...

Which I've never really understood, the double mitre isn't exactly a critical piece of equipment for the machine. I don't think I've ever gone "Gee, I really wish I had a double mitre for this job" and I do a fair amount of work on a panel saw. I'm sure there are some that find them invaluable but I've never got the big fuss.
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I call it the Forsberg affect.I cant think of another machine that has had such appeal globally.
 
I like how this coming together. I am really surprised the SKF bearings were that much. Those are large, but they’re not running at high speed or under odd loads. The bearings you got are a very good value.

Kirk
 
kirkpoore1":3firwrh0 said:
I like how this coming together. I am really surprised the SKF bearings were that much. Those are large, but they’re not running at high speed or under odd loads. The bearings you got are a very good value.

Kirk
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I think its more to do with them being imperial size.
 
wallace":4r8hssnj said:
...EB0g99m.png

Im not sure how to finish them, do I clean up the non machined part or paint them.
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I don't reckon they would look right all polished up, and the fettling marks may not take on the same patina as the rough cast surfaces - so I reckon paint.

Auscab on the Aussie forum has finally got all the missing bits for his PK - including a rip fence (painted yellow), a main mitre from a different PK (painted grey), and a secondary mitre from eBayUK (painted green).

I think they look good together. He doesn't :eusa-snooty: .

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Cheers, Vann.
 

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  • Auscab PK.jpg
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Got the tags cleaned up



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I put a tag on the break box to make it look more wadkin, this will be getting bolted to the back



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I need to find something to make a new on button



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This is what the sliding table frame sits on, it can be adjusted to set the level with the main table



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I had a bunch of riving knife brackets made a couple of years ago, I just need to find a suitable threaded rod, nothing I have fits



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I wanted a crown guard in keeping with the saws age so put my feelers out, a trip to halifax and a few quid poorer



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It has some damage which I'm hoping I can braze up



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Had a bit of a nightmare with the electrickery bits. The saw came with a really nice brake setup. I wired it to the motor and it worked. It has buttons with 3 wire control. I attached the wires to the old buttons that I want to use exactly like the modern ones were done and nothing. So I thought I'd check it and put the modern buttons back on, and nothing. If I manually push the contacts the motor runs. Not sure what I've done, no magic was lost and I changed the infeed wires around because some starters dont like 3 phase from a static.

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I take it this will be going in the livingroom when finished Wallace?

So green just now
 
fiveeyes":2epa9ucd said:
Wallace, that is, if I may, a cracking resto.
Malc...way better than nice ;)
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Yebbut…..my 'nice' is 'really nice'! ;)
 
Malc2098":21hv46t1 said:
......Yebbut…..my 'nice' is 'really nice'! ;)
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So if you actually mean that something is nice, rather than really nice, what do you say? Adequate? Passable? OK? Good enough? :lol:
 
Mike G":dr4z6e89 said:
Malc2098":dr4z6e89 said:
......Yebbut…..my 'nice' is 'really nice'! ;)
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So if you actually mean that something is nice, rather than really nice, what do you say? Adequate? Passable? OK? Good enough? :lol:
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Depends!
 
The crown guard had some holes drilled into it and some damage, so I thought I would try and braze it.



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As I was brazing I noticed a hair line crack appear. I think it would of been better doing it with the mig using bronze wire, then their wouldn't have been so much heat.



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A bit fugly



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The nose piece was missing but I had one in my stash.



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This must of been off a smaller saw because the bar is too small for a pk, luckily again I had a longer one in my stash



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I needed a table stop for the slider



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The knurled knob is not my work, I had a batch of them done off doubleboosts pal who does the cnc stuff



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No presests in the table



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Stunning. Beautiful. Gorgeous. Wonderful.

But take that crown guard back off and have another go at the brazing with a Dremmel or similar. I'm sure you will be driven mad by it if you don't.
 
Eventually you will get the hang of doing these Wallace if you practice enough 8-)

Amazing work.

I would not be able to leave the Crown Guard though without making the W and A and outer edge perfect.
 
I was tempted to have another go at fixing the the guard but I thought I might make the crack travel further and ruin it altogether.

i'm not that clued up on brazing and noticed that when I was cleaning the blobs of braze up with the dremmel there were bits that were really hard like glass, my burrs would barely touch them. Is that a lump of flux?
 
For as long as you are prepared to do the write up on theses refurbs we will never tire of reading them.
Thank you.
 
wallace":1utp1geo said:
...and noticed that when I was cleaning the blobs of braze up with the dremmel there were bits that were really hard like glass, my burrs would barely touch them. Is that a lump of flux?
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Yes. I my experience usually the flux breaks off okay, but some bits are really hard and stubborn - like glaze on pottery. A second attempt a few weeks later is often successful - I think the flux softens as it absorbs moisture from the air.

Cheers, Vann.
 
Absolutely stunning Wallace!

Sent from my Redmi Note 9S using Tapatalk
 
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