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Wadkin surface planer

S

Stoatally

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I've just picked up a Wadkin RAD 197 surface planer. I'd like to find out more about it - so far only info I've been given is that its tet number relates to pre-1937 and that it would have been grey?

It's got a pump motor on it with an air operated on/off switch. Both of which I assume are additions.

I'd like to know how to set it all up, and where to get parts (if possible) to restore it to more like it was. I'd need to keep it 240v for now. I've picked up some 6" planer blades and ordered some setting jigs.

Any advice / pointers please?

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Wallace is your man. I'd just like to say..................lucky bugger! That's a great piece of kit.
 
Wadkin became a limted company in 1935 and changed the name in 36, so judging from your test number I would guess your machine is one of the last as wadkin & Co. The earliest test number I have is 8081 and dates from 1937. Because your machine says RAD this means it was originally a DC machine. Originally it would have had a brass guard. The head is a clam shell and doesn't have anyway to retain the knives if they slip. You might want to check the studs and nuts are in good order by reversing the nut and trying to thread it, if it sticks then the threads are stretched from over tightening. Its bigger brother the RB had provision for taking moulding knives. I used to have one and really liked it, I did have to shim the outfeed table to make it coplaner to the other one.
Also the original motor would have been directly bolted to head via that big flange
 
The third blade arrived yesterday (I didn't check how many I actually needed so only ordered two originally).

I have one of the axminster vernier style setting jigs but can't work out how to get the beds low enough to loosen the clamping nuts whilst still being able to use the jig.

Can anyone shed any light on setting blades etc?
 
I've tried various jigs on various machines over the years and keep coming back to the drag test.
It is quite sensitive and good for both blade height and comparison over the width if the table.
Keep it simple is my suggestion.
Bob
 
So I'm guessing that's going to be a really long winded?

Wind outfeed table right down to lowest setting,
slacken nuts,
gauge blade height,
tighten nuts
reset outfeed to highest position (or chosen datum),
try drag test,
outfeed to lowest setting,
slacken nuts,
gauge height,
tighten nuts,
reset outfeed,
check new drag test measurements,
repeat until all 3 knives are set within a tolerance,
torque nuts to TAF?
 
I'm not familiar with the specific machine or indeed how far out of whack it is.

I'd start with setting the infeed table so that the depth scale reads zero.

The set the outfeed table level with the infeed. check that the cutter block and the tables are parallel side to side as close as possible.
Adjust the infeed down out of the way and fit one knife using the drag test. A couple of mm is usually about right. I tend to start at one end, just nip the blade, check the other end and then check the middle. Ideally you don't want the knife sticking out very far.

Tighten all along the knife. fit the other knives to give the same drag result. Bring up the infeed table and check again all knife bolts are tight.

Do a trial light cut. looking for completely flat suface compared to one or other table and no perceptible snipe at either end.

HTH

Bob
 
I have the setting jig that goes with your machine, you set the table to blade height using it. I use it to set the blades in my Multico planer, it works a treat. I bought it on ebay some years ago, not look recently but you might find one.
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I think I'm getting more confused!

I can't see any markings / depth scale for either table

I've been out for another look at the cutter block.
Here it is with both tables at working height, resulting in a small amount of snipe.
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Here with outfeed table as low as possible
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Both tables as low as posible
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It seems the nuts hold the plate on but which cap holds on which blade - which way to have the cutter block when undoing the nuts? How should it be orientated when undoing the nuts? I've tried searching youtube but can't seem to find any information on changing blades. I could get it if they were held in with gib(sp??) screws but I can't fathom this. Will have a good clean up and look round over the weekend.
Looking at one side of the block would you release the blade:

This way (can't use outfeed as reference)
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or That way (can then use outfeed but will it release that blade or two the next one round)?
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I am not surprised there are no markings, on a small machine like that.
I don't know how to adjust the height of your blades, there are jack screws on the Multico. Wallace will probably be able to talk you though the adjustments.
I think I would set the blades at a nominal height in the block and then set the out feed table to that height, that's very easy with the Wadkin jig. Then set the in feed table to give the depth of cut you require. You do need both tables to start off coplaner.

That is a nice looking machine and should see you out, just like my Wadkin table saw will still going when I have popped my clogs!

I hope that helps.
 
Even your first picture with both tables at working height, there seems to be a great chasm between the tables by modern standards.
But of course the close the gap, the higer the tables relative to the block and the more the knives have to stick out. So there is one compromise to make.

If you are getting snipe then maybe aim for a smaller amount of drag on the set up.

Those knife clamp nut look pretty meaty and better than the typical 10mm af bolt heads on modern machines.

Bob
 
Thank you all

All done. Set outfeed table to highest operating level (or thereabouts). Slackened off all the nuts and set knives as deep in as possible, then nipped up the nuts.

Using outfeed table as reference, I measured the distance moved when a metal straight edge was carried by the knives. Used a small hook to lift knives up an a plastic screwdriver handle to gentle tap down (as required). I now haw c.1/8th" drag on each end of all 3 knives.

No snipe and lovely smooth finish. Now just need to make up some push block/pads and work out how to make a sensible fence.
 
Well done, it should serve you very nicely.
You appear to have a cast iron fence in the picture you posted, is there something wrong with it? It looks similar to the fence on my Multico and that works OK, you may need to adjust it to 90 degrees from the in feed table.
 
I read somewhere that quite a few of our merkin cousins like the idea of the typical European guards whereas some Europeans like the idea of the US pork chop guard.
Maybe the thought of a pork chop might appeal to you to try. Certainly out to easier to make and easy to finesse the profile with an MDF pork chop.

Bob
 
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