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What's the best way to remove rust?

RogerS

RogerS

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The sills on our Mazda need some TLC. The rust hasn't gone all the way through but has badly pitted and/or fused and raised bits. I've run a wire-brush in an angle grinder over it which removed a lot of the surface stuff but hasn't touched the raised/fused bits.

I'm reluctant to use the actual grinder as the sill metal will be very thin but can't really see any other option unless anyone can suggest anything?

Would rust remover attack the raised, fused areas?



 
Thanks, Fred...duly ordered.

Would you or anyone else happen to know what the sequence is ?

Derust with suitable gunge

Apply some two-pack epoxy to fill in the holes. But do you prime the area first? Then apply the two-pack?
 
Remove all rust down to metal with the grinder + flap disc, prime, fill, sand, prime, check to see if any more filling needs doing, if not then undercoat/top coats and laquer (if needed).
 
Thanks, Fred. Sounds like you've been there and done it !
 
Lol, yes! I am a sculptural artist, I have a small collection of 7 motorbikes and I do some work for an architectural ironworks.
 
In the old days I used to paint with jenolite (phosphoric acid) after most rust removed by grinding etc.
Holes made good with car body filler and or glass fibre sheets/resin.
Spray with Red Oxide Primer or Auto Body Primer.
 
Think I'm going to have to raise the car up on some good old-fashioned wood as I don't think I'll be able to get the spray can at the right angle seeing as how it's on the lower part of the sill. :cry:

Still, I'm saving myself £800 which was what I was quoted for the two sills. More tools !
 
In the old days I used to paint with jenolite (phosphoric acid) after most rust removed by grinding etc.
Click to expand...
Was that for cast iron, like on steam engines, before they invented the internal combustion engine?
 
Fred, that flap wheel is brilliant, thanks.

One question. I've dosed it with Hammerite Rust Remover Gel. The tin says 'removes rust to bare metal'...is that right? The rust changes colour to a black but certainly not dissolved leaving the metal. Or am I not leaving it long enough?

Can't get through to Hammerite Tech dept. to ask.
 
Yes, it turns it black. It kills the rust, converts it into something else to prevent it spreading, but I don't know what. You can leave it like that, and put the primer on top and fill. But I would remove all rust if possible, and get down to bare metal. If you have a Dremel, or a drill with Dremel bits (like grind stones and sanding discs/drums) use that to get into the corners that the flap wheel can't get to.

cheers
fred
 
It sounds like something similar to Jenolite - it turns the rust to a black compound. I always sanded that off to bare metal.

Rod
 
If the affected area is all on the lower part of the cill, it is possible to mask off a tidy horizontal line and brush on a few coats of rubberised underseal compound which should not only keep the moisture out but give a surface more tolerant to stone chips. I've done this with cars in the past and it looks a lot better than it sounds.

Bob
 
Project is coming along nicely. Thoroughly recommend paints4u.com. Their stuff does what it says on the tin and the colour match (metallic grey) is perfect.
 
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