2 measuring questions .

[SteveMP]

A couple things i sometimes struggle with in regards to measuring, and best practices.

1. When you want to setup a combi square to a specific line on the rule, how do you do this when you can’t really “see” the line. Like for example in the pic below, its hard to tell if i am seeing the line or the reflection of the line in the stock, then the stock gets in the way. How do you do this accurately?

2. When setting a wheel marking gauge using a square blade, how do you set it when its hard to see? I suppose its not good to let the wheel fall into the groove? I sometimes have to hold it up to the light just right with some backlighting to see when the edge if the wheel is right on the line. Its clear in the pic I take as the iphone camera focuses in and adjusts light and is held close but my eyes from arms length its nowhere near this clear to see.

 

[Mike G]

Hand tool work very seldom works to measurements. It's extremely rarely that I ever find myself trying to set a marking gauge (or a combination square) to a ruler or tape. I generally find myself working with trial and error on a piece of scrap stock to set up either of them properly. The only advantage I can think of of those wheel gauges is that they mark at the absolute outside end of the shaft, so can be used to set a gauge to the exact thickness of something simply by sitting the tool on the edge of the wood and then dropping the shaft and wheel down to whatever your piece of wood is resting on. Same with a combination square. Honestly, my best advice is to try to avoid ever having to set out anything to measurements.

 

[Dr.Al]

I probably measure a lot more than Mike does (I like to design stuff up front and then I'll use measurements for the early stuff before referencing off whatever I've already done). When I want to measure a distance in from an edge, I find combination squares a pain to use for the same reasons you've mentioned (but also because of the groove for the locking thing being awkward sometimes depending on which way up you want to hold the square).

These are far, far better: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-steel-layout-square-900043 / https://amzn.to/3s2VkAk

I use mine so much that I've got two of them now. Anytime I'm working to a measurement from an edge I'll reach for one of them.

As for setting a marking gauge (wheel or otherwise) I rarely need to do it especially accurately (except for the case Mike mentioned of plonking it on top of a board and letting the wheel drop to the bench) so I just eyeball it against a 1 mm scale on a rule and don't worry unduly about how accurate it is. If it needs to be really accurate to a dimension, I'll use the layout square linked above with a knife to mark a line on the edge of a bit of scrap and then drop the wheel into the knife line, push the body up to the edge and lock it down.

 

[Cabinetman]

Yes I’m with Mike, once overall parameters of the thing to be made is set, everything is marked from previously made parts, very rare that I measure after starting out.
There are lots of ways to very accurately transfer sizes from one part to another - usually by touch and a sharp knife. Also apart from where a gap would show a bad fit I don’t think in woodwork that anything has to be exact, just as well Im not making jet engines lol.

 

[Doug]

. The only advantage I can think of of those wheel gauges is that they mark at the absolute outside end of the shaft, so can be used to set a gauge to the exact thickness of something simply by sitting the tool on the edge of the wood and then dropping the shaft and wheel down to whatever your piece of wood is resting on.

They are also really handy when marking out in rebates, I use mine a lot for this.

 

[SteveMP]

They are also really handy when marking out in rebates, I use mine a lot for this.

Yeah for mortise and tenons the knife wall they make is nice, and for ease of setting for dovetails, lap joints etc.

 

[SteveMP]

Hand tool work very seldom works to measurements. It's extremely rarely that I ever find myself trying to set a marking gauge (or a combination square) to a ruler or tape. I generally find myself working with trial and error on a piece of scrap stock to set up either of them properly. The only advantage I can think of of those wheel gauges is that they mark at the absolute outside end of the shaft, so can be used to set a gauge to the exact thickness of something simply by sitting the tool on the edge of the wood and then dropping the shaft and wheel down to whatever your piece of wood is resting on. Same with a combination square. Honestly, my best advice is to try to avoid ever having to set out anything to measurements.

While I understand the concept, oftentimes I am following a plan someone made, so its nice to follow along as accurately as possible avoid issues down the road. Also, for repeatability in setting for similar parts later on. Like if i setup some parts where a joint is 1/4” from an edge on 3/4” material, and i need to make another one or replace a part that gets messed up, i’d like to be able to repeat the same setting so they look right.

 

[RogerS]

I probably measure a lot more than Mike does (I like to design stuff up front and then I'll use measurements for the early stuff before referencing off whatever I've already done). When I want to measure a distance in from an edge, I find combination squares a pain to use for the same reasons you've mentioned (but also because of the groove for the locking thing being awkward sometimes depending on which way up you want to hold the square).

These are far, far better: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-steel-layout-square-900043 / https://amzn.to/3s2VkAk

I use mine so much that I've got two of them now. Anytime I'm working to a measurement from an edge I'll reach for one of them.

As for setting a marking gauge (wheel or otherwise) I rarely need to do it especially accurately (except for the case Mike mentioned of plonking it on top of a board and letting the wheel drop to the bench) so I just eyeball it against a 1 mm scale on a rule and don't worry unduly about how accurate it is. If it needs to be really accurate to a dimension, I'll use the layout square linked above with a knife to mark a line on the edge of a bit of scrap and then drop the wheel into the knife line, push the body up to the edge and lock it down.

Absolutely…I have at least 3. Really useful having one set for this part of a joint, another set for a different setting, rebate whatever. Especially useful when doing repetitive stuff.

 

[SteveMP]

I probably measure a lot more than Mike does (I like to design stuff up front and then I'll use measurements for the early stuff before referencing off whatever I've already done). When I want to measure a distance in from an edge, I find combination squares a pain to use for the same reasons you've mentioned (but also because of the groove for the locking thing being awkward sometimes depending on which way up you want to hold the square).

These are far, far better: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-steel-layout-square-900043 / https://amzn.to/3s2VkAk

I use mine so much that I've got two of them now. Anytime I'm working to a measurement from an edge I'll reach for one of them.

As for setting a marking gauge (wheel or otherwise) I rarely need to do it especially accurately (except for the case Mike mentioned of plonking it on top of a board and letting the wheel drop to the bench) so I just eyeball it against a 1 mm scale on a rule and don't worry unduly about how accurate it is. If it needs to be really accurate to a dimension, I'll use the layout square linked above with a knife to mark a line on the edge of a bit of scrap and then drop the wheel into the knife line, push the body up to the edge and lock it down.

That one looks a lot better than the version I have. I figured this Japanese one would be ok but the little "stop" slips easy and gets out of whack
One i have

Amazon.com

 

[Mike G]

While I understand the concept, oftentimes I am following a plan someone made, so its nice to follow along as accurately as possible avoid issues down the road. Also, for repeatability in setting for similar parts later on. Like if i setup some parts where a joint is 1/4” from an edge on 3/4” material, and i need to make another one or replace a part that gets messed up, i’d like to be able to repeat the same setting so they look right.

Of course I have exactly these same issues. I take measurement out of it if at all possible, and simply set the distance on something, be it a combination square, a marking gauge, a pair of dividers, or whatever, and leave that set until the job is finished. I have 5 or 6 marking gauges, and on some jobs, most of them are in use. The only issue then is remembering which gauge is giving me which dimension/ mark. I keep off-cuts of all the different stock sizes and rebates etc for reference in case I need to re-make anything later on. Transferring a size from one piece of wood to another is dead easy, so long as you don't try and add a tape measure or a ruler into the mix. Don't allow measurement to confuse you as to the difference between precision and accuracy.

 

[Mike G]

Yeah for mortise and tenons the knife wall they make is nice, and for ease of setting for dovetails, lap joints etc.

I don't think they're a lot of use for M&Ts, or for DTs. We shouldn't be referencing off the cut end of a piece of wood. We should be working from shoulders, and those can be all marked at the same time with a knife, or copied each time from a reference piece, again, using a square and a knife. And the wheel gauge is inherently inaccurate, because the shaft doesn't rub along the face of the stock material as it does with an orthodox pin-type marking gauge.

 

[SteveMP]

I don't think they're a lot of use for M&Ts, or for DTs. We shouldn't be referencing off the cut end of a piece of wood. We should be working from shoulders, and those can be all marked at the same time with a knife, or copied each time from a reference piece, again, using a square and a knife. And the wheel gauge is inherently inaccurate, because the shaft doesn't rub along the face of the stock material as it does with an orthodox pin-type marking gauge.

Well they are good enough for Rob Cosman, and I am not quite up to his level yet. So works fine for me. And the way to set thickness off of the actual stock you are using is super easy.

 

[Mike G]

Well they are good enough for Rob Cosman, and I am not quite up to his level yet. So works fine for me. And the way to set thickness off of the actual stock you are using is super easy.

Yeah......Youtube.......It must be right.

I did actually say that the one advantage they have is for setting the stock thickness.