• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

CORE Tool Kit

Mike G

Mike G

Petrified Pine
Joined
Jul 30, 2014
Messages
12,503
Reaction score
3,086
Location
Suffolk
Name
Mike
Hammer, a mallet, 2 saws (big one and small one), a drill, a brace (and bits), a square, a tape measure, pencil, chisels up to 1", a block plane, a jack plane, a punch set, a screw driver set, pincers, some rasps and a spokeshave.

All the rest is fluff.......and you don't need it ;)
 
I was always taught, estwing hammer - leather gripped for joiners or blue rubbery ones -back in the day after alot of use they use to go slippery.

A record no4 smoothing plane- not the crap knurled lever cap thing though. If its only crap knurled lever available go for Stanley equivalent.

An india combination stone with bottle of 3 in 1 ( change to more expensive diamond if you wish)
A 12" Stanley rabone combination square.
Stanley jetcut fine saw (11 tpi)
Good old site bashing blue handled course sandvik (7tpi)
Record 060.5 low angle block plane

The rest always use to be Marples
Marples rhubarb and custard splitproof chisel- selling point use to be they'd replace handle if it broke

Marples bevel
Marples 9 inch try square - better with brass wear plate
Marples mortise gauge.
Marples .....m235 ? I think auger bits up to 1 1/4 they had a hex end so would work in cordless or brace

Finally, Axminster 0.5mm to 12.5 twist drill bits

That was the basics for a joiners kit anyway. We always had to make our first mallet but guess you could put in a little wooden one - emir use to be the best.

Coley
 
Just looking in toolbox [emoji6]
I forgot a few [emoji15]
R235 were the best auger bits. Axminsters offering of auger bits don't come close.

Stanley screwdriver set - including pozi 1&2 then various size slotted

Eclipse coping saw

A hacksaw, but I haven't found one I'm happy with yet [emoji6]
 
ehuryme2.jpg

Quite important was a decent set of old skool compass's for scribing.
I bought the big Axminster pair in the picture before finally finding the brass pair. Axys was to big and clumsy and you could never tell if it was the point of the compasses touching the wood or the big knuckley lump about an inch up from the tip.
By crap buy twice was what the old boys use to say, so it took a while to build up a basic tool kit. I use to buy an auger bit a week with my apprentice wage [emoji41]
 
Sorry,
ebyse6ej.jpg

Lufkin measures were always well known as being well made. Now there not as available the Stanley powerlock range is well regarded.
All the tools ive mentioned are middle of the road but good quality reliable stuff. You can obviously buy cheaper rubbish or go the other way and spend as much on 1 chisel as the whole marples set. This kit will be reliable and if something does go wrong it'll probably be down to operator error rather than the tools being to blame [emoji72]
 
A general purpose file
A saw file- for the auger wings
a wire brush
Im not spamming [emoji38]
It'd be good to see a decent toolkit that would be good throughout. I saw so many people turn up with mickey mouse tools only to be then gutted when they didn't perform as they expected.

Good on ya for potentionally assembling a kit that wont disappoint [emoji6]
 
A decent apron to keep clean. I've tried loads over the years but the best one by far in terms of comfort (60+ hours a week) and also functionality has to be the veritas apron.
If axy could make a clone with a few tweaks im sure they'd sell loads. The main issue with the veritas (besides the price) is it states not suitable for machine washing which means it doesn't get washed that often [emoji15] After probably about 8 months the stitching is starting to come loose on the pockets. I'll probably buy another just because of the sheer comfort but if there was a cheaper alternative I'd give it a try.

Mods, apologies for the machine gun posting. I kept on forgetting/remembering bits I thought might be of use- feel free to squash all the posts into 1 if you prefer [emoji6]

Edit: 2 or 3 decent 2h pencils ( preferably staedtler) and a metal bodied pencil sharpener - also staedtler [emoji6] takes a while to realise sharpening pencils with a chisel doesn't keep the chisel very sharp for long [emoji10]
 
I would have thought a sliding bevel is a must have. Not sure of a decent make but I know that mine is a PITA because the adjustment lever is constantly fouling the timber.
 
Woodbloke":cj3cbv8o said:
........As expected Mike :roll: but which makes please…really good, 'last a lifetime' quality - Rob
Click to expand...

Not sure why we need the rolly eyes, Rob. You didn't ask for brand names in your OP.
 
Woodbloke":3lfc2d2s said:
I should have added that these tools might be the ones that a prospective student about to start a cabinetmaking course, say at the Barnsely 'shop, would be expected to purchase.
Click to expand...
In which case the tools I listed might not be pretty enough. Probably do with being a little more specific next time you ask [emoji6] I thought it worth wasting half an hour to offer a decent general toolkit. Looks like it wasn't worth being half hour late for tea now [emoji20]
 
Don't worry Coley. I suspect we are just putting in the groundwork for an Axminster marketing exercise. Look out for a special deal on a "last-a-lifetime core toolkit for furniture school students".
 
The kit I mentioned will last a lifetime ! You asked for specific brand names to Mikes tools he mentioned, so I assumed he had said the right sort of tools just not mentioned any brands. It was only after both of us had stated a kit for general woodworking you then changed it to cabinetry - what a complete waste of time [emoji38]
 
Okay guys somehow this has degenerated into a teddy slinging match which really isn't necessary from what I can see.

I have just remembered why Tom previously deleted the Rolling Eyes smilie, which is what I will also be doing in a few mins… Nothing but trouble that thing!!!

Rob's original question was valid, as were Mike and Coley's replies, but somewhere in between a comprehensive reply from Coley and a lack of context initially from Rob we've managed to start throwing toys out of the pram.

We're all big, daft and ugly enough to let this lie now and get back on topic, so I don't see any need to lock it right now, so long as you all promise to be good little boys from now on… :eusa-whistle:

About your business gentlemen, nothing to see here. :P

Cheers
Mark
 
This seems a little off topic now but I wonder if a general joinery type kit might also be of interest to someone else looking to join the trade. If I was passed an Axminster book and there had been a little J symbol beside a recommended hard wearing and trusted collection of tools it would have made starting out alot easier. - I'm really trying to salvage something from my tool list [emoji3]
 
I think there's two valid threads in here now,

1. Rob's initial questions around a top notch apprentice cabinetmakers toolkit…
2. ...and a decent, 'essentials' kit for your general DIY'er/joinery, chippie apprentice.

Assuming they differ at all, which in many cases comes down to who you are, how much money you've got, and whether you believe you can make perfectly good stuff with a record and not need a Veritas, which again there is no right or wrong answer to.

Given Wizard's recent questions around toolage/workshop requirements maybe there some value in a thread on what you absolutely need, what's very handy but not essential and lovely stuff that's nice to have but not absolutely required, from both a hand and power toll perspective…?

Thoughts?

Cheers
Mark
 
This is a very difficult question or should I say difficult answer.
I used to send out a tool list to incoming students with recommended tools to buy. But experience has shown me that buying the right tools for the individual is more tricky and buying the most expensive kit.
Anyone can soon spend a fortune on tools and getting a student to buy the most expensive kit is unfair and unnecessary.
I like the students to try out my tools for a few weeks, to gain an understanding of how to use them and what feels right for them.
Also anyone who earns a living from woodworking understands that all these tools need to earn their keep.
The tools on Coley's list are very valid for his situation but they may not be right for my type of work.
I could right a list but they they maybe what I sell rather than what Axi stock. The reason for this is that we stock what has worked for our students and some of these brands have been dropped by others.
Peter
 
My apologies for over-reacting to the rolly eyes emoticon, which I always thought of as the height of rudeness. It niggles the hell out of me, and if it's gone, it won't be mourned here. I've "known" Rob (in the internet forum sense), for years and never had an issue with him at all. I guess a quick PM might have been a more appropriate way of reacting.

Apologies to all.
 
In addition to, or supplementing the above posts:

A good, appropriately sized toolbox (allowing for some growth).
A good combination square, such as a Starrett, with a good, easily read steel ruler in it. If you want to splurge, get two rulers (small/6" and large/16").
A card scraper.
For a mallet, I prefer a round mallet with a green rubber (urethane?) head rather than wood. I've been using one of these for about 20 years and it's as good as new, unlike the two wood mallets that preceded it.
A good sanding block. Frankly, I haven't found a good one yet, but I bet there's one out there someplace.

Kirk
 
I was at the Bayeux tapestry museum today and as well as the bit of cloth itself, there were all sorts of woodworking tools use by Williams men to prepare equipment for the invasion.
I could not see any makers marks but this might give you Neanderthals some ideas.



:lol: :lol:

Bob
 
Kirk mentioned that he couldn't find a decent sanding block. I make mine - glue an odd carpet tile to a piece of 18mm ply with PVA, when dry bandsaw to the required sizes. There is just enough "give" in the carpet.
Simple and cheap. :)
 
Hoppalong Cassidy":z80yri03 said:
Kirk mentioned that he couldn't find a decent sanding block. I make mine - glue an odd carpet tile to a piece of 18mm ply with PVA, when dry bandsaw to the required sizes. There is just enough "give" in the carpet.
Simple and cheap. :)
Click to expand...

The problem I have is not the give on the base, it is holding the paper tight and changing it easily. My dad had an old powered hand sander back in the 70's that had the right idea--on one end it had a spring loaded clamp, and on the other end it had a sort of hexagonal roll that you could turn to pull in and tighten the paper with. That, with a good pad and handle, would make a great sanding block.

Kirk
 
TheTiddles":oojo722v said:
There's only two things you need in a toolkit, a hammer and a condom, if you can't fix it with a hammer, f*#k it.
Click to expand...

:lol: - Rob

Edit:…and a track saw :eusa-whistle: - Rob
 
This is what LOML bought me for a wedding present in 1962.

Stanley No. 4.
Marples Chisels 1/4" 1/2" 5/8", 1"
Marples Marking gauge, (Scratchy-nail type)
Marples Mortice Gauge
6" Try Square (Rosewood and steel )
Sliding bevel Rosewood and steel.
Mallet
Cross-peen hammer
Pincers
Panel Saw (Cross-cut)
Combination India stone
Brace and 12 Bits (Ridgeway) 1/4" up to 1 and a 1/4"
Coping Saw
13 ppi steel-backed tenon saw (Cross-cut)


Cost-wise, it was a significant sum in those days and I knew I'd have to take care of it. I think the quality speaks for itself, as the only thing I have lost is the original brace, which was stolen in the late sixties. Probably my fault for leaving a door open!

HTH Rob. :D
 
Loghead":26fw1eqj said:
This is what LOML bought me for a wedding present in 1962.

Stanley No. 4.
Marples Chisels 1/4" 1/2" 5/8", 1"
Marples Marking gauge, (Scratchy-nail type)
Marples Mortice Gauge
6" Try Square (Rosewood and steel )
Sliding bevel Rosewood and steel.
Mallet
Cross-peen hammer
Pincers
Panel Saw (Cross-cut)
Combination India stone
Brace and 12 Bits (Ridgeway) 1/4" up to 1 and a 1/4"
Coping Saw


13 ppi steel-backed tenon saw (Cross-cut)


Cost-wise, it was a significant sum in those days and I knew I'd have to take care of it. I think the quality speaks for itself, as the only thing I have lost is the original brace, which was stolen in the late sixties. Probably my fault for leaving a door open!

HTH Rob. :D
Click to expand...

:text-goodpost:
Many thanks John, a good answer to my question. I think a great deal of that is still relevant today though I'd probably update it to reflect current trends, but in essence, it's a good list. I've had replies back from many teaching establishments and it's been quite educative to see the differences and common denominators in the replies - Rob
 
I must admit Rob it's a noble quest but also a well trodden path with plenty of good examples out there already. Most recently it has been Schwarz, before that nearly all joinery books have a "Tool Chapter" right from the 1970's all the way back to Moxon, then there is Hayward with his Tool Book (one of my faves)

I wonder if there is much mileage in this concept. The plane must be a type???? Veritas custom, LN A2, Bronze Body, Bevel Up, Bevel Down :shock:. We'll be here forever :lol:

On the term "lifetime" as long as the tools are good they last. Although not modern and sexy, India stones, S&J Saws, Bailey Planes, Blue Chip Chisels and the like have lasted in some cases more than two peoples lifetimes and are in 90% of cases for 90% of woodworkers up to the job.

I hope I have not missed the point Rob as it is a sweet idea. I think also 90% have a good few items just for a bit of fun ;)
 
Not being too much into this hand thingy stuff .................

Steel engineers square - a large one and a small one
Brace and some good bits
Metal rules of 1000mm and 500mm
Some good drawing equipment like Staedtler stuff
Stanley #3
Stanley marking gauge

Cheers
Phil
 
Just a little update on this one chaps. I've had replies from around nine (or so) teaching 'shops and colleges inc. Barnsley's, Chichester College and David Charlesworth, to name but three. The lists make quite interesting reading so my next task is to try and find some common denominators and from this, put together a basic, core list of top quality hand tools which I can let Ian Styles have in a couple of weeks for his consideration and we'll see where it goes from there.
Interestingly, almost all the people I contacted required good quality, branded marking-out squares such as Starrett or M/W, which is something that Ax (at the moment) don't stock, but there's a possibility that they may do in the future. The thing that wasn't factored in at the time I made enquiries was the new range of Veritas BD custom planes, so that's probably one more item to fit into the equation - Rob
 
The thing about planes is that the types overlap so much. If you're talking about a set of core tools, you almost need to say you need, for example, four planes (smoother, jack or possibly jointer, block, and rabbet) to cover the basics, and then explain how the others fit in around them.

Kirk
 
Hi Everyone, Rob about 6/7 years ago when I started woodworking and joined the ukw I asked a similar question to the one Coley answered. Back then you were kind enough to send me a comprehensive answer which I followed and it served me well, thank you. But your slightly different slant on that question is intriguing to me now. I would love to know what answers you have had from those others you have posed it to. I still consider myself a beginner, albeit with a little experience now, and would like to know what the experts think are good value long term essentials. A part of me thinks that to go to the next level I need to buy the more expensive LN, Veritas, etc. brands, but I am still reluctant to pay out that sort of money without being sure that it will make a positive difference to my woodworking or be good value for money in the long term.
My only experience so far with the more expensive brands is when I bought a single 1" LN bevel chisels with a view to buying the rest of the set if it was that much better than the off-the-shelf set of Stanley chisels I bought 7 or so years ago. I haven't bought the rest of the set because I don't notice any difference in the chisels.
In an effort to contribute a little to your research I do think that my eze lap diamond stones are a good quality product and I wish I had bought them before buying all the oil and water stones I bought first.

Cheers Froggy.
 
Froggy":2em51l1r said:
I would love to know what answers you have had from those others you have posed it to. I still consider myself a beginner, albeit with a little experience now, and would like to know what the experts think are good value long term essentials.
Cheers Froggy.
Click to expand...
Froggy, many thanks for your reply and I'm chuffed that you found my recommendations on 'the other place' useful. As regards the replies I've had, they're pretty varied but there are common factors running through which I need to tease out. F'rinstance, almost all the replies mentioned a No4.5 plane (from the big three) as opposed to a No4 with the exception being the Barnsley 'shop who like a No7.

Either way, once I've done my evaluation of the results, I'll post a list on this thread - Rob
 
Look forward to seeing those results Rob. For what it's worth on the size of planes - if I had to choose one it would be the 5 1/2 (mines a Stanley).
 
Froggy":1sgdivrn said:
Look forward to seeing those results Rob. For what it's worth on the size of planes - if I had to chose one it would be the 5 1/2 (mines a Stanley).
Click to expand...

Sorry, just read wot I writ and it should be a No5.5, not 4.5 as stated. Apologies - Rob
 
The 5 1/2 is the goto plane and the first one I recommend to my students.
I know David Savage used to recommend the 6 and as you say Barnsley the 7. I think this harks back to Alan Pete's who loved his 7. This used to be my plane of choice before the quality brands came along. It was one of the Stanley/record planes that had weight within it. My 5 1/2 would be the Clifton or the WR if the budget won't stretch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top