Jimmy Mack's 'Shop Build (photos & video)

[Mike G]

Love the sketch, Jim. Don't trust your handwriting to be legible?

Yep, that's the right detail, although I suggest you take your ridge beam back to the line of outside of the support posts, and depending on the hole in the tiles, and the dimensions of the proposed overhang, you might want to extend your battens out to the face of the vertical boarding/ back of barge board. Don't forget the silicon bead to the junction between slates and barge board.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Thanks Mike, I'll run the battern over the cladding... I'm thinking of getting the metal trim you slip the edge of the tiles in. Looks like a tidy solution.


One side of sheathing up this afternoon, gravity almost broke me doing it solo.

Hope I've not been too lazy at the ridge meet with a 10-15mm gap [emoji43]

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[Mike G]

You can nail a batten over that gap alongside the ridge beam. Well, under that gap, strictly. Anyway......on the underside of the OSB.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

I've two layers of plasterboard, so could cover with those... however this is a poor start on the acoustic treatment [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[Mike G]

Oh, I'd forgotten those. If you thought fixing the OSB in place was a bundle of laughs, wait until you've played with the plasterboard for a while! If you really feel motivated, you could spray some expanding foam in that gap(buy a foam gun: any other way is self-torture).

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Sniff...

Sniff...

[emoji25]

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[Mike G]

One of the more enigmatic posts this forum has witnessed......

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Climbing down the side of my gable it feels a little detached.

What ties my gable ridge end to the main roof plane? Is it the tile battens? (As they cross over towards the verge). My sheathing stops inside, perhaps this should connect (would be a job and a half toothing in).

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[Jimmy Mack]

Thundery showers have been threatening for the past couple of days so been going like the clappers to get a lid on the shop.

Insulation and membrane going in and on...200mm overlap, 150 is sufficient but having not quite enough with 1 roll, and having to buy two, there's plenty spare ( any tips for left over membrane use? [emoji3] )

Double checking my batten gauge, leaving off the first row of double battens for now, as I've the eaves protector to slip in.

Now time to hammer the knees and upper legs! Crawling over the roof, batterning! Using 2 gauges as spacers, the tile batts needed quite a bit of pulling about being quite hooked and bent.

Jim





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[ScotlandtheDave]

Great progress! You should be chuffed, workmanship looks great [emoji106]

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Great progress! You should be chuffed, workmanship looks great [emoji106]

Thanks Dave

 

[Jimmy Mack]

A question on building wrap...

After my Firecase my (copy&paste ) spec says to put a breather membrane on the outside walls.

As I have some left over....Can I use the same membrane I used on the roof? -or- am I suppose to use a specialist Bitumen paper?

This is what I used on the roof http://www.ikogroup.co.uk/Products/Pitched-Roof/Breathable-Membranes/IKO-Rubershield-ECO/

Perhaps a call to the manufacturer is best... :eusa-think:

Jim

 

[Mike G]

The same stuff on the walls is just fine.

In fact, if you look on the right hand side of the page you linked to, there is a BBA certificate for its use in external walls. BBA is the gold standard for building products. I guess they don't advertise it for that use so that they can sell an alternatively branded version.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Ha! ...What a plonker I is!...(right menu) 'BBA certificates: For use in timber frame construction'

Should of gone to Specsavers...

[emoji3]

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[Jimmy Mack]

Cracking on with the fireboard...a joyous product to work with...[emoji46] ...gables to fill in before membrane building wrap. Clear of doors as the stud work needs to be brought out to fix off the door frame stiles.

Jim

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[Jimmy Mack]

Firecased (horrid stuff) done TFFT! , just finished wrapping with membrane...through a soggy muggy day which makes everything slippy. Temporary lighting up inside. Cladding next week...time for a cool refreshment...I is well n truely smoked....

Cheers Jim

(stud locations marked in white)

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[Tusses]

looks like good progress !

 

[Rod]

Wow looks even bigger! [emoji846]

Rod

 

[ScotlandtheDave]

You are putting me to shame with your progress! Really neat work too. As Rod says its huuuge! Well deserved refreshment tonight [emoji482]

 

[RogerS]

That's huge! Great progress despite the humidity.

 

[Crispylettuce]

Huge progress for a huge shop! My proposed shed will fit in there three times.. which reminds me, I need to check with my project manager what is next on "the list"!

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[AndyP]

That's huge! Great progress despite the humidity.

Can't wait until he starts to build the runway

 

[9fingers]

The floor area of this shop must rival the huge place (/palace?) that Steve M documented over on UKW biggest thread ever - currently with 1985 contributions and 223773 views!

Bob

 

[AndyP]

Of course size doesn't matter, it is what you do with it that counts.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Thanks chaps...I think Steve trumps me slightly at 26x26ft, but he did have help!...We're 22x22 ft (ish). His and Mike's threads have been very useful.

We've had some VERY heavy rain over the past two days, all appears quite dry inside, however there are signs of slight water penetration at the wall plate in 2 points at the eaves on one pitch and 1 on the other. Perhaps it's got in where the nails fix the battens or from my initial track run of clouts. I've been up to try and scout out any problems, however Tracking water is a challenging task. I suspect it's piled up against the back of a batten, gone in through the fixing hole, down the side of the rafter and into the eaves, anywhere else would require working through the insulation.

Should I be concerned about this? Am I expecting too much performance from the membrane...It seems quite mild. After all there's still the tile layer to go on. Any thoughts?

Cheers Jim

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[Mike G]

Once membranes are pierced by fixings, they have to at least weep, if not leak. Don't worry. Once your roof is on your membrane becomes just a 2nd line of defence, and will be fine.

 

[Tusses]

the only thing I didn't think of with my roof is frost !
if the underside is not air tight, then frost can/will form on the underside .. then when it warms a bit in the day , it melts.

It gets me every winter :twisted: ..but I don't have a membrane .. .

It's a tin roof BTW ,, and on my list of jobs to do .. take it off .. fit membrane and put it back.

Apart from that , I am water tight all year round, whatever the heavens have in store

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Once membranes are pierced by fixings, they have to at least weep, if not leak. Don't worry. Once your roof is on your membrane becomes just a 2nd line of defence, and will be fine.

Thanks, nice to be reassured I'm not ignoring something that could be a serious goof down the line!

Tusses we have a tin/metal roof on part of the main house,which I'd like to replace... it's not in the best of shape, in fact it's awful :?


Something I have noticed... I've got ahead of myself, I need to fix up my DPC behind the Membrane ...D'oh!

With regards to the DPC, should I run it under the doors and still bed the doors in their mortar groove at the cill..(which seems a little pointless, having seen the mud cill/ sole plate slippage planes in action) -OR- is a better approach to trim the DPC at the Frame, maybe behind the membrane wrap, and park the door cills straight on the brick with mortar?

Jim

 

[Wizard9999]

Thanks chaps...I think Steve trumps me slightly at 26x26ft, but he did have help!...We're 22x22 ft (ish).

And Steve's did take about 20 times as long to build! Progress here is truly mind blowing :eusa-clap:

Terry.

 

[Mike G]

Jim, the DPC should be continuous. I know it feels pointless running it vertically down the opening for the door, under the threshold, and up the other side.......but them's the rules, and your BCO will want to see it.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Thanks chaps...I think Steve trumps me slightly at 26x26ft, but he did have help!...We're 22x22 ft (ish).

And Steve's did take about 20 times as long to build! Progress here is truly mind blowing :eusa-clap:

Terry.

Thanks Terry, it's the pressure of having to return to work in Aug ...

I do however feel absolutely trashed!...The Radox doesn't appear to working anymore, I'm thinking of pouring Castrol GTX into the bath!

After doing the roof batts I physically couldn't get off the couch from crouching all day (that's a tough trade to be in!)...My Bro helped me in with the big Firecase panels on Thursday...Dad's visiting this week - best go easy on him though - he's just clocked 80! :lol:

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Jim, the DPC should be continuous. I know it feels pointless running it vertically down the opening for the door, under the threshold, and up the other side.......but them's the rules, and your BCO will want to see it.

Oh right...will do... didn't realise it would be on the BCO's radar

 

[Jimmy Mack]

OK...this was a surprise...

Is it normal to see so much daylight (1-2mm) between the head and wall plate?!

I guess this might change when I lay 1.25 t of tiles on the roof.

I've folded back my DPC under the membrane, do you chaps think it's necessary to do anything about the (frog?) holes in the tops of the bricks? Bearing in mind my T&G cladding covers them by approx two courses...

In my haste to get the Firecase on...I missed insulating two corners, so had lots of fun stuffing little bits through a gap with a wedge and a hand saw... [CONFOUNDED FACE]

Jim

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[Mike G]

You shouldn't really have that gap at the head of the wall. Can't you just get a bigger hammer?

The plinth junction detail is important. With timber cladding, you have to assume that there will be water penetration, and that moisture will be running down the face of your membrane (I know that's a long way back in your case, but what have you got the membrane for if it isn't to protect against incoming moisture?). Well, what happens to it when it gets to the bottom? I always put an arris there, although I've also seen a sloped fillet of concrete or strong mortar, and the water should be guided off the membrane, down the arris, to the outer edge of the bricks. This can be done in lead, with a DPC, or with Synthaproof or similar. What you can't do is leave it as it is.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Mike, I don't think there is anything I can do about the gap, I'd not noticed it up till now...it's a bit of a concern TBH. There's no where to put a cramp across or swing a hammer, and a screw won't pull it together. It's seems to be at the sides, and not the gables, it's like it's sitting on the nails and the exit wound of the nail (spelch?) Thinking back I used ann-ring shanks with the framing nailer here, perhaps this was the problem.

Do you think a solution would be to slip plastic packers in every 150 to make up the space?




RE: fillet ...my gut was telling me I needed to do something, but I've reached that 'hump' stage of a project where it's very easy to get lazy as the enthusiasm drops a little. But you're right...I can't leave it... daft not to continue the drip off the membrane.

I have quite a bit of sticky back flash band, perhaps apply it behind the membrane and scoup to the front of the brick line?

Jim

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[Mike G]

Flash band would do fine, but don't let it sit horizontally anywhere. It needs to be at a good slope to get water to actively run off.

Don't worry about the gap structurally. If it is still there after you've applied the roof tiles, then spray some foam into it, or seal it with silicon. Where the structure needs to close the gap, it will, so your main job is sealing it against drafts, insects etc.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Thanks Mike, I've not used the flash band before, I actually bought it for an arty application...that never happened.

Will it be OK (slump?) If unsupported, or should I lay a timber support fillet behind?

Jim

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[Mike G]

It should be fully supported. Imagine what it will look like in 50 years if left unsupported. A piece of treated timber will be fine.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

PS. That's twice in recent days you've settled my nerves. It's very much appreciated. [emoji106]

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[Jimmy Mack]

Weather is atrocious this week, very unusual for tropical Yorkshire what's it like down south chaps?...I bet France is lovely

Ok...the flash band is pricy, so I'll save that for something else, possibly the window and door head drip detail.

Picked up some 3x1 tanalised carcassing, and ripped it into arrises

Stuck them to the plinth with builders adhesive

Supported my corners with some flash band

Two beads of builders silicon, DPC and some flash band to tidy up the ends

Hopefully the weather will improve for some cladding batts tomorrow

Fingers crossed

Jim

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