• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Jimmy Mack's 'Shop Build (photos & video)

PU advice...


I'd like to get some expanding foam in between my jambs, I don't mind it spilling out on the inside but I don't really want it all over the front edges and messing up my lovely....blue paint job.

Is there a way to control it a little, or perhaps a release agent I can wipe on the fronts of the jambs?

On timber PU glue-ups I'd normally use parcel tape as a block/ release, but it might leave a brown glue residue mess or lift the paint. I do have some wide, 75mm DPC tape, which is a little like electrical tape.

Would taping the front gap be a little ambitious, for the power of the PU expansion to be controlled? Will I get more control from a gun style adapter?

Thanks, Jim

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
Don't EVER us PU without a gun. Guns are brilliant. You can control the bead down to less than a couple of mm in width. Not only that, but you don't have to use the whole can in one go, as you do with those cans with a tube attached. The guns are only £12 to £15, and I wouldn't dream of being without.
 
Thanks Mike,

I've only, and ages ago, used a throw away can, and it was chaotic, with most of it going in the bin when it went off in the nozzle....

I'll have a look at a separate gun system when I pop to the tool store later, I take it there's some kind of gun wash, acetone thinner you can run through for clean up?

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
Mike, what is the secret to using a gun? I've bought, tried, thrown away two as they gum up, soon as look at them. Or do you religiously remove the gun, connect to a tin of cleaner at the ed of every day ?
 
All the gear and...

no idea... the didn't ask to see a licence

[emoji3]

dcd99cb565d9a256f330ce46c16909be.jpg


Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
RogerS":3krkgu68 said:
Mike, what is the secret to using a gun? I've bought, tried, thrown away two as they gum up, soon as look at them. Or do you religiously remove the gun, connect to a tin of cleaner at the ed of every day ?
Click to expand...

I only run cleaner through it if I am going to leave it for weeks or months untouched. Otherwise, all you have to do is scrape the little bit of dried foam off the tip (I use a blunt knife), give it a shake, and away you go. I've had the same gun for 10 years or more., and had it apart only once for a clean and service. If I store it without a can of foam attached (ie it's going to be a while until I use it again), then that's the only time I run thinner/ cleaner through it.
 
Mike G":pt8c6r25 said:
RogerS":pt8c6r25 said:
Mike, what is the secret to using a gun? I've bought, tried, thrown away two as they gum up, soon as look at them. Or do you religiously remove the gun, connect to a tin of cleaner at the ed of every day ?
Click to expand...

I only run cleaner through it if I am going to leave it for weeks or months untouched. Otherwise, all you have to do is scrape the little bit of dried foam off the tip (I use a blunt knife), give it a shake, and away you go. I've had the same gun for 10 years or more., and had it apart only once for a clean and service. If I store it without a can of foam attached (ie it's going to be a while until I use it again), then that's the only time I run thinner/ cleaner through it.
Click to expand...

Interesting...

I read the back of the can over lunch (as you do). And it pretty much says this, that you only have to clean the gun IF you remove it from the can...I must say I was sceptical when I read it, knowing what a goopy-goop PU can be and was considering running the cleaner between tasks/ days.

I'll leave it on the gun then. :)


Dave No Walnut Whips tilil Monday...I'm on dad duty. Soon tho :)
 
Some lead flashing, foaming ...and a mortice latch today (I'll snap that tomorrow)

d21ebc596c892da09c5f1bc18057ac9d.jpg


358fa1f302fe173e92242582afd3da88.jpg


The gun control was brilliant, nothing on me and most of it in the right places...almost felt a bit disappointed when I'd filled all my gaps!

A shot of the fine beading nozzle and a...walnut whip for Dave...

74d88fc4f18a627b108d1434377f598d.jpg


Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
It'll be well seasoned! Can't wait to see what this looks like going up. Whilst I mind Jimmy, did you post details of your door configuration/build? I think you mentioned it but haven't looked back. Seeing the results you've achieved there I'm thinking of doing the same and painting my doors a nice dark colour to contrast the timber. Any details or advice would be most welcome!
 
A progress shot before I get the paint out [emoji6]

805dbfd2318c83d6984a305d9850e179.jpg


Bit tricky getting the first ones in as the tongues of the top boards were a bit swollen...once I got into the pack, the fit got better.

Rod, well noted, a couple of sticker marks, perhaps they should really of been stacked face-to-face... I don't think the mill did this either...nothing the blue paint brush can't fix...(or the natural weathering [emoji118] this ).

Dave, I thought you were going for a ledge & braced door design?... any questions fire away. The doors meet on a rebate, so fitting and finding matching rebate hardware is a bit of a headache. Fitted Aqaumac 21 seals, for acoustic and thermal performance.

Cheers Terry, the shades help reduce the blinding [emoji41]

Jim

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
Hi Jimmy, I'm off for a few days to the west coast so will get in touch soon. I'm just interested in the construction and materials used - instead of cladding my door with larch I might go with another material and paint it a dark anthracite colour. If it means changing the L&B design I'm ok with that, it's really the last thing to resolve apart from electrics (so quite a big thing!)

Ps your cladding looks fantastic! Did I hear you say you were going to paint it too?
 
Thanks for the comments.

Finished, the frontage today, took ages, bit of a fiddle round the windows, originally I was going to put blue trim in the window reveals , but used some cedar off cuts instead. Lots of digging through the pack to pick the better boards and plenty of checking with the laser to keep things plumb and level, I won't be as fussy with the other sides, as they're mostly out of sight.


Hard to tell from the photo, but I do believe the cladding has softened the blue [emoji41]

de9919bbd9c764ffa4b38a2836159890.jpg
24c20264a15e541e8233f16e0d372007.jpg


Thanks for watching - Jim [emoji4]

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the comments.

The plan is to allow the Cedar to weather naturally, even though, I do like the look of it as it is. I do feel that if I apply a finish or some kind of UV block, I'll be having to top it up it every year or so. As Rod mentions it should go a lovely silver colour.

There's still a coat of Fire Retardant to apply to meet Part 'O' of Build Regs - this might affect the eventual look.


Halo Jones":2lgl163y said:
How did you end up doing the fixing?
Click to expand...
Just the one Stainless Steel Clip nail in on the tongue, 450mm C's. That way the fixings are concealed (except to the right of the windows where the back of the groove is trimmed to get the boards in, so a fix goes in at the face) .

Jim.
 
I was quite surprised when I googled WRC that you have to use SS nails as ordinary ones will get eaten by the wood - similar to oak.

Rod
 
I have to agree that the vertical cladding really looks good. It is a shame that the lovely smell of the cedar will not last forever.
 
Crispy- The pack is a mix of clear A (60% of pack) B...(30%) and B/B (10%) boards with machine marks (roller and tear out from feed/ handling gear).

Was lucky to pick up 3 matching LOTS at the ATS/ John Boddies liquidation auction (June 2015) for a reasonable price.

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
Cladding all week, all done, got a bit short at the end so had to scarf over-lay, join two off-cuts, every couple of boards down one of the sidings. My sides are 2.4m high, and the longest boards were 4m, which was a bit of a pain.

Here are some snaps...

Got a bit tight down here...


fde68e1755c0f9bd3e1cdcf528c03da4.jpg


Scarf...ends sealed with D4 PVA...

8751f4fa432a5c3553b9824b5608a6ce.jpg


Nearly all the boards needed tapping in...

40a45cd0fba3e582f3e1e9262782e7f0.jpg


Finished the corners today...

79fc880d39cf93a8410416122d2fb61c.jpg


Strips for grounding the corner caps, 10mm off cladding runs for expansion, the corner cap will cover this detail
1c894e85fb527815c304104b74530ede.jpg


Ripped some spare boards I'd put aside...Biscuit joined, PU, chamfer on joint, and arisses on outter corners eased with a block plane...

64f2dd7b32f1a0c0188e54849178420e.jpg


Very gentle clamping, the cedar is pretty soft.

This is how I measured and prevented nail gun teeth marks, this left the nails slightly proud so they could be finish tapped in by hand

8742bf2cc7ebce14a5c995996937847d.jpg


eb8154261e988958505e5bc61aa15fc3.jpg


A view from the back...
b2cfa4d2ba4de8cf4135a3a866e228e4.jpg


Barge boards, fascias, soffits and roof next... I'm going to work up some drawings (RE verge detailing) over the weekend to run by you chaps for comment, if that's OK.

Jim

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top