• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Jimmy Mack's 'Shop Build (photos & video)

Jimmy Mack":1lu5ncxx said:
........ if you ever need advice on inlaying a Banana Skin motif...I'm your man......
Click to expand...

:lol:

Funny you should mention it. I run into trouble almost every time I try to inlay a banana skin into a piece of furniture. :lol: :lol:
 
Groundworker gone on to another job JUST as the Powergrid contractor rocks up to run the new supply across highway and into house...getting ready for a first go on a borrowed kango to get through front of house to install cut out...a little different from the Dremmel!

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Oh the irony! Where we couldn't find hard ground (sandstone) for the foundation at the back...Clang!... the contractor gang found it almost instantly under the tarmac! So they only managed to get halfway across the road today.

Bit of a relief as I had to wrestle with the Kango in the Yorkshire rain. After plenty of puffing managed to hook up with the hole I dug in the inside, didn't help having to navigate round an old water pipe under the pavement. These breaker drills are heavy buggers when you're working against gravity! Next trick is working in a 125mm slow bend duct!



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'Break on through to the other side...'

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That's the original single phase coming in from the right hand side.Had to trim one of the floor joists to get in with the Kango. I've packed up the trimmed end with a brick.


Fortunately not had to reach for the Veritas power trowel [emoji12]

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3 phase now in.

Plenty of fun juggling all the various contractor teams :cry: Almost didn't get connected as the Connections Team expected the single ph supply to have been disconnected first and didn't have permission to disconnect / terminate the old supply - paperwork said 'Connection Only'. For a moment I thought I'd have to pay ££££'s for a disconnection and a re-visit from the Connection Team -OR- live with two meter'd supplys! Slight panic.

After some phone tennis...They reluctantly agreed to move the old supply to the side, even tho it might blow up in their faces - possibly... unlikely ? idk. Finally the energy supplier switched out the meters.



Single ph disconnection in 4 wks - they'll be digging up the pavement again :shock: ....Turns out it was the 7th job on the bounce the project manager had dropped a ball or two on :eusa-doh:


Then, we dug out the the strip foundation...



...after 30 dumper truck runs, 15m3 of concrete, and a biblical rain shower in the middle we finally have a strip poured. My mate was keen we put a membrane under the blinding layer.




Jim
 
Did you remember to get the building inspector in to look in the hole? And did you remember to put ducts in for services (if necessary)?
 
I sent some pics of the dig out to the BCO which he was happy with, he's coming to have a look at the concrete at some point this week. The services duct is going across the strip at the front. 450mm cover. Hope this is OK for the water as at this point it won't have the full 750 cover

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Possibly a daft question, but I'm wondering when I can get a floor in after the brick plinth, mainly so I have something to work off...is this doable prior to framing and the roof? Or will it involve assembling a complicated canopy for weather protection?

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Hey Jim, I've just browsed your thread and was pleasantly surprised with your beautiful work - stunning.

Good luck with your shop and welcome aboard. 8-)
 
Thanks Pinch, kind words from someone not so bad himself - beautiful work and cracking looking shop too. I'll be following the Art Deco bookcase :)

Many thanks,

Jim.
 
Jimmy Mack":3cq3u6wn said:
I sent some pics of the dig out to the BCO which he was happy with, he's coming to have a look at the concrete at some point this week. The services duct is going across the strip at the front. 450mm cover. Hope this is OK for the water as at this point it won't have the full 750 cover

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Click to expand...

Well, it's not ideal. In fact, the water company wouldn't connect you if that was a new property. However, as you are doing it yourself that isn't an issue.
 
Jimmy Mack":1rhl8yxo said:
......but I'm wondering when I can get a floor in after the brick plinth, mainly so I have something to work off...is this doable prior to framing and the roof? ........
Click to expand...

Perfectly do-able. You'll be using treated timber, and your flooring will be water-resistant. Just take care if it gets wet as some wooden surfaces get very slippery. Clearly you wouldn't want the floor exposed to the weather for months. If you have a bad forecast you could chuck some tarpaulins around. Direct sun is a much bigger hazard for timber than rain.
 
Wishful thinking that the blinding layer would be smooth enough to work on. I'll temporary fix a layer of 18mm OSB down on the joists and when we have cover lift to install the acoustic rock wool slabs before replacing OSB and a top skin of either ply or the Camber shield that's been raved about elsewhere.

I'm still mulling over having a 400mm removable service channel for cabling and an extraction duct :eusa-think:

Yesterday we hand balled and dragged in the Block & Bricks with the mini digger as access is too narrow for the Moffit fork lift. Here's a pic of the B&B in place and a packing layer of trimmed block going down (front of pic) as we were a bit out of level - partly due to the distraction of a torrential downpour :|



This morning I picked up the 'UGLIEST' (according to the yard staff) brick I could find. These are for the four courses at the front which will be on show as we want the cladding & brick to age and blend in with the garden. They've clearly been knocking about the yard a bit as they come with added mould and moss!




I have to admit I've never laid a brick in my life, perhaps time to start learning -OR- continue knocking the house about for the SWA cable run. Management not too happy about this, she's only just coming to terms with the state of the garden / bog / building site! I notice there's nothing mentioned in the other WIP's about Management, management with regards to making a mess !?

Here's a transition between two rooms, at different heights. I've decided to pack out/ box out the skirting so I can drop in the cable and make it look pretty later - Keeping it as simple as possible as I'm expecting it to be a pig to lay!



Mike I've been following your handy WIP as I go. I'm going to use the strap method you use as a cill/ wall plate hold down using GMS builders band / strip.

Back to cable runs...core drill time...
 
I'm planning on running some CAT6 cable along the same route...Any thoughts on shielding or interference? I'll try and keep them separate but at certain points they'll be quite close to each other (100mm)

Thanks Jim
 
Jim

I think you are heading into uncharted waters with the degree of knocking about to the house your workshop build requires, I certainly made sure I stayed outside. I actually showed SWMBO the hole for the vale coming not your house just to illustrate what a reasonable husband I am and try and restore some brownie point :lol:. But then if I recall correctly you are going to be sharing the finished space, so I would be majoring on "our workshop"!

Terry.
 
Jimmy Mack":27iun035 said:
I'm planning on running some CAT6 cable along the same route...Any thoughts on shielding or interference? I'll try and keep them separate but at certain points they'll be quite close to each other (100mm)

Thanks Jim
Click to expand...


I think there is a preference if not a mandated separation for telephone lines and power wiring and maybe something similar for water and gas from power.
In practise whilst you might be able to measure some slight speed degradation on Cat 6 in the presence of power line interference, you are not likely to notice the difference.
These days there is potentially more interference from BT lines before any ADSL filtering than power lines.
If you are proposing to use any motor drive inverters in your workshop to give speed control or braking on your machines, then you might need to install a mains filter at the workshop end if you experience serious losses on the CAT6 but I'd go ahead in the knowledge that the problems are low probability and can be fixed should they prove to be severe.

hth

Bob
 
It is good to see how fast things can move on when one puts their mind to it.

Never had a problem with the management here she has unerring faith in everything I do which is actually quite unsettling.
 
If you are going to put network cable in, please put 2 cables in, the extra cost is very small, but if the need for another cable came up the cost and disruption to get it in would be huge.
 
I know my electrical interests are a bit extreme but I have not regretted putting in an uncommitted 25 way cable when I built my shop.
It is only used for low voltages but there is alarm signalling, a warning in the house if the workshop door is unlocked. The front door bell extends down to the workshop, as well as a data network plus an intercom back to the house.
I've recent added a link from the workshop security light so that when I leave the workshop, the security light on the back of the house comes on to light my way up the garden path.
So far I've used about a third of the wires so plenty of scope for expansion.

As Dave says so easy to install now and almost prohibitively difficult later.

Bob
 
9fingers":s4n3upu8 said:
[


I think there is a preference if not a mandated separation for telephone lines and power wiring and maybe something similar for water and gas from power.
In practise whilst you might be able to measure some slight speed degradation on Cat 6 in the presence of power line interference, you are not likely to notice the difference.
These days there is potentially more interference from BT lines before any ADSL filtering than power lines.
If you are proposing to use any motor drive inverters in your workshop to give speed control or braking on your machines, then you might need to install a mains filter at the workshop end if you experience serious losses on the CAT6 but I'd go ahead in the knowledge that the problems are low probability and can be fixed should they prove to be severe.

hth

Bob
Click to expand...


Thanks Bob, that is reassuring to know...It's been tricky enough planning the 25mm SWA and 16mm earth route... the thought of doing a separate run for the data would of added a lot more work! Not sure if I'll be using any inverters as we're running 3 ph but I do like the idea of speed control, especially on a on a pillar drill.

Thanks DaveL I'm definately down with lots of runs...The more the merrier :eusa-dance:

I've planned to run 3 x Cat6. Like Bob says for the low voltage stuff like door bells, CCTV, intercom etc.

BOB - 25 way cable?...Didn't know such a thing existed...I'll look into it - Does it have a name? I'll certainly be leaving a bit of string in a duct.


Today was all about clutches! Very much appreciated. Here's the hole I drilled through to the garage...its 500mm! :o Had to buy another extension for the core drill! Bit of a racket with regards to the kits versus separates for core drill bits & accessories.



Mustn't forget the car clutch either... carting all the bricks across Yorkshire and up our take-your-time-or-lose-a-mirror- drive :D
 
Wizard9999":2o9pghyf said:
Jim

I think you are heading into uncharted waters with the degree of knocking about to the house your workshop build requires, I certainly made sure I stayed outside. I actually showed SWMBO the hole for the vale coming not your house just to illustrate what a reasonable husband I am and try and restore some brownie point :lol:. But then if I recall correctly you are going to be sharing the finished space, so I would be majoring on "our workshop"!

Terry.
Click to expand...


Terry - I'm still coming to terms with the 'sharing' bit...but I think the last laugh may be on me...I'll be out of the way, always accessible and in a known local location... it makes me think of that guy who has his train set under his house...especially his comments at 1m 05s to 1m 40s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-cVYFjYDtw
 
Jimmy Mack":30o0fevs said:
BOB - 25 way cable?...Didn't know such a thing existed...I'll look into it - Does it have a name? I'll certainly be leaving a bit of string in a duct.
Click to expand...


I used this stuff http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/pp00028 ... dp/2440072
as it was left over from a job and I'd had to buy a full reel
In practice anything would do. If you are buying cat6 by the kilometer then just lay all the spare into multiple redundant runs.

Bob
 
And although you are leaving a string as well - remember when you pull a cable through on it to include ANOTHER string for the next time you need it (DAMHIKT :oops: )

Steve
 
Ducting in for start of house run on fri

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A crude cable reeler set up this morning, gms strapping, some blocks and a length of old scaffold .

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I've been dreading this moment for weeks...25 m, a garage, three door jambs 4 rooms (two under the floor) of pulling and yanking!

A couple of hours later, buckets of sweat... it doesn't look like much but this photo is a euphoric moment! [emoji2] [emoji2] [emoji2]


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Rod nothing in particular, I tied a knot based on half hitches back on themselves (rolling half hitches?)...with knots captivated by ummmm....sellotape . Classy [emoji6]

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Well it worked - I also wrap the cable and rope at the very end with duct tape to form a torpedo shape to reduce drag and prevent the cable getting caught up on anything.
Probably overkill?

Rif
 
While I've been patching the house my brick layer has been making steady progress. There have been a couple of changes to the plinth design, my builder was keen to bring a dpm up the wall, effectively tanking the lower part of the build.

The periscopes weren't as long as expected so as to get them under the floor and insulation and me wanting to keep the floor low to ground level, they don't finish on the top course as planned.

My builder is keen to do some complicated notching of the blocks around the Periscopes as he feels if he leaves a space the wall and suspended floor will be weakened...this might be a question for Mike.

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That's the top course in on the right, before the timber frame.

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I think part of the problem we're having with the periscopes is they're designed (or at least these ones are) for a cavity wall.

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I'm looking at the brickwork tonight and I'm a little worried about the way my builder has chosen to run the membrane through the brickwork. My main concern is that the blockwork could pull away from the inner skin (as it's only stuck to the blocks to the side) when there is a load on the floor. But then will the bottom corners of the joists push out whilst under deflection? Could it all become a bit loose/wobbly?

I've put together a drawing to try to illustrate. What do people think?

 
Jimmy Mack":28ovpgwn said:
*CORRECTION*

The DPM comes out lower. There will of course be a DPC layer also.



Jim
Click to expand...

OK, that makes more sense, I couldn't reconcile the previous diagram with the pictures above. Not sure if it helps, but I have two double skin retaining walls on my workshop where the DPM comes up from under the slab and then laps on the top course of bricks with the DPC on top. This effectively tanks the walls. Was a bit concerned about effectively laying the blocks on top of the DPM, but all has been well and no issues a year plus on.

Terry.
 
If you're having a sleeper wall mid span how much deflection do you think you'll get? Remember weights downhill, personally I'd be more concerned that the DPM comes out of the brick work a little low re the ground level
 
Thanks Terry, apologies for the initial drawing error...perhaps a bit cross eyed from crimping plugs onto CAT cable late last night! Tricky little buggers for fat fingers!

Doug you're right... the deflection is going to be minimal with the sleeper wall and the weight will be down hill as you say... perhaps I'm over thinking it as I'm out of my comfort zone. I'll be putting in a DPC layer on top of the bricks / below the frame

Thinking on a fresh head today... if it were a cavity wall with the suspended floor & hangers above the DPC it would be a similar scenario to what we have.

We've had some poor weather over the last couple of day but looking forward to taking over from the guys and getting some timber in, hopefully next week. :)

Many thanks,

Jim
 
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