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Making an iron for a moulding plane

rxh

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The owner of this plane likes to collect Irish tools or tools with an Irish connection. It is marked “Booth – Dublin” but sadly it had no iron. It is quite a beast as the mouth opening is a little more than 2 5/8” wide (~67mm). I offered to make a new iron and this is how I did it.
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The boxing of the plane was loose and I secured it back in place using liquid hide glue.
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I cut a piece of 70mm x 4mm O1 steel to a suitable length then ground it to the required width, then shaped the upper end with hacksaw and file. I blackened the “cutting” end of the blank with a marker pen and secured it in the plane using the wedge, projecting about 5mm from the lowest part of the sole. Then I scribed a line, following the contour of the plane.
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Next, I repositioned the iron with almost no projection below the lowest part of the sole and scribed a second line.
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I removed as much as possible of the waste with a hacksaw.
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Then I filed to the second scribed line.
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This is how it now looked in position in the plane.
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Using files, I shaped the chamfer, taking care not to come quite to a sharp edge at this stage.
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I used a charcoal barbecue urged on with a hot air gun to raise the iron to red heat. When a magnet would no longer stick to it (i.e. the Curie point had been reached) I quenched it in cooking oil. Then, I cleaned it up and tempered it in the domestic oven at 200 deg. C for an hour.

The final shaping and sharpening operations were done with a Dremel tool, diamond needle files and oilstone slips.
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Here, the sharpened iron is in place in the plane.
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As I had no suitable wood of the right thickness to hand, I cramped three pieces of wood together in the vice in order to try cutting a moulding.
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The finished plane.
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Wow, what a tremendous job! Though I can't quite believe it's as easy as you make it sound.

And you really need an RXH maker's mark on the top of the iron, then it would be perfect...
 
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Wow, what a tremendous job! Though I can't quite believe it's as easy as you make it sound.

And you really need an RXH maker's mark on the top of the iron, then it would be perfect...
Thanks Andy - it was mainly a matter of careful filing and grinding.
 
Never thought a charcoal barbecue could be used as a forge.
Yes, it can work very well. The hot air gun really gets it going. I prefer to use real charcoal rather than the briquettes as I feel it burns hotter (I have no scientific evidence for this). Here is a photo of a small barbeque being used to heat treat drawknife irons.
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I've seen Pete Maddex do that, at Lurkers, IIRC. Or it might have been mine, I can't remember. He can be a bit of a fire demon when he has to be...
S
 
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I've seen Pete Maddex do that, at Lurkers, IIRC. Or it might have been mine, I can't remember. He can be a bit of a fire demon when he has to be...
S
Yeah you are correct, we used her majesty’s hair dryer* as a blower.

Done the same thing many times since, usually whilst she cooks the roast, so as to utilise the cooling oven to temper.

*was an old one…..I’m not that stupid!
 
As it looks like you've used ground flat stock, was the original iron flat rather than tapered, or did you need to adjust the wedge, or is the difference not enough to worry about ? Most of my molding planes (none as fancy as this) have an iron with a tapered tang, I assumed a cheaper grade steel with a bit of good stuff welded to the end ?

My friend Jim wrote an article for the Bodger's Gazette describing his "forge" using a wheel hub and a hot air paint stripper gun; it serves for air flow, and also is hot enough to light the charcoal ! IIRC it needs to be a good one to stand continuous running. He had it connected by a length of pipe into the wheel hub forge.

Concerning charcoal, in the forge at Wimpole they also used quite fine grade natural charcoal, which lights easily (too easily, watch the bag is out of range of sparks) and burns hot.

Edited to add: I dare not use the oven. I used it to make some drape formed clear acrylic trays as a liner for some wood corner shelves in the bathroom to avoid water damage to the wood. It took ages for the smell to dissipate. Now, we do have an oven at work intended for things like reflow soldering. The dial goes a lot hotter than 200C, looks perfect for this sort of job.
 
Yep a barbecue is the best thing for bigger blades, smaller stuff a MAPP torch works well.
If you are feeling brave you can also use a MAPP torch to temper heat away from the edge and watch the colours move towards the edge and quench when it is straw colour, but don't go too far or back to square one.

Pete
 
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As it looks like you've used ground flat stock, was the original iron flat rather than tapered, or did you need to adjust the wedge, or is the difference not enough to worry about ? Most of my molding planes (none as fancy as this) have an iron with a tapered tang, I assumed a cheaper grade steel with a bit of good stuff welded to the end ?

My friend Jim wrote an article for the Bodger's Gazette describing his "forge" using a wheel hub and a hot air paint stripper gun; it serves for air flow, and also is hot enough to light the charcoal ! IIRC it needs to be a good one to stand continuous running. He had it connected by a length of pipe into the wheel hub forge.

Concerning charcoal, in the forge at Wimpole they also used quite fine grade natural charcoal, which lights easily (too easily, watch the bag is out of range of sparks) and burns hot.

Edited to add: I dare not use the oven. I used it to make some drape formed clear acrylic trays as a liner for some wood corner shelves in the bathroom to avoid water damage to the wood. It took ages for the smell to dissipate. Now, we do have an oven at work intended for things like reflow soldering. The dial goes a lot hotter than 200C, looks perfect for this sort of job.
Yes, I used ground flat stock. I didn't need to make any adjustments to the wedge so I believe that the original iron was not tapered. I have not tried to make a tapered iron so far - the only way I have thought of would be to use a surface grinder machine (which I do not have).
 
How many hours do you reckon that took, RXH? It looks like a lot of work.
 
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How many hours do you reckon that took, RXH? It looks like a lot of work.
Mike, I didn't count the hours - it was gift and an interesting challenge. Maybe not as many as might be imagined - I work quite quickly with hacksaw and file :)
 
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