• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Porter 666 OAR Restoration

kirkpoore1

Old Oak
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O'Fallon, Illinois
I got other projects done, and with all the Covid-19 hooey going on it's good to have a project at home.

The C.O. Porter Machinery Company started in the late 19th century as C.O. & A.D. Porter. They made a wide variety of heavy industrial woodworking equipment, and lasted well into the 1980's before being finished off by a product liability lawsuit. Based on the surviving machines displayed on the Vintagemachinery.org website, their most popular products seem to have been jointer (i.e. planers), shapers (spindle molders), and overarm routers.

This particular machine is a Model 666. It was probably built between 1930 and 1960, most likely in the middle of that range. This is the sales photo:
666salespic.jpg
This machine is about as small an OAR as Porter (or most industrial manufacturers) made. It has a 15" throat and the vertical table travel is about 3" (the table lifts the work into the bit). It has a 3 hp 3ph motor, and the spindle runs about 20000 rpm. It has a 1/2" collet. The router is dirt simple. A foot pedal raises the table. The pedal and table can be adjusted to change the top and bottom of the lifting range, so that you can drop the table and machine a thicker piece of wood, for example. Aside from the table, only the motor, spindle, and belt move. It has a magnetic starter with a remote push button station mounted on the front of the table.

I don't know the history of the machine. I bought it from a machinist who lives near Bloomington IL. He used it to machine aluminum for some musical instruments. When I got it I knew the bearings were shot, but we checked and found that the old collet was also wallowed out and the bit was spinning nearly .01 out of round. He offered to just give me the machine. Instead, I hired him to put in new bearings and replace the collet. New, high speed bearing for this machine were Not Cheap. I wound up spending nearly $300 each for the bearings, $400 for machining and shipping the spindle, and another $100 for the belt. So I'm at about $1100, and I'm not done yet with the little stuff.

The plan on this machine is a "rattle can resto", meaning a general cleanup and paint job. I'm going to take some of the easy stuff off, clean as much as I can, repaint, and reassemble. The motor runs well and doesn't seem to need bearings yet. Table travel is as smooth as a baby's butt.

The router came to me in it's original blue-gray colors. There are various dings in the body filler on the main cast pedestal, so I figured I would fill them in. I got some bondo from a friend and filled up a number f the scratches in the surface, then sanded down the filler.

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I removed a few parts, including the table, the pin (for use with patterns), and the handwheel for setting the pedal travel.
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I sanded and brushed down the whole machine to remove dirt, and then started with a spray can of primer. I barely got started when the can of paint, admittedly over 5 years old, decided to clog up. That was it for tonight.
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Tomorrow I'll buy another can of primer and go at it again, following up with the outer coat of paint after the primer is dry.

Kirk
 
Hope you are going to do a Wallace on that hand wheel and make it improbably shiny :)

Surprised you are using spray cans on something that size. Knowing how much work you produce I'd have thought you would have a spray gun set up for all the finishing. A high build primer from a spray gun has to be easier than cans.
 
How is the high spindle speed achieved, I presume by a big pulley on the motor. Wadkin did it by using a frequency changer and the motor itself held the collet to run at 24k. Its quite intimidating hearing them wind up to full chat.
 
Robert":4e09apdf said:
Hope you are going to do a Wallace on that hand wheel and make it improbably shiny :)

Surprised you are using spray cans on something that size. Knowing how much work you produce I'd have thought you would have a spray gun set up for all the finishing. A high build primer from a spray gun has to be easier than cans.

Not improbably shiny. :)

Seriously, though, y'all have been spoiled by the awesomeness of Wallace's restorations. This is very much a get-this-looking-decent-and-bring-it-on-line effort. For example, I'm not going to take apart the pedal assembly or even do very much to the depth stop mechanism. The former is pinned together, the latter's nut holding it in place is rusted solid. Both work very well as they sit and they are very unlikely to go bad--so in these cases, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Wallace":4e09apdf said:
How is the high spindle speed achieved, I presume by a big pulley on the motor. Wadkin did it by using a frequency changer and the motor itself held the collet to run at 24k. Its quite intimidating hearing them wind up to full chat.
Yes, there is a big pulley on the motor. I just went out and measured. The motor pulley is 12" diameter, and the spindle pulley is 1-7/8". So actual spindle speed will be 3450*12/1.875 = 22,080 (without slippage). That is actually faster than I would like for some larger router bits. In those cases, I will have to get a VFD to slow the motor down, or do that kind of work on my shaper.

Kirk
 
My sums suggest a belt speed of almost 11000 feet per minute which alarms me a bit.
On our side of the pond this equates to 56m/s
Online speed guides for standard belts suggest 35-50 m/s but still alarming to me.
With such a rigid machine hopefully the vibration will be minimal

I hope there is a good guard!

Bob
 
Primed and the first coat of paint done. It's pretty cold here for March (40F/8C) and my garage isn't heated normally, so this will take a couple of days to dry even with a space heater and a halogen work light pointed at the casting.
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Kirk
 
9fingers":22li17vt said:
My sums suggest a belt speed of almost 11000 feet per minute which alarms me a bit.
On our side of the pond this equates to 56m/s
Online speed guides for standard belts suggest 35-50 m/s but still alarming to me.
With such a rigid machine hopefully the vibration will be minimal

I hope there is a good guard!

Bob

Bob, yes, I get 123 mph on that belt. In fact, the guard is built so that the entrained air around the belt is grabbed by an internal scoop and directed down to blow dust off of the table. I don't know how well this works, but I did clean it all up. :) It also means the belt has to be fairly tight so it doesn't scrape on the scoop.

The collet holder has been ground in place with the bearing to be accurate to .0005 inches. This should minimize the vibration. The motor itself ran almost silently with pulley but no belt, so I think that is well balanced.

Shoot, I forgot to paint the motor bracket. Maybe tomorrow night...

Kirk
 
Spindle and motor remounted. Tomorrow, moving it into the shop, then adding the electricals and testing it.

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The belt holds the motor against a spring in the motor mount, which keeps tension up.

Kirk
 
Much progress in the last few days, but alas, it's not there yet.

Saturday morning my son and I got router up on skids by alternately levering each side and adding cribbing.
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I bolted the 2x8's to the base to keep them in place, then levered the router around to face the right direction.


Then I used my johnson bar
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to lever up one end and my son started putting pipes under it for rollers:

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The supervisor approved, other than thinking we were going too slow.

Rolling forward and moving pipes finally got us into position.
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At this point I hooked up the motor and tested. Of course, the spindle was spinning the wrong way (as it almost always is when you first hook up a 3ph motor). After fixing that, I ran it longer and found that the belt wasn't tracking--it wanted to run off the front pulley and was rubbing on the side casting.
rub_point.jpg

Working on suggestions from guys on the OWWM list, I finally found out it was because the spindle was worn slightly concave. (And by slight I mean .002-.004".) The "inverse crown" makes the belt want to track to the top or bottom, rather than in the middle. I temporarily put electrical tape on the spindle to form a slight crown, and it tracked fine:
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Here's a quick video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLxX4hL4vCs&feature=youtu.be

The problem is that the electrical tape won't hold up--after a minute or two it was already wearing and the tip was coming off.

So tonight I ran the COVID blockade (we're supposed to be on lockdown, but nothing like France) and dropped the spindle nose at a friend's house to be machined. I'll show you pictures when I get back. I'm so glad I didn't have to pull the spindle, because I was afraid I'd screw up the bearings.

Kirk
 

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Very nice Kirk. It doesn't sound overly loud. The wadkin one is like a jet engine
 
wallace":23wm4czn said:
Very nice Kirk. It doesn't sound overly loud. The wadkin one is like a jet engine

I'm sure it will be louder with the belt guard on. Even with this I'll be wearing ear muffs over ear plugs.

Kirk
 
Update:

I had a good conversation on Thursday with a guy who has rebuilt hundreds of OARs as part of his machinery business (though not many anymore, since these have been replaced by CNC routers). He told me that I'm using the wrong belt and that is almost certainly the problem. He ordered the correct belt for me, and I should have it in a week or so. I got the spindle nose back from my friend's before he spent any time on the repair.

So we shall see soon.

Kirk
 
OK, it's done!

I got the new belt today and put it on the machine. All tracking was adjustable simply with tension, and first I had it too loose (tracking at the bottom) and then too tight (tracking at the top). Finally, like Goldilocks I found the space in the middle was Just Right.

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I next clamped a fence to the table and took a few cuts. This cut is a 1/2" wide channel 3/4" deep into sycamore.
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The OAR cuts were like butter. Smooth, good surface, fairly easy to control. And it made a lot of dust. Time for another dust port.

Here it is with the belt guards on. I don't need to give it a chance to slap my face off. :)
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Kirk
 
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