I agree with Steve, even before there seemed little to complain about. I hope. he will not object to the noise of the camvac.
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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Return of the shed thread (a little more progress)
- Thread starter Wizard9999
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Andyp":2d0110dh said:
I know the camvacs have their followers but they are noisy blighters
Bob
DaveL
Old Oak
Or you are going to make steel drums in there. :twisted:Rob":3782z5qy said:brilliant Terry...nice neat job that.
Can I be there to watch your neighbours face when you tell him the workshop will be used to repair pneumatic drills
:text-+1:StevieB":1b3dxizy said:
Plus he has a sh!tty garden anyway… :twisted:
saying that, so do you with your drainage issues… :eusa-whistle:
Cheers
Mark
Wizard9999
Old Oak
OK, mixed emotions in the workshop today. Huge excitement that the electrician had finished connecting up the workshop and had signed off my work. But then the lights didn't all seem to be working. Long story short they seem to be cheap Chiwanese rubbish as a bit of tapping and general abuse seems to have them all working, but I would not recommend them to anyone, well not anyone I like any way.
Problem now is the tablesaw. As soon as I turn it on the MCB trips. Now, I had asked for type C MCBs on the two 16amp sockets and he has fitted type B, so I have already emailed him to say these need to be changed in line with what I asked for.
However, I know he is at Ascot tomorrow and therefore I'm unlikely to see him until Friday. I would lke to see if this is the issue or if there is a different issue. So, I was wonder if there is any issue with swapping the 32amp MCB from the ring man over to the tablesaw space in the consumer unit? The wiring should be fine as it is 2.5mm2, but could I end up killing the tablesaw? The saw is the old style Xcalibur and when I bought the saw (second hand) it had a 32amp plug on it, but I know that does not mean that the MCB being used was necessarily 32amp (indeed the seller told me it had a 16amp plug on it, so he may not even have realised).
Do I need to be patient and wait for the electrician to return or can I try it with the 32amp MCB?
As ever, thanks,
Terry.
Problem now is the tablesaw. As soon as I turn it on the MCB trips. Now, I had asked for type C MCBs on the two 16amp sockets and he has fitted type B, so I have already emailed him to say these need to be changed in line with what I asked for.
However, I know he is at Ascot tomorrow and therefore I'm unlikely to see him until Friday. I would lke to see if this is the issue or if there is a different issue. So, I was wonder if there is any issue with swapping the 32amp MCB from the ring man over to the tablesaw space in the consumer unit? The wiring should be fine as it is 2.5mm2, but could I end up killing the tablesaw? The saw is the old style Xcalibur and when I bought the saw (second hand) it had a 32amp plug on it, but I know that does not mean that the MCB being used was necessarily 32amp (indeed the seller told me it had a 16amp plug on it, so he may not even have realised).
Do I need to be patient and wait for the electrician to return or can I try it with the 32amp MCB?
As ever, thanks,
Terry.
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MCBs/fuses are there to protect the down stream installation NOT the load. In the case of your saw the thermal overload relay in the starter will protect the motor
So if the wire to the TS can take 32 amps (bound to!) then you can try the 32a mcb.
But If I were a sparky returning to a job where the customer had complained about some issues, I'd not be amused to find that he had been changing things. If I were feeling bloody minded, I'd insist on and charge for a retest for my warranty to be valid.
Turning back to be on your side, why on earth did you let him leave with the wrong breakers fitted?? I hope you have not paid him in full yet.
If you are itching to test, just direct wire the saw to the back of one of the 13amp sockets WITH THE POWER OFF. Cover your tracks when you are done.
Bob
So if the wire to the TS can take 32 amps (bound to!) then you can try the 32a mcb.
But If I were a sparky returning to a job where the customer had complained about some issues, I'd not be amused to find that he had been changing things. If I were feeling bloody minded, I'd insist on and charge for a retest for my warranty to be valid.
Turning back to be on your side, why on earth did you let him leave with the wrong breakers fitted?? I hope you have not paid him in full yet.
If you are itching to test, just direct wire the saw to the back of one of the 13amp sockets WITH THE POWER OFF. Cover your tracks when you are done.
Bob
Wizard9999
Old Oak
Bob
Electrician left while I was trying to deal with a visitor as SWMBO had a migraine. To be honest I doubt I would have checked the MCBs were the ones we agreed to install even if that was not the case, I have this old fashioned idea of relying on people to do what has been agreed they will do.
Looks like I have to be in London tomorrow now, so little difference between getting him back Friday and messing around with it myself.
And no I have not paid yet.
Terry.
Electrician left while I was trying to deal with a visitor as SWMBO had a migraine. To be honest I doubt I would have checked the MCBs were the ones we agreed to install even if that was not the case, I have this old fashioned idea of relying on people to do what has been agreed they will do.
Looks like I have to be in London tomorrow now, so little difference between getting him back Friday and messing around with it myself.
And no I have not paid yet.
Terry.
Woodbloke
Sequoia
Not so. A mistruth and a misconception. If you run a pair of pipes from the top of the output ports to somewhere out the way, or even better, somewhere outside, the racket is drastically reduced. It's a Camvac recommended mod btw - Rob9fingers":2a1ex7er said:
Yes I was guilty of stirring it a bit there. I have heard Rob's Camvac with the added pipes mod and it helps a LOT. Mine is in the loft above the workshop and too far away to have any affect of the neighbours.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
Type C MCBs put in this morning, jobs a good 'un! Very happy.
Terry.
Terry.
:text-bravo:
Any thoughts yet on what will be the first project?
Any thoughts yet on what will be the first project?
Wizard9999
Old Oak
Woodbloke":2uj8arzs said:
Yes, fairly sure I have seen this demonstrated on a video on YouTube. One question though. If I am wearing ear protection the main thing will be not upsetting the neighbours too much, if the pipes end up outside will that not just be transferring noise from inside to outside, thereby potentially being more annoying for the neighbours? Not saying I wouldn't do it anyway of course.
Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
Andyp":3qiqhlto said:
Yes, workshop fittings! Actually started to make my router table fence yesterday evening as I have ordered one of the Incra insert plates from Woodworkersworkshop. I have so much to learn I think making a few things that only I will see how bad they are is a good idea :lol: .
Terry.
Don't forget the photos then.
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Another point about external exhaust in the winter months. If you are heating your shop a) some of the heat will be vacuumed out and b) so as not to reduce the suck, in theory you will need a door or window ajar which will suck in cold air.
Ok that is 2 points :lol:
Bob
Ok that is 2 points :lol:
Bob
Wizard9999
Old Oak
Well, extraction has taken a back seat for now, afraid I'm not very good at staying focused at the moment, but there has been progress. This is what you need Andy...
I bought a Record Power BS400 at the D&M tool show last October - cracking deal meant I got it for pennies more than the BS350 would have been at any other time. It has been marking time still in the box and on the pallet in my car port, with me fretting about rust but not wanting to open it. Well the time finally came, so with the help of an escapee from the local asylum it was unwrapped and the best way of moving it determined to be to 'walk' it whilst it was still on the pallet. It just fitted through the back opening of the car port, saving us the journey the table saw had to take.
OK, OK that's Rob not a resident of Broadmoor, though from this picture it isn't immediately apparent. Then it was on with the walking to the workshop.
First thing was to take the the pallet off the bottom and to add the wheel kit for instant manoeuvrability. Past experience had taught Rob this was a lot easier than loading it down with the extra weight of the table before trying to put the wheels on. Then school sports day beckoned so it was tools down.
The next day SWMBO helped me put the table on. This was a complete PITA and I have no idea how anyone could do this on their own. My only complaint so far is that I was a bolt short for attaching the table to the trunion. I have yet to check everything is square, but I actually sat down and invested an hour in watching the Alan Holthum DVD that comes with it and I have to say as a novice bandsaw owner found it pretty helpful. Best of all, no sign of anything unpleasant arising from seven months in the box in my car port. Looks pretty good in there, even if I say so myself.
Today I had a look at the router plate and router combo for the table Bob kindly gave me. The plate has these bits'n'bobs with it.
I have worked out what most of these are for as follows:
Bottom - pin thingy, whatever its called
Far left - various Allen keys
Next from left - cam screw to lock plate into table
Next from left - screws I used instead of ones in router holding base on, they are longer, so seem better suited to holding the router to the thicker router plate (does this sound right?)
Right - ten adjuster thingies to get plate level with table (hardly needed due to Bob's prior precision :eusa-clap: )
Top - completely baffled what these are for, I wonder if maybe they are for fitting to different routers, but other than that I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
Hopefully nothing critical as I have it in, but then again it will all have to come apart again so I can drill the hole for the above table adjustment. But before that I need a metal drill of the right size.
Terry.
I bought a Record Power BS400 at the D&M tool show last October - cracking deal meant I got it for pennies more than the BS350 would have been at any other time. It has been marking time still in the box and on the pallet in my car port, with me fretting about rust but not wanting to open it. Well the time finally came, so with the help of an escapee from the local asylum it was unwrapped and the best way of moving it determined to be to 'walk' it whilst it was still on the pallet. It just fitted through the back opening of the car port, saving us the journey the table saw had to take.
OK, OK that's Rob not a resident of Broadmoor, though from this picture it isn't immediately apparent. Then it was on with the walking to the workshop.
First thing was to take the the pallet off the bottom and to add the wheel kit for instant manoeuvrability. Past experience had taught Rob this was a lot easier than loading it down with the extra weight of the table before trying to put the wheels on. Then school sports day beckoned so it was tools down.
The next day SWMBO helped me put the table on. This was a complete PITA and I have no idea how anyone could do this on their own. My only complaint so far is that I was a bolt short for attaching the table to the trunion. I have yet to check everything is square, but I actually sat down and invested an hour in watching the Alan Holthum DVD that comes with it and I have to say as a novice bandsaw owner found it pretty helpful. Best of all, no sign of anything unpleasant arising from seven months in the box in my car port. Looks pretty good in there, even if I say so myself.
Today I had a look at the router plate and router combo for the table Bob kindly gave me. The plate has these bits'n'bobs with it.
I have worked out what most of these are for as follows:
Bottom - pin thingy, whatever its called
Far left - various Allen keys
Next from left - cam screw to lock plate into table
Next from left - screws I used instead of ones in router holding base on, they are longer, so seem better suited to holding the router to the thicker router plate (does this sound right?)
Right - ten adjuster thingies to get plate level with table (hardly needed due to Bob's prior precision :eusa-clap: )
Top - completely baffled what these are for, I wonder if maybe they are for fitting to different routers, but other than that I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
Hopefully nothing critical as I have it in, but then again it will all have to come apart again so I can drill the hole for the above table adjustment. But before that I need a metal drill of the right size.
Terry.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Damn, that's a nice machine. My BS 350 seized a bearing today, and is just always struggling with the bigger stuff. I wish i had bought something a little more beefy. If yours should happen to go missing one day, you'll know where to look .
.Wizard9999
Old Oak
There, there Rob, the nice nurse is coming with your pills now...
Mike
It really was a blinding deal, I had always intended to go for the 350. I know a lot of people have spoken of getting £100 off at one of the various shows, but I got £200 off taking it down to £799, and then they threw in a free jockey wheel kit (usually £60) and free delivery (also usually £60). So Looking at the record site I actually got it for less than you would pay on the website for a 350 with wheel kit delivered. Now I know there was also a discount at the show on the 350, but that was only £100.
The Record Power MD even gave me his mobile number so I could go away and think about it, given I was intending to buy the 350 and said as long as I called before the end of the show on the Sunday I could have it at that price, rather than me having to go back in person (even though it was only supposed to be for people buying and paying at the show). Service like that is not that common these days.
Terry.
Mike
It really was a blinding deal, I had always intended to go for the 350. I know a lot of people have spoken of getting £100 off at one of the various shows, but I got £200 off taking it down to £799, and then they threw in a free jockey wheel kit (usually £60) and free delivery (also usually £60). So Looking at the record site I actually got it for less than you would pay on the website for a 350 with wheel kit delivered. Now I know there was also a discount at the show on the 350, but that was only £100.
The Record Power MD even gave me his mobile number so I could go away and think about it, given I was intending to buy the 350 and said as long as I called before the end of the show on the Sunday I could have it at that price, rather than me having to go back in person (even though it was only supposed to be for people buying and paying at the show). Service like that is not that common these days.
Terry.
Terry,
Sorry to post on an old thread. But i'm right at the point of building doors for my new workshop/shed and my current solution is exactly what you built. 11mm OSB skinned to a 4x2 frame with insulation in the middle. Can I ask you a couple of questions.
1. Were the doors hideously heavy or did you find them manageable to handle and hang?
2. You've got them on t-hinges, has this worked out ok?
3. Have they maintained their shape, or have then dropped at all? I'm thinking about an internal diagonal brace also.
Thanks
Fitz.
Sorry to post on an old thread. But i'm right at the point of building doors for my new workshop/shed and my current solution is exactly what you built. 11mm OSB skinned to a 4x2 frame with insulation in the middle. Can I ask you a couple of questions.
1. Were the doors hideously heavy or did you find them manageable to handle and hang?
2. You've got them on t-hinges, has this worked out ok?
3. Have they maintained their shape, or have then dropped at all? I'm thinking about an internal diagonal brace also.
Thanks
Fitz.