• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Small workshop

Thanks Dave that is a good idea. my problem is positioning the joist and holding it in place bricks and offcuts have helped resolve the issue.
 
Michael, I found that cutting a short length of joist, about 6" and used that as a template to position and fix the joist hangers in, and only put the joists in after you have each pair of hangers fixed.

That assumes that all your joists are the same depth and thickness of your cut off piece.
 
Thanks Malcolm I got an early start this morning trying to get ahead of the rain / sleet forecast for this afternoon.
I am really pleased with the result.

2019-01-27_11-37-37 by my0771, on Flickr

I made some 50x20mm tabs to fix to the underside of the joists to support the insulation i intend to fill the whole joist space.

Does a floor of this size require noggins if so how far apart.
 
Looking good.

I think noggins will help stiffen up the structure and add additional support for screwing the flooring to.

I remember when mine got to this stage. It felt really good that a non builder had got this far already.

You should be pleased.
 
The equivalent in a floor of noggins (which occur in walls) is "solid blocking". Yes, you should do it, at mid span. The principle is to draw a line across the middle of each joist (or ping one with a chalk line), then alternate your blocking one to the left of the line, one to the right, and so on. This always gives you access for straightforward nailing or screwing into the end of each piece, rather than having to skew nail or screw. It really stiffens a floor up, so is well worth the effort.
 
I can do that when the rain / sleet stops hopefully tomorrow I take it the first and last ones will be on hangers.
If using nails what size would be appropriate ?
Thanks
 
Thinking about the floor the joists start 450mm in from the centre of the soleplate and the floor will sit on top of the joists but what will support the edge of the floor along the inside of the soleplate.
 
MY63":37w1xhxe said:
Thinking about the floor the joists start 450mm in from the centre of the soleplate and the floor will sit on top of the joists but what will support the edge of the floor along the inside of the soleplate.
Click to expand...

Michael, You obviously know what you are asking but it would be so much easier if you included some diagrams to help those of us whose crystal balls have cataracts.
:lol:

Bob
 
Sorry Bob you are right I will post something in the morning.
I will be building the wall up from the sole plate but I don’t have anything for the edge of the floor to attach to. I think I need to add two more joists to support the end of whatever flooring I put down.
 
Yep, you're missing joists at the ends. These should be spaced just off the sole plate.
 
Mike G":3jfoip42 said:
Yep, you're missing joists at the ends. These should be spaced just off the sole plate.
Click to expand...

Mike may have captured your question here or maybe you were asking about support to the floor edge parallel to the sole plate and at right angles to your joists?
Options vary from
a) just leave it as there might not be much load right at the edge
b) run the flooring out and over the (lower) sole plate to be sandwiched by the bottom of the walls - might need to nibble round your vents?
c) add some battens onto the inside vertical face between each joist for the floor to bear onto
d) something else I've not covered above

Bob
 
Thank you Mike and Bob
Extending the floor is a really good idea.
I had an early start this morning trying to do some leather work before it was light. As soon as it got light I was out cutting the missing joists and their additional timbers which I screwed in place before fixing the joists in place.

2019-01-28_11-48-03 by my0771, on Flickr

I have started adding the blocking timbers as you can see I am pleased to say the temperature has now risen above 0 degrees.
 
Extending the floor is a good idea until you need to lift it..... I would advise battens or noggins between the joists just inside the sole plate to be honest - could save you lots of hassle later.
 
MY63":gl6kgpmo said:
.......my0771, on Flickr

I have started adding the blocking timbers as you can see I am pleased to say the temperature has now risen above 0 degrees.
Click to expand...

It's looking like a building now Michael. Excellent.

You seem to have your blocking off centre. It's not important at all, but is there a reason for that?
 
Mike I am not sure how that happened but there was this strange bright light thing shining this morning my neighbour said it is called the "SUN" not something we see very often here.
I think I marked it out and placed the first one on the wrong side of the outer line.
Today I have been plagued by 50mm actually being 45mm which caught me out a few times :) but have been a little more positive.
I marked out one chord (correct term) as a master and transferred marks to the rest for the long and short sides.

After drilling pilot holes I was able to assemble a long side.

2019-01-28_06-15-01 by my0771, on Flickr

I need to assemble the other side which has a window which I have ready as per other builds I am going to use 150mm x 50mm as the frame.
I need to know how tight the frame should be should there be a gap all around or should the frame be tight to the edges of the window.
Thanks
 
If you've already got the window, you should add 10mm (=5mm all round) to its length and height to give you your structural opening. Don't forget your cripple studs supporting the lintels over the window and door, and frankly, 95mm is usually enough for the lintel depths. How wide are your window and door openings?
 
The window is 870mm x 1050mm it is a standard double glazed unit.
I put 750mm per door for the double doors but that is not fixed as I may be making the doors myself but I would like them as large as possible.
 
If you are putting in a lightweight roof then you really only need 95mm lintels over the window. The door......well, you could get away with 95mm, but 145 would be preferable.

Assuming those window dimensions are to the outside of the frame, then your structural opening should be 880 by 1060 or bigger.
 
I have already bought 145mm doubles for both door and window. :)
I am unsure what you mean by lightweight I am shamelessly appropriating your roof design :)
 
Flat (mono-pitch), or pitched? Not that it matters for your lintels (145s will be fine for whatever you use on the roof).....I'm just curious.
 
Thanks Bob EDPM is not quite as expensive as I thought so I guess it is the best option I don’t want anything that is too complicated that is for sure :D when I make or restore briefcases I glue suede linings to the leather using either a latex glue or contact adhesive and it is usually a nightmare to get right.
 
MY63":fvzuy75i said:
Thanks Bob EDPM is not quite as expensive as I thought so I guess it is the best option I don’t want anything that is too complicated that is for sure :D when I make or restore briefcases I glue suede linings to the leather using either a latex glue or contact adhesive and it is usually a nightmare to get right.
Click to expand...

The adhesives are similar but the main area uses latex type adhesive on the decking - use disposable roller
and contact adhesive for the edges and fiddly bits.
Rather than the expensive custom designed edge sections you can usually find some upvc sections to do a similar job.

There are a number of youtube videos showing in detail how to do shed rooves with EPDM

Worst job is getting a roll of the stuff up on the roof to start with. It is chuffing heavy stuff. Get a mate in to help.

Bob
 
I redid my Dad’s shed roof for him in the summer. Never used EPDM but as you say lots of videos and it was really straightforward and easy. It was heavy to get up but other than that easy one man job. I also used disposable rollers, the contact adhesive that came with the EPDM ate through the foam rollers I had so make sure you have a few. Think I used 3 on not a very large shed.
 
I think EDPM maybe the way to go is there a particularly good brand or supplier that anyone can recommend.
It has rained all day today and although the national weather forecast says snow in the North clearly they mean Birmingham or Manchester because the local forecast for North of the Tyne where I am says cold but bright an overnight low of minus 5. I mentioned this to a friend in Canada and he has a daytime low of minus 21 he says the good thing is it is too cold to snow :D
Hopefully I will make progress tomorrow on the window wall followed by the end walls.
 
MY63":gfsfnf3f said:
....
It has rained all day today and although the national weather forecast says snow in the North clearly they mean Birmingham or Manchester ...
Click to expand...

You got that right, Michael. Birmingham = Midlands. Manchester = North Midlands. :lol:

The snowline here (50 miles due East of you) is around 650 ft and above. We were just on the edge but RAFSpadeadam up the road got so much snow that DNV thought they'd have to abandon the place for the day.
 
RogerS":10jonvuf said:
You got that right, Michael. Birmingham = Midlands. Manchester = North Midlands. :lol:
Click to expand...

Bloody Northern immigrant coming up here and trying to redefine boundaries! Manchester is The North. Up where you are is ‘beyond the wall’! [emoji6]
 
I don't care where I am all I can tell you is it is really cold out there my wood pile is completely frozen nothing a gentle tap from a large hammer cant sort. On the bright side there is no mud the ground is frozen solid :D
I am pretty sure my chop saw will cut frozen timber but I will wait until it warms up a little before starting today.
I am going to make the outer window frame first Mike called it a structural opening I made an attempt at drawing it but as you will see the right side did not quite match to the stud.

2019-01-30_09-50-41 by my0771, on Flickr

My ne plan is to make it put it in place and place the studs in position then make the headers then whatever is needed to fix everything together.
 
Morning, Michael.

Some so and so sent that white stuff down here to the SW. You wait till I found out who it was! Probably one of them northerners from Birmingham!

The drawing sort of looks OK to me, but what is that you have between the double header and the roof plate?
 
Michael, those cripple studs which support the lintel should be continuous to the sole plate. If you sit them on top of the window cill as you've shown, the theory is that when the cill shrinks the lintel won't be supported and will sag. The window cill doesn't need supporting at the ends as it isn't load bearing, so you can just tosh nail that into the cripple studs. Ideally, your cripple studs will be hard up against a full stud, but if they aren't, then put in 2 or 3 short noggins/ packers to resist any bowing.
 
Don't blame me Malcolm I did not send the snow your way :D the drawing shows a small gap above the headers which I want to get rid of so I will move the headers up slightly.

Mike I am a little confused
I take it I have called the lintels headers.
There is a full length stud on the left then a cripple stud which I have labelled header cripple then the window opening timber.
Under the window opening I have added an extra stud labelled cripple stud.

I am going to go and make the window opening now and will take pictures before screwing things together.
 
Sorry Michael, you're right. I was misunderstanding your diagram, and seeing your cripple as a gap. Carry on.......never mind me!

And yes, it's a lintel over an opening. A header is a brick laid short end on.
 
Thanks Mike
This picture is from the top down I have two scraps of 150mm x 50mm standing in as lintels above the window opening as I did not want to cut them until I had fixed the studs in place.
Rather than have a gap as per the drawing I have moved the lintels up so they are right under the first upper wall plate.
I take it they is no issue fastening these pieces together.

2019-01-30_01-26-08 by my0771, on Flickr

I have built this wall on top of the other wall to help ensure there are identical. other than the window of course.
 
Why have you framed the window at the top? Are you trying to lower it?
 
Yeah, that's the normal way.

Here's mine: CfIyaYa.png

The cripples form the sides of the opening and the lintel forms the head.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top