V & A coffee table Finished!

[9fingers]

I tend to glue one or two joints at a time max and clamp alternate sides with at least one clamp in line with each biscuit or at least 3 clamps and always an odd number.
Generous glue and not so tight as to squeeze it all out but instead tight enough to keep it flat but that is just generic glue up principles nowt to do with biscuits per se

HTH
Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

When it comes to do the actual table glue up should I joint the first two boards on their own or joint all the boards in one go?

I tend to glue one or two joints at a time max and clamp alternate sides with at least one clamp in line with each biscuit or at least 3 clamps and always an odd number.

Bob

Wot Bob said. Sometimes you'll need to do a glue up in one 'hit' but always best whenever possible to break it down into smaller, more easily managed ops - Rob

 

[AndyP]

I started cutting and sticking bits of oak together yesterday. Not the biscuited top yet just the smaller boards needed for the two V&A ends. Which I decided just to butt joint.

Thinking out loud for a moment. I am still undecided on how to fashion a bottom rail.
Remember this mockup which shows a long dowel?


Supposing I were to acquire a suitable length of walnut dowel of a maximum diameter no greater than the cross piece of the A. How could I make a straight shouldered tenon on the end? I have looked at the various tenon cutters and they all appear to cut sloping shoulders. Like these veritas ones

At about 80cm in length it would be too long to do on my lathe.

 

[9fingers]

Domestic management and I were only talking about you and the table over a pub lunch yesterday, saying that next time you are over our way we would go there for dinner.
A possible solution:-
Turn some collars bored to fit onto your dowel and glue in place to form a tenon on each end.

Any good?

Bob

 

[AndyP]

I’d like to keep the dowel rail as large, diameter, as possible for strength and rigidity. I was hoping for 1” diameter with a 5/8ths or 3/4” through tenon with perhaps a wedge.
If I were to add a collar I’d have to use a thinner dowel so as not to overlap the A’s crosspiece.

I was hoping to find a tenon cutter that cuts straight rather than sloping shoulders.

I’ll let you know about next visit, may not be before term starts in September.

 

[AndyT]

If you want to do that with a power tool, Chris Schwarz says you can use a large plug cutter:

https://blog.lostartpress.com/2022/03/0 ... eg-tenons/

But I'd mark round, saw down all round with a tenon saw to the required depth (maybe with a depth stop d/s taped to the saw) then pare in from the ends and finish with a rasp.

But is there a risk of people putting too much weight on a long dowel if they rest their feet on it?

Have you considered a pair of struts going up from each end, sloping up towards the underside of the table?

Or a nice metal bar?

 

[9fingers]

On second thought, I don't think a round dowel would look right.

I'd favour a curved topped spar slightly thinner than the bar of the A but following its curvature. A rectangular tenon on the end into a blind mortise in the A and pegged from below.

Bob

 

[Malc2098]

Just to throw a spanner in the works, I could imagine a slightly curved (reflecting the curve on the letters) brace starting in the middle of the 'A' cross bar and going up to the underside of the table.

My brain says that might look tasteful and in proportion with the letter ends.

You could get away with a square (oblong) mortise and tenon at each end of the brace.

 

[Malc2098]

Bob beat me to pressing 'send'!

 

[9fingers]

Bob beat me to pressing 'send'!

No Malc Your idea is different. Mine is a horizontal bar with curved cross section going end to end.

Yours is just a good though!

Bob

 

[AndyP]

Thanks Andy,
I’ve bookmarked that Schwarz blog and will give that a test using the plug cutter I have before scaling up.
The table is only a foot high so unlikely to have feet resting on the rail.

I have toyed with the idea of a stainless steel rod but not sure if it would meet design approval.

 

[AndyP]

Bob, your idea had crossed my mind too. Would take me an age to fabricate though. Making the convex curve along the top of the rail would be straight forward enough but the concave curve underneath :eusa-think:

Malc and Andy
I really think a rail would look neater than angled or even curved struts.
I’ll have to do a mock up when I get the top made and see how that looks.

It’s a shame that I have more time to think about this than actually getting on with it.

 

[AndyT]

Thanks Andy,
I’ve bookmarked that Schwarz blog and will give that a test using the plug cutter I have before scaling up.
The table is only a foot high so unlikely to have feet resting on the rail.

I have toyed with the idea of a stainless steel rod but not sure if it would meet design approval.

How had I missed the size! I must try harder

I stainless steel is out, oak and brass are a classic combination and you could probably get something suitable from a range of wardrobe fittings. Just a suggestion to extend your thinking...

 

[9fingers]

Bob, your idea had crossed my mind too. Would take me an age to fabricate though. Making the convex curve along the top of the rail would be straight forward enough but the concave curve underneath :eusa-think:

Malc and Andy
I really think a rail would look neater than angled or even curved struts.
I’ll have to do a mock up when I get the top made and see how that looks.

It’s a shame that I have more time to think about this than actually getting on with it.

Does not really need to be concave underneath. A couple of tablesaw passes at a few degrees to knock the sides off vertical just maybe?

Bob

 

[RogerS]

Spoke shave ?

 

[Woodbloke]

I reckon you ought to go full on Wegner and insert a 'V' wishbone in the middle:



The reason why is a brilliant idea is that you'd never, ever be short of Brownie points :lol: - Rob

 

[AndyP]

My furniture design ignorance forced me to look up Wegner whereupon I stumbled on his Wishbone Chairs and that gave me an idea, immediately dismissed. I don’t want to make a chair with a V&A back.

 

[AndyP]

Had a go at fashioning a stretcher.

I think this idea looks good. That is not the actual top just the glued up board ready to make the V&A legs from. Nor is that the finished length. Finished length will be about 80cm. Just mocked up to see what it looks like.



Thoughts and opinions welcomed.

 

[AndyT]

I think from the point of view of the dimensions and position it looks good and a practical answer for rigidity. But it looks as if it's rounded along the edges, which makes it look unrelated to the rest - maybe some stopped flat chamfers would look more Victorian and relate to the ends better, especially when you have chamfered/carved the edges of the letters.

 

[AndyP]

Andy, sorry I am not sure I follow what you have described . Could you possibly sketch a cross section of the stretcher you envisage.

 

[AndyT]

Andy, sorry I am not sure I follow what you have described . Could you possibly sketch a cross section of the stretcher you envisage.

This is a door, but clearer than any sketch I can do. I just mean simple flat chamfers on each side of the stretcher, not running right through to the ends but "stopped" at a chisel cut.

https://www.historicdoors.co.uk/a1225-v ... rettyPhoto

There are fancier options if you want them.

 

[AndyP]

D’oh :eusa-doh:
Sorry of course. I understand now.

What I was trying to do, or have in mind, was to shape the top & bottom of the stretcher to match the curve of the A’s cross piece like this in section.


You think stop chamfers on all 4 edges would look better than running that shape along the whole length? I can have a go at that next time.

 

[AndyT]

Ignore me!
Your idea looks much better.

 

[Malc2098]

Nice. I like that design. Where'd you get it?

 

[AndyP]

Ignore me!
Your idea looks much better.

I think it was Bob9F who first suggested it.

I currently have that mock up in the living room where I shall look at it for a few days in an attempt to imagine how the finished article will look.
Sometimes I wish I had the patience to learn 3D CAD.

 

[Malc2098]

Sometimes I wish I had the patience to learn 3D CAD.

Me, too!

 

[AndyP]

Nice. I like that design. Where'd you get it?

You will get full credit Malc, dont worry.
Have you tried cutting one your CNC yet

 

[Malc2098]

Nice. I like that design. Where'd you get it?

You will get full credit Malc, dont worry.
Have you tried cutting one your CNC yet

Not yet. I've got an issue with the controller, speaking with the manufacturers, although I can manually run the machine and it can run from a file. I topped that ith a test file. I've unconnected all the cables while I design and build the control box so I have free work board area. Previously all the electronic components were on the front of the work board.

 

[Pinch]

Looking very good Andy - top banana matey!

I know it's really time consuming, but the end result will be well worth the effort. I agree with Andy; a stopped chamfer would look very cool indeed - perhaps 30-50mm before the intersection junctions. It's all about making that clear entwined definition between the two letters.

:text-bravo:

 

[Pinch]

Great start Andy! Looks very good.

I totally agree with Roberto - a wee bit of relief carving is definitely the way to go matey!

In fact, with the size of your legs, you could quite comfortably do the work with a block plane, maybe a spokeshave and then some paring work with chisels - a bit like the plaque in you rather lovely settle. :eusa-whistle:



I know the above plaque was one-sided and is slightly different to your legs, but you could easily implement for both sides. Time consuming, but so worth the effort.

bscene-drinkingcheers:
Pinch, that is VERY beautiful, superb workmanship. Ian
:text-bravo:

Hey, thanks Ian!

I've only just seen your much appreciated compliment. Apologies for the delayed acknowledgement - cheers!

bscene-drinkingcheers:

 

[RogerS]

Andyp....you really should give yourself a huge pat on the back. This is a great project :eusa-clap:

 

[AndyP]

Thanks Pinch and Roger,
It is little more than a project though . I did manage to cut all the biscuit slots for the top last week but have yet to find the time to start the glue up. I’m also itching to start cutting the legs. I had ordered some walnut dowels but didn't make it to the UK to pick them up. All the dowel joints will be visible as per the settle and Paul has kindly shared his secret formula he used for the finish so there is a chance that the table and the settle will match….I say a chance.
Head gardener has had me on other tasks this weekend.

 

[AndyP]

A wee update to reassure myself that I am making progress.
Managed to glue up the first two boards for the top.

 

[AndyP]

In the time it takes some folks to put the best part of 7 doors together or cut the components for countless chairs I stuck 4 bits of wood together.



And I made a start on the legs, cutting out the bulk of the waste in the BS. Gotta unearth the Hegner now

 

[RogerS]

Don't beat yourself up, Andy...family comes first, mate ! Besides I haven't even started gluing one up yet

 

[Phil]

In the time it takes some folks to put the best part of 7 doors together or cut the components for countless chairs I stuck 4 bits of wood together.

It is called patient dedication ............

Interesting project, will look great when completed.

 

[AndyP]

Cheers Phil,
I am certainly dedicated to my patients

 

[AJB Temple]

Slow but steady Andy. It is never wise to finish any project as that is the route to being allocated more jobs.

I reckon you can easily drag this out for another year.

 

[Phil]

Cheers Phil,
I am certainly dedicated to my patients

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Patience my good man, patience

“Patience is a key element of success”

“Patience is a form of action”

“Patience is a conquering virtue”

 

[AndyT]

Your pace looks fine from over here