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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Jimmy Mack's 'Shop Build (photos & video)
- Thread starter Jimmy Mack
- Start date
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Thanks Chaps.
Typically it's lashing with rain today!
There's a bit of water seepage around the outside edges of one roof light...I suppose this is normal?
However, I'm going to have a go at trying to fix it with some membrane. I did damage the membrane in parts when cutting the opening and trimming the batts back flush - PAR for the course perhaps. I've been careful where I can but it seems inevitable that repairs to the membrane (little punctures) are required at points. Not sure what the recommended method is, but I've been smudging a dab of some 300deg flue pipe 'silly cone' I've got hanging about over any small wounds.
A note for others considering roof lights for the first time...
I was put off installing the roof lights early on (when dropping in the rafters) and In hindsight putting them in retrospectively has been a PITA and very much 'reverse engineering'. Plus: If I can offer a tip...don't make your rafter spacing for the lights a snug fit - allow a good 20-30 mm clearance for dropping in the roof lights. I had to trim a slight rebate into both the roof light frames :eusa-doh:
Dan. Are you going for fibre cement tiles too?
Reading through the Cembrit accessories brochure for info on my vented ridge tiles...and I read they recommend counter batterning on the roof... for air flow :eusa-doh: Not sure how vital this is,I hope not and I suspect it would of been nice, but clearly a loooong gone option for me :lol:
Typically it's lashing with rain today!
There's a bit of water seepage around the outside edges of one roof light...I suppose this is normal?
However, I'm going to have a go at trying to fix it with some membrane. I did damage the membrane in parts when cutting the opening and trimming the batts back flush - PAR for the course perhaps. I've been careful where I can but it seems inevitable that repairs to the membrane (little punctures) are required at points. Not sure what the recommended method is, but I've been smudging a dab of some 300deg flue pipe 'silly cone' I've got hanging about over any small wounds.
A note for others considering roof lights for the first time...
I was put off installing the roof lights early on (when dropping in the rafters) and In hindsight putting them in retrospectively has been a PITA and very much 'reverse engineering'. Plus: If I can offer a tip...don't make your rafter spacing for the lights a snug fit - allow a good 20-30 mm clearance for dropping in the roof lights. I had to trim a slight rebate into both the roof light frames :eusa-doh:
Dan. Are you going for fibre cement tiles too?
Reading through the Cembrit accessories brochure for info on my vented ridge tiles...and I read they recommend counter batterning on the roof... for air flow :eusa-doh: Not sure how vital this is,I hope not and I suspect it would of been nice, but clearly a loooong gone option for me :lol:
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Thanks Hully.Hully":zt9zavxr said:
Rainwater will run to a soak away in the middle of the lawn, about 5-8 meters away.
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Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
One pitch down...
Now onto the trickier side with the roof lights...
As promised some shots of the easy verge system...(a quick mention that the technical support chap at Permavent was really helpful at answering questions)
Junction detail where easy verge it's butted...
As well as nailing through from the top of the battern, I stapled too to tighten up the joint with the barge boards.
Roof lights...Like a plonker I'd not put a fall on the mini gutter that goes behind the tiles and above the roof lights, so diverting any membrane run off from the top of the window frames...spent some time messing with those yesterday, along with a failed fix of the washing machine...(inconsiderate life getting in the way of the shed build!)
The vented ridge tiles are a little steeper that the original 105 degree sample, here I offered one of the block ends up to get a feel for the finished detail.
Looks like I'm best trimming the top tiles to let it in a bit. I was advised by Cembrit that they are a dry fit, held in place with Sela screws...however there's a bit of a gap, the ridge tile edges are a wobbly! I may run a bead of silicone alone the top edge of the tiles inside to hopefully prevent any water back drafting in...belt and braces.
Now, after reading about the counter batten design, I've been a bit concerned about sufficient air flow getting from my eaves to my ridge, especially where my top batten is snug against my ridge beam. Using some rolled up DPC I've pushed open a bit of a gap...not sure how many cowboy points this is worth [emoji32] ( tilt your head left to get oriented with the pic)
I'd really welcome some feedback on the venting, I'm nervous about all my tiles warping...I do have 50mm behind my membrane, which connects to my over facia vents, but what about the other side of the membrane on the tile side, the batts restrict the flow? TBH I've not seen many roofers employing counter batterning...
Cheers Jim.
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Now onto the trickier side with the roof lights...
As promised some shots of the easy verge system...(a quick mention that the technical support chap at Permavent was really helpful at answering questions)
Junction detail where easy verge it's butted...
As well as nailing through from the top of the battern, I stapled too to tighten up the joint with the barge boards.
Roof lights...Like a plonker I'd not put a fall on the mini gutter that goes behind the tiles and above the roof lights, so diverting any membrane run off from the top of the window frames...spent some time messing with those yesterday, along with a failed fix of the washing machine...(inconsiderate life getting in the way of the shed build!)
The vented ridge tiles are a little steeper that the original 105 degree sample, here I offered one of the block ends up to get a feel for the finished detail.
Looks like I'm best trimming the top tiles to let it in a bit. I was advised by Cembrit that they are a dry fit, held in place with Sela screws...however there's a bit of a gap, the ridge tile edges are a wobbly! I may run a bead of silicone alone the top edge of the tiles inside to hopefully prevent any water back drafting in...belt and braces.
Now, after reading about the counter batten design, I've been a bit concerned about sufficient air flow getting from my eaves to my ridge, especially where my top batten is snug against my ridge beam. Using some rolled up DPC I've pushed open a bit of a gap...not sure how many cowboy points this is worth [emoji32] ( tilt your head left to get oriented with the pic)
I'd really welcome some feedback on the venting, I'm nervous about all my tiles warping...I do have 50mm behind my membrane, which connects to my over facia vents, but what about the other side of the membrane on the tile side, the batts restrict the flow? TBH I've not seen many roofers employing counter batterning...
Cheers Jim.
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Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
... Some further thought on the venting...should I have stopped my membrane at the ridge (rather than going over...or perhaps it would be better to trim, turn back and pin it to the back/ to edge of the top batten, exposing the ridge and releasing air from behind the membrane?
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Sorry Jimmy I missed this, last week before holiday is always a bit frantic!
I went for the authentic slate product. But whilst it was a great experience doing it, Im not sure Im happy with the finish. Hey-ho done now. Its just that they were not uniform, some even curved! Photos up now if you feel inclined.
Yours looks fine, I remember talking to someone about rooflights, they advised against them as they can be difficult to ensure watertightness. But the benefits re light are hard to argue against.
I know the membrane is supposed to have a "suggestion of sag" the immortal words of our mate from Leicester! So if you have a 50mm gap underneath and there is some sag the the air can get past on both sides. Your DPC rollies will achieve the suggestion of sag if its a bit tight.
I have posted photos of my ridge solution, really simple and rock solid. I know that the manual advises one to stop the membrane just short of the ridge so that air can flow up the rafters and out of the top. I didn't leave room to do this and forgot on one end of one side but ended up cutting slits in the membrane, in parts but think it will achieve the same thing? If you have room i would leave the membrane slightly short of the ridge if that is what your ridge system advises. Mine did.
Coming along now fella, have you chosen the colour scheme for the interior?
:eusa-dance:
I went for the authentic slate product. But whilst it was a great experience doing it, Im not sure Im happy with the finish. Hey-ho done now. Its just that they were not uniform, some even curved! Photos up now if you feel inclined.
Yours looks fine, I remember talking to someone about rooflights, they advised against them as they can be difficult to ensure watertightness. But the benefits re light are hard to argue against.
I know the membrane is supposed to have a "suggestion of sag" the immortal words of our mate from Leicester! So if you have a 50mm gap underneath and there is some sag the the air can get past on both sides. Your DPC rollies will achieve the suggestion of sag if its a bit tight.
I have posted photos of my ridge solution, really simple and rock solid. I know that the manual advises one to stop the membrane just short of the ridge so that air can flow up the rafters and out of the top. I didn't leave room to do this and forgot on one end of one side but ended up cutting slits in the membrane, in parts but think it will achieve the same thing? If you have room i would leave the membrane slightly short of the ridge if that is what your ridge system advises. Mine did.
Coming along now fella, have you chosen the colour scheme for the interior?
:eusa-dance:
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Some updates after FINALLY finishing the exterior. WHOOP!
Chatted to a local roofer, I think I should be good with just my 'suggestion of sag' (Dan, that phrase will live with me forever! [emoji85] ).
I must admit to be glad to be done with the roof, it does you in, when the sun is not baking you...it's lashing it down with rain! It rained so hard as I was putting the last couple of tiles in, that Swimbo came out to check I'd not been washed away! / deaded!.....I also feel it's PAR for the course to stick a boot through the membrane ( D'oh) I was two over PAR! [emoji30] some careful patching and we should be good (hopefully)...anyway photos, we all love photos [emoji106]
Stuck down a bit of a flappy tile (brick hold fast) ... round the window flashing I was unable to get the bottom rivets in.
Dry ridge with Sela screws and roofing caulk where they lap/meet...
Did I mention the RAIN?! ...I was 10 tiles short! Would you f'in believe it!? Out of 860 tiles...1.25 ton!...
So zipped back to my supplier. It was only when I returned that I realised they were the black grey finish and NOT the grey, traditional! I was past caring at this point...it'll give the birds something to aim for [emoji6]
The ridge tile with built-in block end detail is a little odd hanging out in front, but I'm fine with that. I made sure my top tiles met at the end of the ridge, so you see these when you look up. I could fashion a bung of sorts, but I'm sure it'll just create problems or fail in the future.
Guttering...this was enjoyable and straight forward [emoji3]
I put up 15m of guttering for my neighbour too, actually it's our house, but it's been running off into her back yard for years (before us)!
Some cabling begins...Run the cat 6 back to HQ and the lighting runs int & ext. Everything else is going in trunking
If you're still reading ...I have a question for the forum...
My OSB sub floor is suppose to finish level with the bricks at the doors (front & rear) so I can run my final floor 22mm Cabersheild over the brick, but the bricks are 18mm higher!
My best ideas are...
Pack up the OSB floor on 18mm firing strips on top of the joists (it's coming up to insulate, run cables, ducts, etc.)...
or...
Chop/ bash 18mm off the bricks (my gut says this will be a messy nightmare!) ?
Any thoughts?
Cheers Jim
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Chatted to a local roofer, I think I should be good with just my 'suggestion of sag' (Dan, that phrase will live with me forever! [emoji85] ).
I must admit to be glad to be done with the roof, it does you in, when the sun is not baking you...it's lashing it down with rain! It rained so hard as I was putting the last couple of tiles in, that Swimbo came out to check I'd not been washed away! / deaded!.....I also feel it's PAR for the course to stick a boot through the membrane ( D'oh) I was two over PAR! [emoji30] some careful patching and we should be good (hopefully)...anyway photos, we all love photos [emoji106]
Stuck down a bit of a flappy tile (brick hold fast) ... round the window flashing I was unable to get the bottom rivets in.
Dry ridge with Sela screws and roofing caulk where they lap/meet...
Did I mention the RAIN?! ...I was 10 tiles short! Would you f'in believe it!? Out of 860 tiles...1.25 ton!...
So zipped back to my supplier. It was only when I returned that I realised they were the black grey finish and NOT the grey, traditional! I was past caring at this point...it'll give the birds something to aim for [emoji6]
The ridge tile with built-in block end detail is a little odd hanging out in front, but I'm fine with that. I made sure my top tiles met at the end of the ridge, so you see these when you look up. I could fashion a bung of sorts, but I'm sure it'll just create problems or fail in the future.
Guttering...this was enjoyable and straight forward [emoji3]
I put up 15m of guttering for my neighbour too, actually it's our house, but it's been running off into her back yard for years (before us)!
Some cabling begins...Run the cat 6 back to HQ and the lighting runs int & ext. Everything else is going in trunking
If you're still reading ...I have a question for the forum...
My OSB sub floor is suppose to finish level with the bricks at the doors (front & rear) so I can run my final floor 22mm Cabersheild over the brick, but the bricks are 18mm higher!
My best ideas are...
Pack up the OSB floor on 18mm firing strips on top of the joists (it's coming up to insulate, run cables, ducts, etc.)...
or...
Chop/ bash 18mm off the bricks (my gut says this will be a messy nightmare!) ?
Any thoughts?
Cheers Jim
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Pinch
Old Oak
Great work Jim. I'm looking forward to seeing what comes out of your shop in the very near future 
Crispylettuce
New Shoots
Random question Jimmy - how much gap do you have between your shop and the boundaries?! Did you find it a struggle with little space?
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Not at all...Crispylettuce":34kklbvp said:
Ranges from 450-600mm...I thought it would be a problem but by the time I'd finished the framing I'd lost a stone! The low party stone walls were a bonus...ie hopping about on as a scaffold.
The main issue with being so close to the boundary are the building regs, especially concerning structural calcs and class O fire.
Jim
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Crispylettuce
New Shoots
Yeah. I'm trying to weigh up how close to build my shed to the boundary. Mine won't be as large as yours, so less of an issue with building control - but still to be considered!!Jimmy Mack":3pq7lw3u said:
A larger gap will surely end in wasted space, and can't think how it could become useable storage.
Tusses
Old Oak
I've often thought any "wasted" space between the building and boundary could be used for storing wood (or anything else).
is would need some kind of light shed like cover and walls if needed. Walls could be just fence panels. anything to keep the wet out. Would make the building warmer in the winter too
is would need some kind of light shed like cover and walls if needed. Walls could be just fence panels. anything to keep the wet out. Would make the building warmer in the winter too
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Sneaked a couple of days back on it... after a week or so on other projects...more wiring, insulation (a stage PASS from Buildings Control-woo!) And a start on the internal sheathing...with some foam gun action around the gaps...it's addictive!
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Wow, looking good there mate. :text-bravo:
Cheers
Mark
Cheers
Mark
DaveL
Old Oak
Yes very good progress. Get yourself some white paint and do the whole of the inside before you move lots of stuff in, it makes a big difference.
Malc2098
Sequoia
Jimmy,
Your question --
My OSB sub floor is suppose to finish level with the bricks at the doors (front & rear) so I can run my final floor 22mm Cabersheild over the brick, but the bricks are 18mm higher!
My BCO suggested that as I am proposing a suspended floor, he recommended a double skin for more rigidity and evening out any undulations. I am proposing to do that in my build.
But would that help with your level issue?
(He also suggested that one of his colleagues who makes rocking horses in a home build shop, skinned the joists both sides making it more rigid as well double skin the topside. not sure I'd go that far!)
Just a thought.
Malcolm
Your question --
My OSB sub floor is suppose to finish level with the bricks at the doors (front & rear) so I can run my final floor 22mm Cabersheild over the brick, but the bricks are 18mm higher!
My BCO suggested that as I am proposing a suspended floor, he recommended a double skin for more rigidity and evening out any undulations. I am proposing to do that in my build.
But would that help with your level issue?
(He also suggested that one of his colleagues who makes rocking horses in a home build shop, skinned the joists both sides making it more rigid as well double skin the topside. not sure I'd go that far!)
Just a thought.
Malcolm
ScotlandtheDave
New Shoots
Looks great JM and those pics just reinforce the size of the building! It is enormous. Incidentally is that ply sheathing? I don't want to imagine the bill for that lot. Was it a requirement for ply over OSB or just preference? Looks great either way
ScotlandtheDave
New Shoots
Jimmy Mack":18on0cvh said:
You're dead right there, went round and refoamed some of my exterior gals yesterday and it was great fun!
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Thanks Dave, the structural engineer spec'd 12.5 structural ply on the walls instead of OSB (only, there was confusion early on, see early posts!), it's stronger than the OSB (apparently) about a tenner a sheet (x28) and warped to bu88ery! But once nailed on they're good.ScotlandtheDave":2w0ibu1f said:
Cheers Jim
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Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
A double skin !...Wow n how? Essentially a torsion box and very strong...Sounds good but probably over kill, can't make it better than the house [emoji3] ...or can I? [emoji85]Malc2098":2x6e85fl said:
I am wondering if it is worth putting in some metal (herringbone) struts? If anyone thinks it's worth it?
I am as you say going to put another floor on top...22mm cabersheild and then perhaps add to the threshold as Mike suggests, just seems a lot to step over/through, so still scratching my head on that one. The second skin will almost be flush with my bricks so I could tart them up with some paint.
Jim
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Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
I'm very tempted to finish the ply, as it's looking tidy, I'll plod on with some plasterboard (12.5, taper edge) before ordering my (blue) paint [emoji41] . Plan is to clear out and try and spray it on with a turbine set up I have...I've only got a standard size gravity cup which might be a bit of a pain on the refills.DaveL":364ruf1w said:
Jim
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Looking cosy, and cavernous.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
I briefly mentioned this a couple of posts back...but... as I'm about to work on the floor...
And whilst I have the floor up...what do folks think about (metal) herringbone strutting? Might this add much to the stiffness of the floor?
(The 6.5m span is currently supported by a sleeper wall and blocked out at 3.25m and I've split the span again with some loose bricks at 1.6m either side (possible point to strut), the surface skin will be 18mm OSB + 22mm Cabersheild, coated chipboard)
Many thanks, Jim
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And whilst I have the floor up...what do folks think about (metal) herringbone strutting? Might this add much to the stiffness of the floor?
(The 6.5m span is currently supported by a sleeper wall and blocked out at 3.25m and I've split the span again with some loose bricks at 1.6m either side (possible point to strut), the surface skin will be 18mm OSB + 22mm Cabersheild, coated chipboard)
Many thanks, Jim
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Mike G
Petrified Pine
Strutting or blocking adds a surprising amount of stiffness to a floor. The metal stuff is quicker and easier to fix than doing it in timber, but more pricey (hence I always use timber :lol: ).
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Thanks Mike... do think a bit of give might be better on the knees? [emoji6]
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Tried to use the metal herringbone struts on my new build a few years ago. Did a small section with them but didn't really take to them. Found solid blocking made for a better job, any twists in joists were trued up. Never tried them again.
If ive got any noggins to do always ask at my friendly builders merchants for any reject of desired sized timber to obviously cut down to make perfectly good noggins - normally for the price of a packet of biscuits.
If ive got any noggins to do always ask at my friendly builders merchants for any reject of desired sized timber to obviously cut down to make perfectly good noggins - normally for the price of a packet of biscuits.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Today's shenanigans as I rework the floor. Garden netting (worked over the top) to stop the insulation falling through is a bit of a handful/ faff as it catches on everything and me! Pictured are also the metal h bone straps. The green stuff is a sticky backed closed foam joist tape to help absorb some of the acoustic noise from machine vibrations etc.
A ply tray to carry cabling across( in progress.)
Cheers Jim
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A ply tray to carry cabling across( in progress.)
Cheers Jim
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Wizard9999
Old Oak
This herringbone strutting chatter is interesting. Is the end result fundamentally different in engineering terms to timber noggins?
Terry.
Terry.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
The floor is strutted (does feel stiffer) ,insulated and back down. Some snaps of the cable tray and 8" ducting run with 6" reducers. I'll get a pic of the floor down soon, but not much different to before except for a couple of ducts sticking up.
Hopefully some plasterboarding (with help) next week, decorate and electrics....almost there
Jim
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Hopefully some plasterboarding (with help) next week, decorate and electrics....almost there
Jim
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Mike G
Petrified Pine
A couple of things occur to me about the idea of putting ducting under the floor. Firstly, you have to be pretty confident that your machine lay-out won't change. Secondly, you need to have a way of dealing with blockages. Neither of those is a big issue, really. There is also a theoretical possibility of having condensation within the pipes, as the warm air from the workshop hits the cold air outside. This would be more of a problem if the workshop was in use all day every day and was heated.
tracerman
Sapling
Jimmy - I agree with Mike G - as soon as I saw your pic of the underfloor ducting I was imagining a blockage scenario . If you did get a blockage you would need to "rod" it and would your suction be strong enough to shift solidified lumps if they rest in condensation and get stuck ? . Sorry to be a kill-joy .
Steve
Steve
Wizard9999
Old Oak
Another point on the ducting layout is the need to use what looks like a lot of 'T' junctions and 90 degree bends to make the underfloor layout work. This will reduce the efficiency of the system, so could increase the issues highlighted re blockages. However, it will make the shop look really uncluttered. I also have a sneaky feeling Jimmy will reveal he has an industrial blower of epic proportions mitigating any concerns :lol:
Terry.
Terry.
Even so a trap door of sorts in the floor may not be a bad idea.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Some good points chaps...
I umm'd & errr'd quite a bit about the ducting. Putting it under the floor IS a commitment, so the layout took lots of head scratching. Terry's spot on - bend's reduce the efficiency of the system and running it under the floor makes maintaining efficiency quite challenging. Ideally a straight, short run with run-offs on Y's (which are super expensive BTW ) would be ideal.
A big thing for me was having put all the effort into a vaulted ceiling I was reluctant to run a big ol' pipe across the room and spoil the feel of the room, so under the floor (especially getting the extraction to the centre where my Table Saw will live) was the compromise. I've an outlet on three of the walls where I can happily chop and change the 6' above - it is likely that the layout may change as we adjust to the space. I've changed my mind a few times already! :? I've tried to keep things as future proof as possible, such as the cable tray, surface mount sockets with conduits, string runs under the floor etc. The extractor will never move (I hope!).
In our city workshop I installed similar overhead ducting, 8' dropping down to 6" on the machines and in 5 years we've not had a single blockage, probably as the 8" pipe is huge (to maintain the air volume) and we have 1" weld mesh over some of the inlets (in case any big lumps fall into the machines). The system doesn't have any Y's and has a 5hp twin bagger (the same I plan to install)... This spec will happily suck the socks off a sausage at 100ft. Should a blockage occur I should be able to get in with a rod or I'll send the cat down - either way (above or below) a blockage would be an PITA without rodding points as you'd still have to disassemble some of the ducting.
Condensation as Mike mentions is a valid point, but as suggested I don't feel condensation is a necessary worry as the shop will be cold when I start and with so much air volume and movement any moisture (small amount - we're talking droplets) will be blasted away in an instant. I take comfort in that I never see lagging around external duct pipe work at Timber Merchants and Furniture Manufacturers where the collection systems and some of the pipes live outside (all tho it probably should have some lagging). The pipe is Galvanised too(GMS).
I hope that doesn't come across as know it all... :? Most of my knowledge is based on reading experience and what common sense I have (not a lot .. remember I went to 'Art School' :lol: ) so those in the know do feel free to flame me! It could be useful
Many thanks, Jim
I umm'd & errr'd quite a bit about the ducting. Putting it under the floor IS a commitment, so the layout took lots of head scratching. Terry's spot on - bend's reduce the efficiency of the system and running it under the floor makes maintaining efficiency quite challenging. Ideally a straight, short run with run-offs on Y's (which are super expensive BTW ) would be ideal.
A big thing for me was having put all the effort into a vaulted ceiling I was reluctant to run a big ol' pipe across the room and spoil the feel of the room, so under the floor (especially getting the extraction to the centre where my Table Saw will live) was the compromise. I've an outlet on three of the walls where I can happily chop and change the 6' above - it is likely that the layout may change as we adjust to the space. I've changed my mind a few times already! :? I've tried to keep things as future proof as possible, such as the cable tray, surface mount sockets with conduits, string runs under the floor etc. The extractor will never move (I hope!).
In our city workshop I installed similar overhead ducting, 8' dropping down to 6" on the machines and in 5 years we've not had a single blockage, probably as the 8" pipe is huge (to maintain the air volume) and we have 1" weld mesh over some of the inlets (in case any big lumps fall into the machines). The system doesn't have any Y's and has a 5hp twin bagger (the same I plan to install)... This spec will happily suck the socks off a sausage at 100ft. Should a blockage occur I should be able to get in with a rod or I'll send the cat down - either way (above or below) a blockage would be an PITA without rodding points as you'd still have to disassemble some of the ducting.
Condensation as Mike mentions is a valid point, but as suggested I don't feel condensation is a necessary worry as the shop will be cold when I start and with so much air volume and movement any moisture (small amount - we're talking droplets) will be blasted away in an instant. I take comfort in that I never see lagging around external duct pipe work at Timber Merchants and Furniture Manufacturers where the collection systems and some of the pipes live outside (all tho it probably should have some lagging). The pipe is Galvanised too(GMS).
I hope that doesn't come across as know it all... :? Most of my knowledge is based on reading experience and what common sense I have (not a lot .. remember I went to 'Art School' :lol: ) so those in the know do feel free to flame me! It could be useful
Many thanks, Jim
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
A pic of the floor down...the pipes remind me of 'whack a mole' ...
Chief rodder...
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Chief rodder...
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I saw the picture of the cat before your caption but instantly jumped to the same conclusion.
I'm not a great cat lover but this seems like something useful they could do. rather like small boys and chimneys! :lol: :lol:
Bob
I'm not a great cat lover but this seems like something useful they could do. rather like small boys and chimneys! :lol: :lol:
Bob
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Jimmy Mack":3bga1tn7 said:.....Chief rodder...
.......
You stuff it in with a long length of dowel, then pull it out with a cord attached to its tail, presumably. You need to get its feeding regime right, or it might turn out to be the wrong calibre. :lol: