Malcolm's Workbench (Fitting the vice)

[9fingers]

I think you might of misunderstood malc

The 50mm is the waste on the end of a run of dowel
So if I start with 600mm of 11mm sq stock, I'll get 550mm of usable dowel stock

Here are some I made earlier!



Bob

PS Don't forget your will need a 3/8 drill bit as the Veritas jigs are imperial only.

 

[Malc2098]

Thanks, Bob.

Yes, I realised I'd need an imperial bit or forstner.

G&S do a 150mm long 3/8" forstner.

I'm struggling to find long imperial drill bits.

 

[9fingers]

Thanks, Bob.

Yes, I realised I'd need an imperial bit or forstner.

G&S do a 150mm long 3/8" forstner.

I'm struggling to find long imperial drill bits.

Axi do 3/8" drills - you only need 85 mm plus a bit for the chuck should be within the scope of a standard drill length?

Bob

 

[Malc2098]

Thanks, Bob.

Yes, I realised I'd need an imperial bit or forstner.

G&S do a 150mm long 3/8" forstner.

I'm struggling to find long imperial drill bits.

Axi do 3/8" drills - you only need 85 mm plus a bit for the chuck should be within the scope of a standard drill length?

Bob

OK. Thanks.

 

[Phil]

Coming along nicely Malc.

 

[Malc2098]

Coming along nicely Malc.

Thanks, Phil.

 

[TrimTheKing]

How do these look Bob?

Longest one is 890x27x27, two shorter ones are 800x27x23. Is that enough total length for the job!

 

[9fingers]

The 27 x 27 will yield 4 blanks whereas the 23 dimension of the other pieces limits me to two blanks per piece

So either 1 off 27 x 27 or the 2 off 27 x 23 according to which you would rather keep.

When it comes to posting, the length might attract silly pricing so no problem if you want to cut in half.

Do you still have my address (SO515RS) or shall I pm it to you?

Bob

 

[Malc2098]

The grandchildren have spent a few days with us, so I've been absent from the creative annexe.

But today, inspired by chamfering elsewhere, I went bonkers with chamfers, but because of awkward shapes and sizes, I used the router.


I think it turned out nice.


Just before dinner, I finished a couple of stretchers with tenons ready for morticing the legs tomorrow.

 

[Malc2098]

This time, I decided to use the morticer to make the mortices.

First I had to take it off its height extension, then the legs were too wide for the clamp. So I took the clamp and the back edge off, and double sided taped a board to the table, referenced off the back of the table and was able to clamp the legs on to that.


These ended up much more consistently squarer than the others I cut in the feet and top rails.

The tenons needed fettling a bit because they are far too long for the blade on the TS with the tenoning jig, although I did start them off on that and finished on the bandsaw, which is where they got a little out of true.

But, in the end they fitted!

Ta da!


Now I need to decide what sort of wedges to use on the tenons; long thin ones going down through them, or wide fatter ones going in them horizontally? Your views would be appreciated.

 

[MY63]

Looks very good to me not that I know much but I have watched an entire YouTube of bench building videos

 

[AndyP]

They look a bit thin for vertical ones.

 

[Woodbloke]

They look a bit thin for vertical ones.

Dunno Andy, vertical ones are preferred as there's a longer wedging effect. I reckon from looking at the pics, that Malc could get away with a 10mm wedge or if that's too thick, an 8mm one - Rob

 

[9fingers]

Somebody once commented on the only wedged tenons that I'd ever done to the effect that the wedges should be at right angles to the grain of the mortice to avoid any tendency to split the grain.

Just my 2p

Bob

PS @ Malc: Mark is hoping to get the ABW for the dowels sorted out this weekend and on its way to me.

 

[Malc2098]

Thanks, Gents.

I could manage an 8mm wedge downwards, but the wedge will be running with the grain of the leg. I'll have a closer look and try some tests on scrap.

Bob, Mark,

Thanks. 'Scuse my ignorance, What's ABW? How much do I owe to whom?

 

[9fingers]

American black walnut

No charge from me Malc. A small measure of undying gratitude and notch on the favour slate is all lol
Bob

 

[Malc2098]

UG &N on the FP is done!!

STOP PRESS!!!!!!


How about SQUARE pegs?!!

[youtube]ApO3IENCjA4[/youtube]

 

[AndyP]

ABW = american black walnut Do keep up

 

[Malc2098]

ABW = american black walnut Do keep up

Now look 'ere!!

I've spent two careers full of abbreviations and acronyms. I can't help it if one or two slip through unnoticed, now can I?

 

[Woodbloke]

Somebody once commented on the only wedged tenons that I'd ever done to the effect that the wedges should be at right angles to the grain of the mortice to avoid any tendency to split the grain.

Bob

Correct Bob, but technically these are 'tusk' tenons which is a very different kettle of worms

Thanks, Gents.

I could manage an 8mm wedge downwards, but the wedge will be running with the grain of the leg. I'll have a closer look and try some tests on scrap.

Doesn't make any difference Malc. Look'ee here...



...and you can see that this is the sort of thing you're trying to achieve. Tusk tenons - Rob

 

[AndyP]

They look a bit thin for vertical ones.

Dunno Andy, vertical ones are preferred as there's a longer wedging effect. I reckon from looking at the pics, that Malc could get away with a 10mm wedge or if that's too thick, an 8mm one - Rob

I see makes perfect sense.

 

[Malc2098]

Wow! Ideas running around in my head like kids at a party!

I get the theory of a vertical wedge while in use and with movement, shrinkage etc, as the wedge loosens it can fall down in the evolving gap, but I also like the idea of lateral folding wedges, too.

Any takers on square pegs for the feet and top rail M&Ts instead of round pegs?

 

[RogerS]

Hw did that planing tip go, Malc ?

 

[Malc2098]

Hw did that planing tip go, Malc ?

They've been standing upright by the second (draughty) door of the workshop since I ripped them and planed the top of bow, so they're in an airy location.

After I've checked out the tusk tenons (I think I might have to ease them a bit more to cater for humidity increases, 'cos they're a bit tight now) and then got the tusk wedges sorted, I'll get them all back on the TS top and see if there's noticeable changes and report back.

 

[9fingers]

Somebody once commented on the only wedged tenons that I'd ever done to the effect that the wedges should be at right angles to the grain of the mortice to avoid any tendency to split the grain.

Bob

Correct Bob, but technically these are 'tusk' tenons which is a very different kettle of worms

Ah! I had wondered why they had been left so long! And I learned a new name "tusk tenon" for something I've done in the past.

Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

Wow! Ideas running around in my head like kids at a party!

I get the theory of a vertical wedge while in use and with movement, shrinkage etc, as the wedge loosens it can fall down in the evolving gap, but I also like the idea of lateral folding wedges, too.

Any takers on square pegs for the feet and top rail M&Ts instead of round pegs?

Those tusk tenons have been in that shelf unit for at least six or seven years and have never needed the attention of a tapometer to tighten them up. Once their tapped down firmly, they'll stay in place. I wouldn't bother with lateral folding wedges either as it only complicates matters, nor would I go with square pegs (in round 'oles ) There's no structural advantage and it makes everything more difficult to build.
Keep life simple (and heavy) with workbenches - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

So.....I milled four plus one extra blanks to make wedges from just over 3/8" thick from mahogany stock. I only have 3/8 and 1/4 hollow chisels for the mortice machine, so I used the 3/8.

I planed them all to only just over 3/8" and then stuck them all together with DST.

I then stuck their edges to a square block and offered them to the Kapex set at 5 degrees.

I was then able to cut the angle on them all exactly the same in one go. I saved the cut waste to provide the angle for the morticer.

I set up the morticer, using the angled offcuts to set up the stretcher's tenon at the right angle, cut that one. I returned the stretcher to horizontal and cut the rest of the mortice, and here is the first fitting, after a bit more planing of the wedge.


And after a little more fettling, trying it on the leg.

 

[Doug]

Good progress Malc :eusa-clap:

 

[Woodbloke]

Tusk tenons look good; aim to get them equidistant each side of the mortice when they're tapped home...just needs careful planing, a shaving at a time, then tap and test. Or chop off a bit from one end - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Tusk tenons look good; aim to get them equidistant each side of the mortice when they're tapped home...just needs careful planing, a shaving at a time, then tap and test. Or chop off a bit from one end - Rob

Thanks, rob. Off to do a bit of both! CUL8R!

 

[Malc2098]

Two down, two to go.

 

[Malc2098]

Four tusk tenons, their mortices and wedges done!



What do you reckon - round off the top and bottom outer corners of the wedges?

What about the tenons? Should I reduce their length and round their top and bottom corners?

 

[Malc2098]

BTW, I don't know why I should be surprised, but it's rock solid!

 

[Woodbloke]

Four tusk tenons, their mortices and wedges done!

What do you reckon - round off the top and bottom outer corners of the wedges?

What about the tenons? Should I reduce their length and round their top and bottom corners?

Yep, round over the outer corners of the wedges and take a chunk off the tenons; leave say, 40/50mm in front of the mortice. It's not crucial, just makes it look a bit tidier - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Like this?!

 

[Woodbloke]

Perfick and to finish off the tenons, a small chamfer round the ends would complete that part of the job - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Perfick and to finish off the tenons, a small chamfer round the ends would complete that part of the job - Rob

Already done.

 

[Malc2098]

The top strips seem to have remained quite curly, so in answer to everyone itching to find out if Roger's suggestion works, it didn't unless I did something wrong.






There's quite a lot of spring in two axes, so I think I will be losing some width and depth on the planer.

To be fair to the supplier, when I messaged about heartwood and curly planks, he delivered another couple of planks FOC.

 

[TrimTheKing]

All packaged up and ready to go in the morning. I had planned to send it today but trotted off to the post office to post this and collect a couple of things, only I left the house forgetting to pick this up! Clown!

It’ll be with Bob in a day or so. No recompense required mate, just remember me when you’re famous! [emoji1360]

 

[RogerS]

Perhaps it was my bad explanation. I wasn't suggesting that the bow would go completely. Just that it should be less and so you'd end up with thicker wood after prepping then if you'd tried to do it without the pre-release.