• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Mike's Workshop Build (Extension & slates)

Thanks bob. Yes the idea is to stop the kids via a padlock. I'll have a look at toolstation.

Thanks again

Pete
 
No photos, but I took a day out from my house build today to re-felt the workshop. It has stood too long with the old membrane exposed, and it leaked like a sieve during that storm last night. There was an inch of water on the floor this morning..........so everything out to dry, and then I popped the scaffold up, pulled the battens off, and put a new membrane on. I'll get the slates on in the next few weeks.
 
Mike G":3f0r6dbe said:
No photos, but I took a day out from my house build today to re-felt the workshop. It has stood too long with the old membrane exposed, and it leaked like a sieve during that storm last night. There was an inch of water on the floor this morning..........so everything out to dry, and then I popped the scaffold up, pulled the battens off, and put a new membrane on. I'll get the slates on in the next few weeks.
Click to expand...


Mike, Any Idea why the membrane has failed so quickly? Has it been attacked by the ultra violent light? I'm estimating that it can't have been on more than 9 months?

Bob
 
My initial thoughts, Bob, were along the lines of flapping in the wind had caused the nail-holes under the battens to open up a little. We also had a garden fire which emitted a few burning cinders with the smoke, so a couple of small pin-hole sized burns occurred. However, I had a really good go at it a week ago with silicon, repairing even the slightest damage, yet still it failed. So, I have got to assume that it has just been generally weakened by UV light. It certainly delaminated rather easily when I was handling it today.

The reason we use eaves carrier membranes is that breather roofing membranes are known to fail in UV light. Clearly, they fail in the manner of Formula 1 tyres....they're OK until they fall off a cliff, because only a month or so ago it was fine, with no sign of any leaks.

I left it up there, incidentally, just putting a layer over the top. This was more to do with the threatening nature of the weather today than any cunning scheme.
 
I suppose there is no formal requirement to make it UV resistant as it would normally be tiled within a few days/weeks under virtually all applications so they just don't bother.

I used some left over DPM to cover my modest stock of scaffold boards and within a few years that was rendered useless by UV -again no need for resistance when used as intended.

Bob
 
Mike - Great work with the workshop, you have inspired me to get my hands dirty and have a go! Its truly incredible what one can learn from reading these posts, keep up the good work.

Kind regards,

Dan
 
Thanks Dan. Don't forget your camera whilst you're getting your hands dirty! :)
 
Mike

In addition to having read this thread like a good novel, I also use it as a reference and often pop back steal (sorry research) ideas. Just struck me that I still don't recall the roof slates having gone on. Have you had time to break off from the house and do the roof?

Sorry if. I missed it elsewhere.

Terry.
 
Not yet Terry. I'm hoping to do it in the next few weeks.
 
Mike I just read the whole thread and really enjoyed it. I am planning a little extension and you have explained some things that were troubling my little brain
 
wallace":33rv8rsl said:
Mike I just read the whole thread and really enjoyed it. I am planning a little extension and you have explained some things that were troubling my little brain
Click to expand...

Presumably for that new sander Wallace :lol: .

Terry.
 
I've been having a good read through this and Wizard9999s threads for as much info as I can find to help me with my own workshop.

A great read! I shall have many questions no doubt!
 
Welcome Darren. Always happy to help with suggestions for a good workshop build.
 
Awesome thread! I'm in the process of planning my own shed/workshop (unfortunately I don't have the space for an exclusive workshop!), and found this thread at a good time! Think I need to re-read it though!!

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 
welcome to the forum Crispylettuce. When you have a mo drop a line into the Welcome board and tell us a little about yourself. What are you planning to do in the workshop?
 
For some while, the window in my workshop has been a niggle. Not the window itself, but the internal security shutter. The problem is that it comes down too low over my shelf of tools behind my bench, and fouls on them. Thus, my screwdrivers have never been put away properly in their rack, and I have to shut my drill-bit box every time I close the shutter. So I have had a window swap in mind for a while, and decided to actually do something about it a few days ago.

I had selected a suitable replacement window from the house:

hBD3BTN.png

I cut the extended cills off flush, and painted the sides:

3vCZk9U.png

This is the old one, looking a bit worse-for-wear:

QvaSlkq.png

Here is the inside, showing the drill bit lid leaning on the window frame, and my screwdrivers lying down out of the way. I also can't get to the rearmost chisels and punches when the shutter is closed:

ZFDEDVB.png

Here is the new window in:

SF4rvcZ.png

It's a small pity that it is narrower than the old one, but the height is much better.

I gained some wall space to hang up the Gents' saw and coping saw, but more importantly, the cut-down shutter now clears my tools with room to spare:

pfyBAyQ.png

PcS3rCy.png

I'll sort the boarding out on the outside when I do boarding on the house in the next few months.
 
Annoying that its narrower but understand why you've changed it. I do that sort of thing, make a good job of something then have to change it for some reason not too long after. And I never seem to be as happy with the result second time round :eusa-doh:

Any sign of the slates going on the roof?

Mark
 
Just a thought, would it have been easier to shove the window to the other side, then you would have shorter boards to replace, which you might be able to do with offcuts?

Mark
 
Yes, possibly, but it would have taken my view of the house away, so I wouldn't have been able to see anyone approaching the house or the workshop.
 
Hello Mike (or anyone else that would like to comment)

I'm proposing building a shed based on your original drawing (2010 - UK Workshop - Build a shed Mike's way) and have a question.

The 50 x 100 studs used for the frame. Are you using treated / Tanalised timber ?


Thanks

Chris
 
Chris Bates":3lero800 said:
Hello Mike (or anyone else that would like to comment)

I'm proposing building a shed based on your original drawing (2010 - UK Workshop - Build a shed Mike's way) and have a question.

The 50 x 100 studs used for the frame. Are you using treated / Tanalised timber ?


Thanks

Chris
Click to expand...

Hi Chris, and welcome to the forum.

Yes, pressure treated CLS timber, which finished about 45 x 95. It's actually quite difficult to buy un-treated construction grade 4x2s these days. Post your sketches etc and we'll have a look..........we like a good workshop build here. There are two more shed builds in my near-future, too.
 
Mike, even though your shop is less than two years old, it's really got that "lived in" look going.

How is the temporary roof holding out?

Kirk
 
It's OK, Kirk, but I need to slate it soon.

-

Whilst nothing much is happening on the house, I took the first steps towards extending the workshop. This is for an outside store area, to help with the clutter in the workshop, and to store the pile of wood that is sitting on the lawn outside (to the detriment of both the wood and the lawn):

MNgjTeW.png

n5deUxQ.png
 
Rod":2bbqcl5k said:
Clutter in a workshop that size?!
Click to expand...

I daren't post a photo. It's embarrassing.


Rod":2bbqcl5k said:
Ready for a concrete slab?
Click to expand...

Yep. I like to have a place ready for any concrete I have left over at the end of a big pour, which is happening on Friday.
 
Mike G":gahtbosw said:
Mike G":gahtbosw said:
Rod":gahtbosw said:
Clutter in a workshop that size?!
Click to expand...

I daren't post a photo. It's embarrassing.........
Click to expand...

Here you go. This is why I need a little extension.

zDd2mFR.png :oops:
Click to expand...


Thanks Mike, I feel so much better working in my 7' by 11' workshop after seeing this....I have got to the point where I have to pack up the tools after every single operation otherwise I get in my own way!
 
When I'm in woodworking mode, the place is absolutely ship-shape, with everything in its place. Now I'm building again, and working outside, stuff just gets put into the workshop to be safe for the night, and it ends up a tip like this. I hate it!
 
Hi Mike

Fantastic WIP!! Its been a huge source of info for me with my plans for my upcoming workshop build.

I was hoping to pick your brains on the insulation in the floor of your workshop. One of the pictures at the start of the thread shows 50mm of Kingspan and I was wondering from your experience if this is enough?

I'd planned on using 100mm of rockwool in the walls and roof and 100mm Celotex on the floor (over the top of a 200mm concrete slab) but I'm now wondering if the 100mm on the floor will be overkill as its not a lived in space.

I'm planning on heating the workshop but only to around 10 degrees to keep it dry and keep the chill out.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
Hi Hully, and welcome to the forum.

100mm of Celotex is more than is necessary for a centrally heated house, so is certainly overkill in a workshop. I don't have any insulation in my workshop floor at all. If you are going to do a floating floor, then 50mm is more than adequate.
 
Great, thanks Mike. 50mm it is then :-)

I'll hopefully be able to start contributing to the forum with my own thread in a few weeks once the ground works start!

Cheers
 
Hi Mike,

Thanks for a fantastic thread, which will be used (once I've got the funds together) to build the workshop I dream of!
Anyway in some small part I'm using your design for another purpose, and wanted to check a detail with you...

We've had a knockthrough done from our kitchen into the lean to. Eventually the lean to is going (next summer) but fir now I am putting a temporary wall back in place (where the patio doors are going once the loan to is gone) .

The wall is half built, I just want to double check something with you....

I want the wall to be weather proof, and am planning the following from in to out....
Plasterboard
Vapour barrier
4x2 and 100ml insulation
Tyvek house wrap
Batons
Cladding

Does this sound right?

Thanks a lot, Paul


Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk
 
Here's the construction so far, just sense checking before I go any further....

453c9db5d40486b5cff6848b9bf47563.jpg

c8e35007db3d0429d47f4420a1607792.jpg



Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk
 
Yep, that sounds right (although 100mm of mineral wool isn't enough to comply with Regs these days, but it will do for a temporary wall). Be careful of the detail at the edges........that's where damp (and insects) get in, and where heat gets out.
 
Mike G":2lmzybhs said:
Yep, that sounds right (although 100mm of mineral wool isn't enough to comply with Regs these days, but it will do for a temporary wall).
Click to expand...

Out of interest Mike what thickness of mineral wool would regs require? Or is it now so stringent that mineral wool just won't cut it and only something like Celotex will do?

Terry.
 
It isn't quite as simple as "this thickness complies". Different walls require different U values, and all the elements of the wall contribute to the U value calculation, not just the insulation. Having said all that, you'd probably struggle to get a wall with less than 150mm of mineral wool to comply.
 
Thanks Mike, I really appreciate having a sense check before I plough on.

Paul

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk
 
Mike - not urgent in any way. And if you have a moment and a moisture meter; may I ask that you measure moisture in your workshop. I'm surprised that mine hovers around the 70% mark. Im wondering if this is unusual or if my building behaves differently for any reason. I have yet to finalise windows and one of the doors so its not a finite assessment but it would be a useful parallel. :D
 
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