• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Return of the shed thread (a little more progress)

Chaps, one last question. Any suggestions on adhesive for glueing the chipboard flooring boards together? Ideally would like something that will fit in a gun to make application faster and easier. Also, really need something readily available at Wickes, B&Q, etc, as I want to get on with this at the weekend so don't want something rare I need to search high and low for. I've seen mention of "d4 adhesive" as this apparently also fills ny gaps as it foams up a little, but not really got any idea what it is.

Thanks as ever,
Terry.
 
The D series classification is about the degree of strength offered by the adhesive and says nothing about the chemistry of the adhesive. D4 is the most waterproof

Foaming adhesives are usually polyurethane based and have different open times from 5 to 30 mins. They are activated by water and usually one surface has to be moistened and gradually the joint exude foam "snots" which initially try to open the joint so mechanical fixing is necessary as well as working quite fast and "right first time" fits. you have to work away from the completed joints otherwise you will get in a terrible mess.
After about an hour or two you can use a blunt chisel to get rid of the foam excess.

Clean up of tools and you will need acetone and it will make you hand go black. working with gloves is awkward.

I think all polyurethane glues are waterproof so they are D4 rated BUT D4 does not mean it is polyurethane based.

You still want to use polyU????

I would suggest a PVA/EVA glue that is also D4 - Everbuild ones are good eg toolsatan 61864 or D3 31670 (keep any left over from freezing) which is a bit cheaper.

hth

Bob
 
OK, so this weekend was D Day for the floor in the workshop.

So, first job was a bit of tidying up and some sweeping.


You'll no doubt have spotted my slippers in the foreground. Not a style statement, but it was wet and I wanted to avoid getting the floor of the workshop wet by going back and forth and then trapping this moisture in the floor.

I decided to just move most of the clutter to one end and start laying the other end, rather than clear the whole lot out. Then I cut a sheet of damp proof membrane to cover the floor.


When I bought the floor insulation I have to cut it in half to get it into the car - I got some funny looks in B&Q on my hands and knees just beyond the till cutting the 8' x 4' sheets in half :lol: . It didn't cut that cleanly as I was trying to get it done quickly, but that did at least mean it was easy to work out which piece went with which when I cam to put it down.


I then started to cut the flooring boards themselves. I clamped the first two together as I wanted to trim the tongues off so I a had a solid edge at the start.


Having read some of Steve M's thread on UKW I had the benefit of all the retrospective tips he had been given. So tongues forward, which did indeed make things very easy when it cam to applying glue. Progress was pretty smooth. I used a block and a hammer to close the 'front to back' joints. When I got to the far side of each run of boards I used leverage to close all the 'side to side' joints.


By the end of day 1 I had managed just under half, not great but the morning and lunchtime was spent buying the insulation and a family visit to Costco (I know how to treat my kids).


At the start of this morning I used a (very) old chisel to scrap away the squeezed out glue, whilst the joints were already very tight the squeeze out completely sealed them, so no worries about trying to grout them I'm very pleased to say. I then moved all the clutter to the far end of the workshop so I could carry on laying the floor.


Then just cut, glue, lay repeat...


At the end I had to cut the last piece of insulation into three thin strips to fit, glad to say that with more time and being careful allowed me to get a much better edge on the insulation.


Now, the width of the workshop was almost perfect for one and a half lengths of flooring board, almost. As I worked along each row I had to steal a little more from the last board and by the end this was the cumulative result of this process.


Maybe it would have been possible to avoid this, but with the way I cut the boards this little section had to be filled with a small section T&G'ed to the preceding row, but butt jointed to the penultimate piece. I ensured plenty of glue on this joint and with the small piece tight in the corner and fully supported by the insulation I thin it should be OK once it has had time for the glue to dry fully.


Well I'm happy with the results of the last couple of days, just wondering now if I can manage to sneak enough time tomorrow morning to put a first coat of paint on the floor before we head to my sister and brother in law for a family Easter Sunday lunch. :eusa-think:

Terry.
 
with the cold nights Terry I'd give that pva 24 hours to fully cure before you paint it.
 
OK, Rob, lazy morning, so only just about to go and inspect. Will trim off the squeeze out. What you say makes sense, on reflection I recall yesterday when I trimmed the squeeze out it was still soft, so likely the same today. As it is nice out might try and get a few last pieces of feather edge up that I need to cut. Painting may have to wait until next week as we are out tomorrow.

Terry.
 
I'd come over and help if it weren't for family stuff. SWMBO and large have gone to church, I'm stuck in looking after small who is feeling altogether a bit sore after losing yesterday to A&E!

I might install him on a game then try some lathe time in fact. Then I'm doing a whopping family roast later on....crackling....yumm
 
Hope the crackling worked out Rob! We had a lovely roast at SWMBO's sister's place. As it was, by the time I had removed the glue squeeze out and done a bit of general fiddling around I achieved very little.

I may try and get to some floor painting in the week, tomorrow is out as we are out for the day. I do need to trim some of the OSB cladding on the wall so it is flush to the wall to allow for max expansion space of the floor if necessary. Now if only I knew somebody with a Fein multitool that could be used to do the trimming ;) .

Terry.
 
Wizard9999":jv42rzbj said:
..... Now if only I knew somebody with a Fein multitool that could be used to do the trimming ;) .

Terry.
Click to expand...

Treat yourself to one. You will wonder for evermore how you got by without having one. It is THE one DIY tool I could never be without.
 
You don't need to fork out for an expensive Fein (though they are well made) I have a much cheaper Bosch one which does the job.

Rod
 
Terry is referring to the one in my garage I think chaps :-)
 
When I painted the ply lining to my workshop the advice at the time was to use masonry paint instead of emulsion... so mine has 2 coats of wickes masonry paint. No idea if it is better than emulsion or not. It goes on pretty similar.
 
I painted my entire breeze block internals of my existing shop in 2 coats of bog standard white emulsion. Took 2 coats to get full coverage as the blocks are thirsty but worked fine.

Cheers
Mark
 
I use whit emulsion over OSB3 and had a lot of bleed though from some of the wood chips in the board . Even after 3 coats it look horrible and still does. Could just have been crap French paint.
 
Terry didn't ask if it would look nice, he just asked if he could do it...! ;)

Seriously I would just do it and see how it looks. All you're aiming for is a good white surface to give maximum light reflection so I'm sure it will be absolutely fine.

Cheers
Mark
 
Well, I'm going to look in the 'spare paint cupboard', if there is a reasonable amount of white emulsion I shall be seeing how crap a job I can do of it :lol: . If you want to see something funny involving paint in my workshop have a look here this evening when I'll upload the floor painting.

Terry.
 
100% agree with mark it will make the workshop appear much brighter with some white paint on the walls. In hindsight perhaps I could have sealed my OSB surge something before I painted. if you don't do it before all the workbenches, cupboards, benches and tools go in it will never get done.
 
I've got loads of trade white emulsion if you need any Terry.
 
Rob":1udljcnf said:
I've got loads of trade white emulsion if you need any Terry.
Click to expand...

May take you up on that Rob, cupboard here is looking a bit bare. At moment can't get in as second oat of paint on floor is still not fully dry. Using dry weekend to sow some grass, but a lot of prep needed first :( .

Terry.
 
yes....prep by killing cats first by the sounds of it :D
 
OK, so thought I'd gave you all a laugh, meant to post this yesterday but wasn't allowed on the computer by my children.

Bought myself some nice Leyland floor paint, Frigate grey which looked very nice in some pictures I saw online. Opened the tin and stirred and stirred and stirred and stirred... and it still looked like this



Well, I can't stir it any more I thought, so I started to apply it



(note the speed of my brushing meaning I am actually a blur in the picture)



Well I thought, maybe it just goes on this colour and changes colour when it dries.

I was painting in lines along each row of the flooring and was actually beginning to think I rather liked the blue colour. About three quarters of the way into the second row I put my brush into the tin and it broke through the blue into grey paint. I carried on, but it didn't exactly blend in



I carried on anyway and finished up the whole floor



It took a full 24 hours for the floor to dry as I kept the doors closed most of the time, otherwise the wind was just blowing blossom and leaves in onto the floor. Next afternoon I started with a second coat and was happy to see that it covered the section of blue perfectly well



By the time I'd finished I couldn't see where the blue had been and I'm hoping the photo shows that



I have to say I had a peak in the workshop this morning and I am really pleased with the finish the Leyland paint has given, nice coverage and a really good looking floor. I had thought about getting some of my 'kit' in once the floor was painted, which is why I did this first. But on reflection I think Andy is right, if I do that I may never end up painting the walls and as I don't have power yet there isn't much point. But that will have to wait a bit longer as I'm back out on the lawn (and / or hunting cats tomorrow).

Terry.
 
Looks good Terry.

DEFINITELY get those walls painted before you put anything in there!! And if you can, paint the ceiling white too as that makes a hell of a difference in reflecting light back down onto what you're working on, helping minimise shadowing and giving an all round better experience.

Cheers
Mark
 
Yep, good progress. Put down some dust sheets and let the kids loose painting the walls they will have it done in no time.
 
Ah, the old bi-coloured paint! It's traditional to paint it in stripes like the old stripy toothpaste :D

You'll find painting the OSB a bit frustrating. Get a nice furry roller (they're sold in good paintshops for painting rough surfaces such as stone, pebble-dashing etc), and don't be too prissy on the first coat. Get a long handled roller for the ceiling. It makes an amazing difference having the walls and ceiling painted.

I think you ought to organise a little Woodhaven get together in that shed of yours, Terry.
 
Rod":1vlu139s said:
Nice but I would have painted the areas above the floor first in case of splatter etc

Rod
Click to expand...

Yes Rod, I should have painted walls and ceiling first, but as I said I was thinking of getting some kit in hence rushing to do the floor. I'll be getting plenty of dust sheets down to try and keep the floor in A1 condition for a while.

Andy, kids will definitely be in there for painting. They have said they want a door each and will be painting their own choice of design :o

Terry.
 
I have continued to push on with what are really cosmetics in the workshop.

In the traditional way I have approached this build I ended up revisiting the sequence of things when I was half way through :oops: .

As you know I had already fitted most of my plug sockets before painting, but thanks to Rob :eusa-clap: I had some free white emulsion to start painting with. I started with my usual sense of urgency and decided to pain the ceiling and the bottom three quarters of the walls - I couldn't do the whole wall as I had not finished cladding the two walls made of two blocks with the inbuilt shelf. Having finished the first round of painting I decided this was a stupid idea so a day or so later I took the time to finish the cladding, then the following day cladding and went back and painted the remaining wall sections.

I know there was a lot of discussion above about what painted emulsion looks like and how to get a reasonable finish. I put on one coat of pain, partly with a roller and partly with a brush. The end result looks just like OSB that has been painted white :lol: . As far as I am concerned that is fine, I think on one of those TV design programmes somebody could go on about the honesty and integrity of the materials, but I prefer just to say, it's a workshop an the result is lighter walls that will reflect light better, job done. Not that my thinking is at all influenced by the fact I hate painting and can't face putting on another coat ;) .

The end result looks like this


Now some of you will be thinking that (in addition to the mess in the foreground :oops: ) there are a few boxes and a couple of strips of left over chipboard flooring forming a rather attractive art installation in the workshop. Alas Tracey Emin is not a personal friend and has not gifted us a multi-million pound piece of art, this is in fact an almost perfect representation of my tablesaw (perfect in terms of floor area, but a bit higher than the actual thing) for planning purposes. I put this in place in order to fine tune where to install a 16amp socket for the tablesaw.

This brings me on to a request for some help. I'm fitting the electrics myself as far as the consumer unit anyway, I will get them signed off and I want to make sure I am doing it right, and even more importantly I don't want to kill myself. I went out today and bought a couple of 16amp sockets to fit. My plan I to fit two so I have one ofn each side of the workshop for flexibility / for a planer thicknesser at a future date. Whilst I ran the 13amp sockets as a ring, I believe the advice was to run each of the 16amp sockets separately from the consumer unit. All good so far and I think I have it in hand. However, the 16amp socket looks like this


My 13amp sockets are mounted in pattress boxes, but this is a different size altogether so doesn't fit one. My first thought was to cut a circular whole in the OSB and slot the red section into the wall cavity, but on reflection this means the wiring will be nestled into the insulation which surely must be a fire risk (I remember having fire hoods fitted to downlighters for a similar reason). The alternative is for me to knock-up a wooden frame deep enough to act in the way the 13amp pattress boxes do.

So chaps can somebody who knows what will pass a Part P inspection tell me how to fit the 16amp sockets?

Thanks in advance.

Terry.
 
You know I'd be inclined to flush fit that directly on the OSB. I'd do that for two reasons:

1) It will stick out into the shop less and those things are bulky as I know from my Startrite P/T
2) You wont need to go to all the faff of replacing it.

If it were me and I was dead set on retaining the surface mounted cabling I'd counterbore the OSB (obviously avoiding any studs) and then drill a cable sized hole just above to thread the cable back out and tack it onto the outside like the other regular sockets. If you're really worried about heat just pare away the rockwool behind the hole you drill. But I thought rockwool was pretty fire retardant. In fact to be honest I always thought Rockwool was resistant to temperatures in the 1000 degree region but I might be remembering that wrong.

Personally, I wouldn't surface mount the cable because it just means when you inevitably want to put shelves or a cupboard there....you have to do cutouts. I would thread it behind the OSB in the cavity and ensure its fixed in a dead straight line vertically from the centre of the plug so though invisible, like house cabling, you know where it is to avoid puncture with fixings later. I think the fire risk is a red herring but maybe you should double check the specific technical spec of the product you actually used.

The other good reason is that you've clad your walls in a material that's bloody good for putting fixings directly into it....OSB. It seems a shame to me to not take advantage of that excellent design feature to make your life easier.
 
Incidentally, when we built my house in 2007, we obviously cabled everywhere and the twin n earth is running inside, next to, on top of rockwool all over the place. That's where I got the fire risk thinking from.
 
Just to throw another view into the pot....

The wall mounted sockets angle the outlet downwards - possibly at about 30 degrees from vertical which means the combined plug and socket arrangement will project less into the workshop than the socket Terry showed mounted direct on the OSB when fitted with a plug & cable.

There is only a minuscule difference in cable rating when run in insulation compared to free air. The confusion introduced with the downlighter comment is irrelevant. The fire risk with those comes from the huge amount of heat from the lamps not the wiring.


Edit: Just measured mine at 15 degrees and the greatest offset from the wall of cable, socket & plug is 95mm
hth

Bob
 
OK, to clarify. The cables are already in and surface mounted, I had anticipated cut outs for any shelves and have already 'booked' any resulting effort involved. Projection is not an really an issue given where the socket will be located.

So I can narrow this down to a very simple question: if I recess the socket pictured above into the wall cavity which is stuffed full of rockwool insulation is it Part P complient?

Terry.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top