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Malcolm's Workbench (Fitting the vice)

Malc2098

Sequoia
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Location
Tiverton
Name
Malcolm
Yesterday I eventually made contact with the farmer whole also farms timber crops as well as stock.

He took me to the large Dutch barn where much of his milled timer had been stored and I chose 4 x 2m (10"" x 2") lengths of English Ash which he reckoned he felled and milled well over two years ago.IMG_2604.JPG
Blimey, they were heavy getting them off the roof rack.

I'm not doing a large bench and I haven't finished deciding on its design yet, but I decided to rip enough to make the bench top. I'm going for 1m x 0.5m.
IMG_2605.JPG
So I halved each length.
IMG_2607.JPG

You can see that It sprung quite well coming of the saw. I would like advice as to whether I should leave it in the 'shop for a couple of weeks to acclimatise or to carry on with the milling and gluing for the top.

I also have to mill the legs etc, so should I also let them acclimatise, too, or just crack on and straighten each length straight away?

He's also quoting me for my cutting list for the intersecting roof to the workshop over the deck. It'll be a fir off his farm, Douglas Fir, I think.

I think I got a good deal, and 5 miles away. A local supply at last.
 
The wood has possibly moved all it is going to do due to releasing stresses in the timber by cutting but you have two new faces exposed to the air and so there could be a bit of drying movement to come.

If I get the choice I might leave timber a few days between cutting and planing but then again if I'm in a hurry or don't have a fill in job, I get straight on with the job.

Bob
 
As this is re-sawn, I'd leave it a week or two. You could be getting on with the legs and so on in the meantime.
 
Mike G":2qzycfrx said:
As this is re-sawn, I'd leave it a week or two. You could be getting on with the legs and so on in the meantime.
Yep :text-+1: Let it do it's own thing - Rob
 
A trick that David Charlesworth recommends is to shave a bit off where arrowed and then leave it to settle for a few days. It seems counterintuitive but trust me, it does work !

wood bend.png
 
Malc why have you gone for a laminated top rather than solid core? For example several layers of MDF with perhaps a sacrificial top layer?
 
Thanks, Gents, for your advice.

Roger, I'll find the bendiest one and give that a try.

Andy, I wanted a traditional-ish type of bench, albeit, small, and I wanted it with mass. I was practising cutting waste with a chisel the other day and the work was virtually bouncing on my temporary bench. I also wanted to use either reclaimed timber or very locally grown timber to try and reduce the carbon footprint, and provide a little income for local businesses. And, and, and...... for much of my fitting out of the 'shop,I've been using man made boards, and I wanted to work with wood.
 
9fingers":jv72t164 said:
9fingers":jv72t164 said:
If he is generally selling to woodworkers rather than a special favour for you, I could add him to the timber suppliers map if you can give me a postcode and business name.

Bob

Did you spot this in amongst the thread?

Bob

Yes. I've sent a message to him asking if he would like me to add his business name and postcode. I know he has supplied other local woodworkers. His business partner has asked if he can join the forum. As well as working on the farm, he makes garden wood stores etc.
 
Malc2098":1f1a8yyg said:
Andy, I wanted a traditional-ish type of bench, albeit, small, and I wanted it with mass. I was practising cutting waste with a chisel the other day and the work was virtually bouncing on my temporary bench. I also wanted to use either reclaimed timber or very locally grown timber to try and reduce the carbon footprint, and provide a little income for local businesses. And, and, and...... for much of my fitting out of the 'shop,I've been using man made boards, and I wanted to work with wood.

Can’t argue with that Malc. I am sure you will make a good job of it amd I look forward to watching it progress.
 
Here's me sorting the bowed lengths to try Roger's tip.
IMG_2614.JPG

And here's the top of the bow with a bit shaved off like Roger said.
IMG_2615.JPG

And if it doesn't work, roger, I'll be up the A1 like a butcher's dog!! :D
 
9fingers":6p14zpip said:
What is the theory behind that process?

Bob

I've no idea. Like Roger said, It seem counterintuitive. You'll have to ask him!
 
Well, while the strips for the bench top are deciding which way they're going to spring, I started on the leg ends.

First some laminating to make big heavy feet.IMG_2616.JPG

Then the marking out to decide on the shape etc of the feet.

You might, by this time, have sensed that I've not made a drawing for this project.IMG_2619.JPG
Some of you may remember that I bought a S/H mortiser. Some of you said you never used the ones you bought and did your mortices by boring and chiselling. So I had a go.

This shows the practice piece followed by the top rails bored.IMG_2630.JPG

And have you spotted the little holes in the ash. Should I be worried? I've let the supplier know.

It's lovely to work, by the way.
 
All the mortices for the feet and top rails squared up with chisels and elbow grease. (I think I'd rather have used the mortiser!)
IMG_2634.JPG

Test piece with the tenon cut with the aid of the tenoning jig.
IMG_2635.JPG

Seems to fit OK.
IMG_2636.JPG
 
Lovely. If you want to test the fit of the tenon then cover the tenon in pencil and fit it a couple of times, then remove and check the mortice. Pencil should be transferred to the inside of the mortice and you'll get a good view of whether the fit is perfect or needs fettling...
 
TrimTheKing":1kp32t5f said:
Lovely. If you want to test the fit of the tenon then cover the tenon in pencil and fit it a couple of times, then remove and check the mortice. Pencil should be transferred to the inside of the mortice and you'll get a good view of whether the fit is perfect or needs fettling...


:text-goodpost:
 
Andyp":1j55ts92 said:
I’d love to see those joints pegged with a contrasting timber.


Been thinking about that. Might have to send off for some dark coloured dowell.
 
Malc2098":zjlb6f3d said:
Can anyone recommend any good hardwood dowel suppliers?

Yep, this place. Fantastic range of sizes and materials...I went there a couple of times when we were visiting No.1 daughter in Carlisle - Rob
 
Woodbloke":ku5xk9br said:
Malc2098":ku5xk9br said:
Can anyone recommend any good hardwood dowel suppliers?

Yep, this place. Fantastic range of sizes and materials...I went there a couple of times when we were visiting No.1 daughter in Carlisle - Rob



Thanks!
 
First tenons, yay!

They only needed a little fettling.

I chamfered the four ends of the tenon a little.

I chamfered the four edges of the tenons a little.

I used the block plane, I don't have a shoulder plane, to just remove a hair from the sides of the tenons.

And they went in.

They're not perfect. I've got to improve my marking out process. But the mitre gauge and the tenoning jig got me very close. I've got to get closer still.

But I'm pleased with my first attempt.
IMG_2637.JPG
 
9fingers":3i4hktbd said:
Malc2098":3i4hktbd said:
Can anyone recommend any good hardwood dowel suppliers?

I've one of those Veritas "pencil sharpener" type dowel makers for 3/8".

I could make you some if you like Malc?

Bob

And I've got loads of scraps of ABW I could send to Bob to make them from if you wanted real contrast...
 
TrimTheKing":195jqeok said:
9fingers":195jqeok said:
Malc2098":195jqeok said:
Can anyone recommend any good hardwood dowel suppliers?

I've one of those Veritas "pencil sharpener" type dowel makers for 3/8".

I could make you some if you like Malc?

Bob

And I've got loads of scraps of ABW I could send to Bob to make them from if you wanted real contrast...


Sounds like a plan!! I'd like a pair of dwells per joint = 16 plus a couple of spares, I think.

I'm also thinking of wedging the stretchers between these legs so no joints get glued.

How much do I owe to whom?
 
And.......I experimented with the tenoning jig. It's micro-adjust is amazing!
 
Sounds like a plan!! I'd like a pair of dowels per joint = 16 plus a couple of spares, I think.

I'm also thinking of wedging the stretchers between these legs so no joints get glued.

How much do I owe to whom?[/quote]

Each length has about 50 mm waste so it is best to make several in each length

So how long do you need them Malc?

Mark. Whatever stock you have I'll need to cut to 11 mm square lengths with 3 mm waste per cut in each axis so when Malc replies you should get some idea of how much timber to send.

Bob
 
I'll get the exact measurements in the morning.

In the meantime............

IMG_2639.JPG
 
Malc2098":3pqfz0k6 said:
9fingers":3pqfz0k6 said:
What is the theory behind that process?

Bob

I've no idea. Like Roger said, It seem counterintuitive. You'll have to ask him!

Can't recall..it was in his book. Book location currently unknown. Still in packing box 'N' where which one is 'N' is unknown !

G&S are very good. Mentioned them few times already here. Rob...is she still in Carlisle ?
 
RogerS":kw2a5t0h said:
Rob...is she still in Carlisle ?
Yep, still in Carlisle but about to undertake a part-time PhD at the University of York. Glad there's one clever bugger in the family :lol: - Rob
 
Morning, Bob.

The feet are 85mm which and the top rails are 60 mm thick.
 
9fingers":xuneao9m said:
Malc2098":xuneao9m said:
Morning, Bob.

The feet are 85mm which and the top rails are 60 mm thick.


So about 1.5 m should be plenty then?

Over to you mr T

Bob


85+50=135 x 8= 1080
60+50=110 x 8= 880

1080+880= 1960

round up to 2m?
 
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